762. My new least favorite number. This is the number of curves on the road between Chiang Mai and Pai. Having a normally strong stomach, I didn’t think anything of the motion sickness warnings. Then being put all the way in the back of the van, where the AC couldn’t reach me, I realized my arrogance. All movie watching and music listening had to be stopped. All of my mental strength needed to be used to keep my head and stomach from exploding. Luckily, at the halfway point, Ryan and I switched seats. He went in the back to get sick and I got his shotgun spot. The downside being that I got to watch how recklessly the van driver flew around these curves, filled with other vans and defenseless scooters, void of guard rails. I guess I would choose that fate over the sickness though. Three hours later, we were temporary residents of the little, hippy, mountain town of Pai.

We made it to our hostel, Common Grounds. Immediately welcomed with hellos, we stepped into an open area. Pool table, bar, floor cushions, hammocks, and of course, hostel dogs. We ask if there is any pie in Pai and we’re show a hand tattoo of pie, but told otherwise there is no pie (this isn’t a lie, we checked everywhere). We were led to our room, nice AC and big beds, score. With the promise of a fire show, we head out with the group for a bar crawl. Two of the dogs led the way and we were told they always lead the bar crawl, assured to get their share of street snacks and head scratches. We make it to a bar street and realize there is no necessity to speak Thai here. Almost everything in English, the only Thai people being the actual shop and restaurant workers. We have a few drinks and chat with the others. We are ready for a fire show. When we ask when it is, we find out everyone decided to abandon it and didn’t tell us. The next one is Sunday…the day after we leave.

The second day was the day we decided to learn to scoot. Scooters are everywhere in Thailand and especially in Pai. Everyone also drives like they have a deathwish and a deadline, so our desire to ride was low. Scooting is pretty practical in Pai and once outside of the main town, it is open roads. We grab three scooters and after about thirty minutes of anxiety ridden swerving around, we all have it down. We take the scooters to the Big Buddha on the hill. A good number of stairs and we are treated to a giant Buddha you can see from everywhere in Pai and a beautiful view of the rest of Pai.

Next, we took the scooters to Pai Canyon. We hiked around from a few hours and scrambled up the harder paths. After a while, we found a nicer area, less populated with tourists and relaxed for the sunset.

We used the next day to relax and make some plans for the following day. We found out that the storm Pubak was supposed to come from the south and hit Chiang Mai and Pai. Not wanting to take that bus trip back and agreeing that we would rather sit around Pai than Chiang Mai if trapped in the rain, we booked two more nights. This also meant we could hit a fire show.

The following day, we took another swing at scooters. Quick stop at the ATM and realize my ATM card is gone. Awesome. Call Charles Schwab, realize I don’t know how addresses work in Thailand and scramble to figure out where we are staying next so I can send my card. Handled, scooter time.

First, we hit The Land Split. This is a farm that falls along some fault lines. Back in 2008, the farm was split at the line, destroying the farm and again in 2011. The farmer now uses it as an attraction and does a small amount of farming. He provides roselle juice (hibiscus), potatoes, banana chips, peanuts and papaya for free and just asks for donations. Luckily, this is right up Ryan’s alley, so he got a good amount of money from us. Delicious snacks down, we strolled around and saw the land split. Promising to stop by on the way back, we head off.

Next, we head off to Pombak waterfalls. Some more climbing and we are there. Icy water and all. Not much else to see. Grab a quick pic and off to the Bamboo Bridge. The bridge is located on a rice farm and there is over a mile of bridge. They add in some touristy picture spots when the rice isn’t growing, but we still thought it was nice. Nearing the end of the bridge, there is a large field filled with cows. At the end, there is a beautiful temple. Hunger strikes, time to head off. We head home and realize it is Sunday, fire show time.

The fire shows take place at the Pai Paradise bar which is connected to the Pai Backpackers Paradise Hostel. As you enter, it looks a bit like a dystopian rave. Crazy bright paints lit by blacklights surround the bar, with pool tables and pong tables. A big open area stands between the bar and the stage area with seating. The bar here offers its more adventurous patrons “Happy” shakes, filled with psilocybin. The open area is where the fire show took place. A hooded figure sprinted around the area, pouring something on the ground. A match is dropped and the area becomes a fiery peace symbol. Five or six people step into the now fireless area and begin spinning fire poi. After these people finish up, another five or six people step in with other fire toys. After these, a girl stands alone with a staff with three flames on each side and begins performing. Back to five or six people and then back to a solo girl using a fire hula hoop to the song “I Miss You” by Blink 182. The big group comes back. “Dang!” comes on, rest in peace, more fire. The original hooded figure does a solo routine using every type of fire toy we have seen so far. The whole group steps out and bows. We assume the show is over, but people continue to do fire tricks for another hour or so.

At the staging area, a couple begins a beat box show. The man is creating noises similar to an EDM show, with the bass to match, and the girl’s high pitched singing matched it perfectly. This continued for about an hour, as the songs got faster and more complex. A hearfelt goodbye and a request to spread love and they were gone. A long walk home and it was time to end this long day.

Another day of hanging out in Pai assuming there would be rain and there wasn’t. We booked two extra days to dodge rain that never came. We decided we were beat and decided to check out “Black Mirror: Bandersnatch”. Ryan and I, both having years of being video game completionists, saw all of the endings in about two hours. Final day in Pai over.

On our very last day, it was finally raining. Funny joke, sky. We now get to do this curvy ride back to Chiang Mai in the rain. We trade hugs and instagram handles with hostel friends, pet the dogs goodbye and we’re off. Back to Chiang Mai