Category Archives: Transportation

The End of an Era: March 21st – April 6th

For starters, this post will be considerably longer than the past ones. This post will cover over two weeks, as opposed to the usual one week. The reasons for this are that the last two weeks have been extremely time consuming, I was trying to truely enjoy each moment I had left on Koh Phangan and with the yoga course being a routine, I will do a separate post for that all together. For the reason of enjoying each moment, my phone didn’t come out very often, so pictures will also be limited unfortunately. If I can find the time, I will continue to do weekly posts before the end of the yoga course, covering some topics I have been meaning to write on (and feel free to suggest some topics/questions you want to be enlightened on since I have been traveling so much). So let’s start where we left off.

Old Friends, New Levels

Ryan and I made our way back to our beloved Koh Phangan (the island from the second Thailand tournament), decidedly one of our favorite destinations from the whole trip. Our taxi to flight to flight to bus to ferry all went very smoothly and just about on time as we imagined. The ferry ride to Koh Phangan from Surat Thani took us into the night, so we got a really cool view of the blood moon, which looked gigantic over the island of Koh Phangan. One of my favorite things about how beautiful stars and the moon are is that it is difficult to get a picture to capture that, which I think just adds to the experience. We arrived to the island and received some inflated taxi prices, but we aren’t new here. We walked away and demanded a price we knew was far. The songthaew driver followed, because he has to drive far either way, so he might as well take any more money he can get. He quietly agreed to our lower price on the condition that we do not tell the other passengers what we paid. Score. We head to Haad Rin, back to SK Guesthouse where we stayed the previous month. A friend from the previous month grabbed us a three bed room for one thousand baht, or thirty three American dollars per night(Thanks, Martin!). Three beds, you ask? Surprise guest from Cleveland, Aaron Tenhuisen.

Aaron and I met playing each other at NEO and when Ryan got hurt, we played a bit together. During a tournament, I mentioned this trip and he mentioned that he was going to travel through Patagonia and India. We also discussed similar views on getting better at volleyball. So when we found training with Olympians in a cool destination, I naturally shot him a message to let him know the option was there if he had the vacation days. We arrived and greeted Aaron, who had already checked into the room. We hit up some favorite dinner spots and got some sleep.

The following day, we went and peppered on the beach and then headed over to Tommy’s, where the camp would take place. We got an early jump on meeting some other camp attendees and got back to moving in the sand after a month on the motorbikes. We had the luxury of knowing the island and some of the people already, so we gave Aaron the run down on where to go and what to watch out for.

How Do You Get to Carnegie Hall? Practice.

Players from all over the world showed up to learn

The camp started with an introduction to the team running BeachBox Camps. Amongst some other players from Latvia facilitating BeachBox Camps, the coaches were Latvian Olympian Aleksandr “The Lion King” Samoilovs, Canadian Olympian (and now attempting to represent America in 2020) Chaim Schalk, Latvian professional and brother of Samoilovs Olympic partner Toms Smedins, and Russian professional Elena Ponomarev. After a brief introduction, we were split into groups and set off to play sideout. Essentially, you are matched with another person, and you serve to the defending team. If the serving team gets the point, they move to the defending side. If the defending team gets the point, they get a point. Every time you were removed from the court, you would grab a new partner. Ryan and I were on the same net with Aaron on another. I felt fresh and played out of my mind, but not well enough to get moved up a group. The coaches were watching our games and adjusting the groups. At the end, we found we were placed in the second group, with group one being a bit higher level than us.

With about fifty attendees, the coaches did a pretty good job setting the groups from such a short sample size. The only blaring mistake was Aaron, he was placed in the last group. It could have been because it was his first experience with the international ball or the coaches just never saw him doing anything spectacular when they looked. Either way, we told him it would get sorted out. After the trials, we set out on a hike as a group.

The view from the first day camp hike

Normally, I avoid things like hiking when I know I am about to play a lot. Forcing the muscles I am going to require a lot of power from to show off their endurance skills beforehand is usually not the best combination. Either way, we hiked up one of the smaller mountain paths near Haad Rin and got a cool view of the coast. We even had some local dogs accompany us some of the way. After that, we headed through the city to the southern part to check out the sunset beach. After seeing the makeshift pier, we walked along a boardwalk to a small lighthouse. From there, we head up another large hill to a hotel bar, which included an infinity pool overlooking Haad Rin beach. A quick cool off in the pool (having a bunch of sweaty volleyball players around probably ruined some girl’s nice infinity pool Insta pic, sorry!) and then we headed down the rocks back to the beach. Some lunch and then off to the first day of practice.

Anyone who has played with me knows I prefer consistency. I always bump set to eliminate doubles and to keep things consistent. For training, I figured what better way to learn clean hand sets than to exclusively do them. The first practice was a lot of passing drills with Chaim Schalk. Luckily for me, Chaim’s coaching style is in line with my learning style. My hands had been pretty consistently clean, but hitting the desired location on weird passes was an issue. A few mental cues from Chaim and I was hitting all my hand sets. Day one of training over and we were off for some dinner and to relax.

I’m not very tall, but Toms and Chaim definitely tower over me

After the first day of training, the coaches realized they made a mistake putting Aaron in the last group, so we suggested he be put in ours. The second day of training started at 9:30am, which meant the sun was pounding down on us. Unfortunately, the motorbike trip didn’t keep my nutrition and hydration up to my usual standards. It was hot, I was dehydrated and we were running line to line defensive drills. This training was with Samoilovs and I had no intention of giving up during his training. A little over halfway through, we were doing defense drills followed by hitting. My energy was non existent and we were covering court and then having to jump into the air to hit hard. I tried to play it cool and do some roll shots, but was told to actually swing. Between each drill I would slowly trudge through the sand, saving my energy for the drill itself. Spartan training had taught me that I had much more in the tank when I felt like I had to stop, but that didn’t help things.

After I started to fade, sitting between each drill and running to the water whenever possible, Ryan and another member of the group decided to sit out. Now there were only enough of us participating to properly do the drill, meaning there was no sitting out time. My perserverance had damned me. Post practice, I grabbed my things and walked straight back to the hotel for a cold shower and air conditioning.

The second training later in the day went a lot better. It was still hot but I was more hydrated. My muscles were definitely beaten up by the first practice and now we were doing blocking drills with Toms, the most intense of the coaches. I am a defensive player, so I rarely block and when I do, it is wildly unorthodox. Repeated block jumps left me edging death again. Until I served a ball short on Ryan, causing him to dive and his also dehydrated calf muscle to cramp. He hit the ground in pain and began yelling that he pulled his muscle. Looking at it, I immediately told him it was a cramp and he said he didn’t know the difference so it was pulled. Science. Either way, it bought me some time to relax. Sorry, Ryan. On the bright side, Toms taught us some great footwork that really alleviated the weakest part of my blocking, pulling off the net. Day two of training done, off to Mexican for dinner.

The crew with the pros

We all ate a small pre-dinner, as we had had Mexican twice on this trip and both times had been underwhelming portion wise. The entire group loaded into songthaews and we road to a Mexican place in Thong Sala. Some decent food and decent portions and afterwards we got to hang out with Samoilovs and Renars, one of the people facilitating BeachBox Camps. Now that we had met people, it became more of training with friends which made it even better.

A Level Player, Olympic Level Smack Talker

Since the start of my volleyball career, I have been known to refer to myself as a “C level player, Open level smack talker”, but my skills have improved in the last two years, and I guess my smack talk had to to. We’ll get to that though.

Two more trainings on the third day and then there was a night tournament planned. We were told it would be fours, but when we arrived it was sixes. Sand sixes, my least favorite version of volleyball. It gets a little more fun when you add olympic players. I was put on a team with Chaim Schalk, Ryan had Elena Ponomarev and Aaron was on a team with Samoilovs.

The first game should have been easy for us. We made a ton of mistakes, hitting into the net and missing serves. I thought maybe Chaim would kill us all and just play by himself. Game two was a little better but still not a win. The next two games, we got it together and starting putting up some points. Chaim was having a blast running indoor calls with us. Dan did a lot better than I did, as he has played a lot of indoor. I was mostly just smiling and nodding and relying on my speed and unorthodox style to put some points down. Luckily, our losses were to the last place team and the undefeated team, so our victories against the other two teams put us in the position to go to finals. It was a mostly for fun tournament so it didn’t last very long and was just straight to finals. Our team had been making it work but we were facing the undefeated team in finals.

Finals was a blast. Matched against Aaron, our friend from the first time in Koh Phangan, Matias and Samoilovs, you know there was a lot of smack talk. Towards the middle of the game, I served a ball to Samoilovs outside shoulder and it went shooting into the ocean. Everyone began cheering but when they looked back, I was gone. I had started running and yelling “Book me a flight! I did it!”. After the dramatics, we played a close game that ended with us winning. We didn’t get a video of me acing Samoilovs but Ryan did grab a video of Samoilovs refusing to give me my medal because I aced him. The most fun night of sixes came to an end and we all went to sleep and had a free day following.

Beachbox Camp night tourney champs

Learn to Relax

For the free day, the camp offered a trip around the island to see some waterfalls and other sites, but we really needed the break after going straight from the Vietnam trip to training. Ryan and I grabbed breakfast and pretty much hid in the room while Aaron went on a hike and went to play. I got my India visa handled and later headed over to the courts to play. I got some good games in and after a few hours decided that my body needed rest. I went and grabbed two dinners and Dan and I decided to get them to go and go watch more pick up. Samoilovs had been traveling with his best friend and wanted to play some doubles, so we had to get back on the court.

Dan is a pretty good player, so to get points, my hand sets just had to be on point. Samoilovs didn’t jump to attack or serve, unfortunately, stating that he had to see my insurance first. Dan and I both got some aces on him but sadly lost our first game. We played him in the rematch and grabbed the win. We never had a chance for the rubber match, so I guess I can say I’m 1-1 against olympic players. Definitely an experience I likely will not get again.

Found my new partner for this season

Severely tired, I laid on the side of the court and said I was done playing. Sandra, one of the girls running the camp, offered me up to play and the other guy ran to change. I felt bad saying no after he went to change, so I played. Big mistake, I woke up the following morning with the tightest hamstring.

Everything is Better With Friends

The next two days were the standard two a days of training, but there was a half moon party on the island on that second day. Our final day of training. We all decided to skip it since it was a bit expensive for Thailand and we had the King of the Beach tournament the following day. The group decided to host some games of sand sixes with some special rules. Any time the ball hit the ground inside the court without being touched by that respective side’s team, that team had to drink. They also had to drink if they lost three consecutive points. Our team was at a slight disadvantage as Aaron and I both brought rum and Aaron is big on sharing. Team Rum definitely was not the most coordinated, but we had the most fun. Later in the night, we ended up playing much better and actually pulling out a win. A second time of actually having fun playing sand sixes. BeachBox has some magic skills. Everyone headed off for the Half Moon Party and we got some much needed sleep.

The following day was the King of the Beach tournament, my favorite tournament format. The tournament was split into groups 1 and 2 and groups 3, 4 and 5. Then everyone grabbed a number and the nets were made in numerical order. I got the unlucky draw and was the only one from group 2 on my net. Even worse, my first game was against the two players that everyone thought would win, my good buddies Matias and Dan. I played the worst I think I have ever played against some really good players and didn’t feel good about any of it.

After getting out, I just watched everyone else. Ryan also played poorly and didn’t make it through. Aaron tied for a spot in the next round but had to play a game of volley tennis to take the spot and didn’t end up winning. So we were all out. The BeachBox logo is a lion (because Samoilovs is “The Lion King”) so Sandra added some art to my lion tattoo. Finals ended up being three of the guys from my net, so I didn’t feel too bad. It was a good end to the camp. Following the finals, we were all given certificates for completing the camp and the winners of the tournament were given medals and actual game worn jerseys from the pros.

After that, we all went to a white party at the infinity pool bar mentioned earlier. I don’t travel with white clothes, so I went and picked up a white tanktop with a skull made of flowers on it. The drinks were wildly expensive even for America there, so I kept drinking to a minimum. We all swam and hung out and said goodbye one last time. On the walk there, Samoilovs mentioned that he had wanted the tanktop I had on when he saw it in the store, so I gave it to him, another cool experience I probably won’t get again. Party over, everyone said their goodbyes.

Ryan is a party animal…that animal just happens to be a cat

Time Flies

The following day was our last day with Aaron and some of the others from the camp. Woken up with demands of what was going on, I stepped in and planned the day. We would all rent scooters, go to Malibu beach (where the other volleyball nets were) and then head somewhere for sunset. We grabbed breakfast and figured out how many people we had. Eight people, so four scooters. Ryan and I were automatically drivers due to our Vietnam experience. I hadn’t missed driving after how much we did in Vietnam, and the lack of maintenance on the scooters there didn’t make me happy to get back on one.

We made out way to Malibu Beach and were all way too tired to do any serious playing, so we played some laid back fours. Honestly, a great way to say goodbye as we were all involved and just having fun. Some of the group left for the ferry and I found us a bar the watch the sunset.

One last day of play at Malibu Beach before people start leaving

We made the trek up to 360 bar in the northwest corner of Koh Phangan. The road up to the bar takes you up some pretty steep dirt roads, but we made it. When you park, there is a beautiful view of the ocean. Everyone started taking pictures and a member of the group, Paul, exclaimed how awesome it was. His girlfriend, Milla, pointed to some garbage and replied “Yes, look at this beautiful garbage.”. “And to think he was going to propose.”, I retorted. “Maybe later.”, he shot back. We entered the bar to see the even cooler view to the west that included to island of Koh Ma.

360 has a pretty good sunset view

Prices were reasonable, and a purchase was required, so we all grabbed dinner and I got an ice cream bar. While sitting there chatting, Paul pulled something out of his pocket while facing Milla. Confused, I thought “Paul is so dedicated to that joke from earlier, he even found what looks like a ring box.”. As he opened it, Dan and I both sat there with jaws open. Milla was equally dumbfounded. “You still haven’t said yes.”, Paul blurted out. An awesome day topped off with a marriage proposal. We grabbed a bunch of pictures and watched the sunset before taking off. This week will be a hard one to top.

The following day, we went to check out an insane hotel that we all thought was a temple. Ornate architecture and several pools were scattered along the staircases as the property went down to the beach. We checked everything out and went to sit on the beach for a bit. After that, we returned our scooters and grabbed a taxi to Thong Sala, where Aaron would grab the ferry. A stop to Phantip market for his last taste of authentic Thai food and then we took him to the ferry. Traveling so weird in that you spend all day for several days with someone and then they are just gone. Goodbye never quite covers it.

Aaron showed off his new shorts at the fancy temple hotel

Friendship Catalyst

I have often said that traveling creates my favorite types of friendships. In hostels, you instantly become best friends with people. Especially in a language with a different native language than your own, that person may be the only person you know in that country and maybe even who speaks your language. This creates bonds faster than any other common situation. Ryan was staying on the island after I planned to leave so I shared a hotel with Dan, our new French born American (we’re claiming him) friend from the camp. Dan and I negotiated prices for some scooters near the ferry so we could drop them off when we left. After that, we grabbed a bungalow in one of the western beach towns and headed off to play some volleyball. I played horribly again so I decided my brain needed a volleyball break.

These are a few of my favorite things

Following the play, we grabbed some dinner and decided to go check out some neighboring beaches. Unlike the always lively Haad Rin we were used to, all of these beaches seemed to die down at 9pm. We rode to several beaches and all of them were dark with no visitors. It was an interesting sight to see the stars with no light pollution and the ocean lit by nothing by boats and the moon. We had planned an early morning hike so we headed home.

Dan had been the one really pushing to wake up at 7am to do the big hike, so when I woke up at 8am, I assumed he wouldn’t be happy with me. When I sat up and saw him laying in his bed, I didn’t feel as bad. We grabbed free breakfast at our hotel and ate looking out onto the beach. In general, I do not appreciate things in the moment as much as I think I should so on this trip I have tried to be very conscious of appreciating things. Eating delicious food on one of the most beautiful beaches on the planet was definitely something I made sure to appreciate.

Life is definitely not bad

After breakfast, we met up with Ryan at a nearby waterfall. Due to it being dry season, there was pretty much no water, so it was just rocks. What was supposed to be a short hike turned into over two kilometers. The lack of water let us scramble up the rocks where the water usually runs, making it more of a climb than a hike. After over an hour of walking, we hit a viewpoint of the entire western coast of the island.

The view of the western half of the island
Ryan climbs up where a waterfall should be

I stopped up to the beach to watch Matias and Dan play, but resisted the urge to play to give my brain and body the much needed break. After they were done playing, Dan and I grabbed some Indonesian food that was recommended to us and checked out the night market. I had forgotten how much I missed getting a bunch of different foods for cheap at street markets. On the way bck from the night market, we passed what looked like a carnival at one of the wats. We checked out a bunch of local games, including a ring toss where you could win entire bottls of liquor. I saw soft serve and got a huge vanilla strawberry cone for less than a dollar. This is something I will be sad to leave behind when I leave Asia.

Bliss

Dan headed to Koh Samui for the day so I planned to take it easy that day. I remembered that Treva, my old neighbor from Ohio State, the one we randomly ran into in a tea shop in Chiang Rai, happened to be on the island that day so I messaged her and found out she was staying at the same hostel as me. She didn’t have a motorbike yet so I offered to scoot her around. Not feeling safe riding without her having a helmet, I stopped at some rental shops to get her a helmet. We stopped at three and all of them wanted more money to rent her a helmet than to give us another bike and a helmet included or just straight up told us no. We opted to get breakfast near where I rented the bike and just got her a helmet where I rented my bike.

After we rode around a bit, I decided I should do some snorkeling. I asked the hostel clerk where I could rent a snorkel and for how much, especially since I had been meaning to try out those new full face snorkel masks. He gave me a confused look and handed me an older style snorkel and separate mask and said I could just take them for free if I brought them back. Not exactly what I wanted but I always down for free. I rode to the nearby beaches that had been suggested for snorkeling. I walked into the water and began swimming through, passing all sorts of different fish and coral. I forgot how beautiful marine life is and was thankful it is so easy to float in salt water. I also remembered why they suggest not have a moustache when wearing a snorkeling mask. It makes it near impossible to form a seal between the mask and your face. Constantly, my mask was filling with water. I continued to breathe through the snorkel and ignored the burning as the salt water filled the nose area of the mask. I walked across the sandbar to Koh Ma and then road off to a few other beaches.

I’ll miss beach dogs a lot

I took the snorkel back and picked up Treva and back to Malibu beach we went. Ryan and I saw some of the people from the volleyball camp and played some sideout with them. After Ryan stopped playing, it was me and three Swedish players who were all better than me. They made a bet on the game in Swedish and then I was notified of the bet. We lost the game and somehow I ended up buying beers for everyone because of it. Thank god Thailand prices are cheap. Back home to take care of some things for India and finally get some sleep.

The End Approaches

It is always funny to me how motivated I become as a deadline approaches. I was fine to lay around the island and do nothing until we played volleyball for days and in the last few days, I had to do everything I could. I made some plans for us to go learn some archery on my second to last day. An older German man named Thomas ran an archery range near where we were staying. For five dollars per person, you got thirty minutes, which included the owner helping you calibrate the sights and teaching you the proper way to shoot an arrow. After each of our bows were calibrated, we went six rounds of shooting. After everyone finished shooting, we retrieved our arrows and Thomas taught us how to add up our scores. As a child, I loved shooting bows and it is still a very satisfying thing to do. Before I left, I had wanted to buy a bow and start that as a hobby but it was a decent investment when I knew I would be fleeing the country (bows don’t really fit in a forty liter backpack and airports probably don’t like them). Side note, there are some really cool places to go shoot in Cleveland if anyone has interest in starting it as a hobby. After the thirty minutes, we all had sore hands so it was the perfect amount of time.

We all went to play and I finally felt like I was back to playing better. Malibu beach is tucked in the Northern coast of Koh Phangan, so sitting in the water post game was a nice relaxation. I had wanted to hit my favorite Haad Rin restaurant, Mama Schnitzel, one last time but no one else wanted to, so I made the thirty minute ride alone. Afterwards, I stopped at the night market for one last sticky rice and mango. We made some plans to do the big hike to the highest viewpoint on Koh Phangan that we missed earlier in the week early in the morning. We were all set to meet there at 7:30am.

When I woke up at 8:15am, I was filled with a bit of regret. It was my last day on the island and everyone was hiking without me because I slept through my alarms. I dropped my bags off because Dan and I were again splitting a room for my last night and stopped off to grab water and snacks. The hike took an estimated one and a half to two hours. I sidelined my regret for missing the hike with everyone and remembered that most of my friends are humans. Lucky for me (and thanks to Jeff), I have that Spartan blood and my body is always ready to blast up mountains. I rode to the hiking trail, strapped my sandals tight, removed my shirt and put an audiobook on my headlines. One hour later, completely soaked from the hour of steep hiking, I arrived at the top to find my friends. They had only beaten me by thirty minutes. The viewpoint was honestly underwhelming, but the hour hike alone was something I had forgotten was such a calming experience for me. We grabbed some pictures and then headed back down the trail.

The view from the Khao Ra hike

We headed into town for lunch and then all met back up to play some volleyball. Ryan and I played our last game together and then we all headed to Zen beach so see why it was so popular for sunset. The beach was filled with yogis, people practicing poi, juggling and other skills, and a drum circle. I grabbed a big ear of grilled corn and we all sat and watched the sun creep down behind the ocean. I will never get sick of sunsets over water. We grabbed dinner and ice cream and I said some goodbyes. I headed home and made sure everything was packed and everything was in order for my journey in the morning.

I get why people go to Zen Beach every day

The Storm Before The Calm

I woke up and rode to return my bike. Ryan and Dan met me for breakfast and I finally tried Thai rice porridge. My day would consist of a ferry, a bus, a flight, a taxi ride, another flight, a layover, flight, layover, one last flight and then a taxi ride. It would be about twenty four hours from leaving Koh Phangan before hitting my ashram in Rishikesh, India. Ryan joked that something obviously bad would happen with all of those moving parts, mostly because I was involved. I let my anxiety about the situation subside and enjoyed our final breakfast together.

They walked with me over to the ferry and Ryan and I took a picture together in front of the port together. Over three months of being together every day and it came to an end just like that. My deep love for films and literature always leaves me feeling unsatisfied with goodbyes. I always feel like they should be grand or somehow notable. Three months of adventuring through three countries, countless new friends and a ton of new skills that most people never even think to learn in their lives. All of that has to end with something crazy, right? The action packed trip of a lifetime with your best friend doesn’t just abruptly end…in the movies. We hugged and said goodbye and I walked to the ferry. Hollywood leaves us with such high expectations.

After over three months, this is our final picture together

I sat on the ferry and the wave of emotion and anxiety overcame me. Either of us will be quick to tell you that I handled all of the planning and things for the trip, so I wasn’t worried about being stranded or having to handle anything for the remaining travels alone. Now, I was truly alone. My anxieties were not about dealing with the bad things alone, but not having someone with me to experience the good things. Had I appreciated the time as best I could? Three months is a lot of time to spend nonstop with a person, I am sure there are a ton of situations that I could have handled better or enjoyed more. Other than try to appreciate the insane amount of things that we did in the past three months, there was little I could do while sitting on the neverending ferry ride than reminisce.

The ferry that took me from paradise

My ferry finally arrived and I sat at the port and waited for my bus. I took my bus to the airport and made sure I made it to the correct gate. I watched Thai hard court volleyball nationals on a fuzzy television while I waited two hours for my flight. The plane arrived, but boarding didn’t begin. I had three and a half hours for my next layover, and the airport I would land at was thirty five minutes from the airport I had to leave from. Thirty minutes later, we still weren’t boarding. The women at the gate desk informed me it would leave any minute. Thirty more minutes and we took off. Over an hour delay for less than a one hour flight. Now I was down to just over two hours to get to my next flight. The delay also pushed my journey between airports into rush hour time.

I arrived at DMK and had to make to BKK. I acknowledge that the free shuttle would be too slow and headed to the taxi area. The airport taxi area had a queue system and I definitely had no time for that. I opened grab and called a cab and walked ten minutes from the airport for it to pick me up. When I told the cab driver my flight was in two and a half hours, his eyes got huge. I wouldn’t be at that airport for two hours. I told him I have to try. Google said it would take one and a half hours and Google hadn’t failed us yet.

The driver spent the first ten minutes of the ride telling me how I probably won’t make my flight. Great social intelligence from this guy. Google suggested hoping off the expressway and taking streets to avoid a blockage. When I mentioned it, he said no, Google is wrong and continued forward. Google’s predicted time shot up twenty minutes. My anxiety skyrocketed.

We continued forward and Google suggested another change of route that would knock off six minutes. I looked at his GPS and it suggested the same thing. I pointed out that it would save six minutes and he told me six minutes was nothing. I explained that when I am down to twenty five minutes, six minutes is huge. This started a huge argument that ended in me asking him to please take the route the GPS was suggesting. Angrily, he got off the highway…at the wrong exit. Now we sat at a red light while he yelled about me not trusting him and how I would definitely miss my flight now. I tried to explain that he got off at the wrong exit but he was too busy yelling. Cool, now I am late and am getting yelled at. Why didn’t I call a motorbike taxi? They don’t care about traffic and I don’t have to converse with them. My mistake for turning my back on motorbikes.

The driver continued and Google suggested he get back on the expressway. He passed it, exclaiming “Oh, now you want expressway? I thought you didn’t want to be on the expressway before. You make no sense.”. I started some breathing techniques, because I was clearly not going to explain to this man how GPS directions work and I really didn’t want to continue an argument and end up ejecting him from his own taxi. I called Citi to see my options, and they told me that because I was checked in, I had to deal with the airline. I called the airline and they failed to pull up my flight at all, so there was definitely nothing they could do. I hopelessly sat in the backseat watching my ETA approach my flight time.

As we neared the airport, I pulled out money to pay him. He looked at the money and said “What? No tip?”. My usual disdain for people expecting tips was compounded by the fact that this man had actively cost me time and added to my anxiety. I threw him an extra twenty baht and started putting my bags on. As soon as he pulled up, I hopped out and sprinted to the international departures security line. I asked them if I could still make the flight, they waved me through. Twenty five minutes until departure time. I got through security. My bag beeps. That damn screwdriver from Vietnam had made it through four flights, of course it would get stopped now. I reach in, throw out the screwdriver and run off with my bag. I hit passport control. I make it through. Fifteen minutes until departure time. I made it through security and passport control in ten minutes, I got this. I see my flight on the board. “Final Call”, it flashes. I am in C and the flight is in E. I start sprinting wit my almost thirty pounds of bags. It must have been about a kilometer. I began breathing heavy. My legs wanted to quit. I reach the gate, I see the plane. I arrive as a man is locking the gate. “I am on that flight, please let me in.”, I tell the man. “Closed, get another ticket.”, he replies. I plead, telling him I have three other flights. He again responds to get another ticket. I tell him the plane is still there. Another no. Two attendants come out and tell me they have to take me back to immigration. For the first time in I don’t know how long, I genuinely wanted to cry.

They take me the long walk I had sprinted back to immigration and cancel my departure stamp. I am defeated. I walk to an outlet to charge my phone and call my mom. I just want to talk to someone who is not involved to refrain from yelling. I have had Chase handle similar issues with ease, but now I have a Citi card. Not a mistake I will be making again. The flight I missed with a rewards flight booked through Citi. I had another flight in the morning through Citi rewards that had been booked within twenty four hours, and had been eligible for a full refund of points. The initial delayed flight that caused the whole ordeal was booked with my Citi card. I called them, and dealt with the horrendous mess that is their automated system. When I finally got a representative, they immediately transferred me to travel rewards. I never ended up figuring how to dispute the initial delayed flight. I discussed with travel rewards about options for the flight I missed. They explained that they couldn’t help and I had to discuss with the airline. I asked them to cancel my morning flight and refund my points and book me a later flight. Again, they told me that because I was checked in, they could not help. Great, I am doing a myriad of travel planning on poor airport wifi.

I call the missed flight. They tell me that for one hundred and sixty dollars I can have the morning version of the flight I had missed. That’s the best price I had seen. I took it. I checked the AirIndia site for any signs of being able to check out, but all of the reference codes I had been given, including the one to check in to the flight, did not find my flight. I called them and waited on hold for forty minutes without ever reaching a representative. It was now 10pm, I had a flight at 8am and still had to book a hotel. I figured I had done my due diligence, a Citi supervisor could override something. I dealt with their horrible automated interface again. The representative heard my story and apologized, putting me directly through to a supervisor. Immediately she told me she could not help me. I explained to her that none of the numbers they gave me worked and I was on hold for forty minutes with no reply. She told me to wait for longer. Never again will I get a Citi card.

I sat on hold for another hour with AirIndia while booking a hotel and waiting for the shuttle. I finally got a representative. The English was not the best. I explained that I needed to check out of the flight. She asked to cancel the flight. I said no, just check me out. She said she would do that I would receive a confirmation. I asked a second time about the confirmation, she replied yes, I never received one. I arrived at my hotel at midnight. I offered to carry in the bags of an older American couple. While I was carrying their stuff, they were arguing with the front desk about an accidental double booking they needed to cancel. I just wanted to sleep. They walked away to try to cancel while I checked in. Right after I paid, the woman said they couldn’t cancel their room so I could have it for free if I wanted it. Right after I was done paying, the cherry on top of my day. I went to my room and showered.

I called Citi and this time was not my usual polite self. I explained that it had been four hours, Citi had been the opposite of helpful and I just wanted my points refunded. The representative apologized and said he saw that things had been fixed (thanks to my calls earlier). I explained that I had a flight in eight hours and was done dealing with this stuff. He understood and put me on hold for twenty minutes. I resisted my urge to gain psychic abilities and kill him through the phone. Upon returning, he said he could cancel the flight if I gave him permission. I said of course. He replied that I was still checked in and he couldn’t. I almost snapped. I told him I had done more than my due diligence and it needed to be handled. He offered to call the airline for me. I was dumbfounded that the other three representatives couldn’t do that. He offered to call me back in twenty minutes with my options. I told him I would be asleep. I told him I wanted the points and wouldn’t be dealing with anymore phone calls. I still have to call Citi and handle the initial flight and inform them of the nightmare their customer service had been.

The Road to Peace

*Gently cries*

I woke up in the morning before my alarm. The earliest shuttle was full, so I grabbed a taxi. I got to the airport to find out that my second flight was unable to be checked in. I called the airline again and asked them to settle it. They told me that I had to wait until the layover airport to fix it. A supervisor at the Bangkok airport offered to fix it if I could show her all the necessary documents. Finally, a helpful person. Flights settled, I headed to my gate. It took me about forty five minutes to get through security and passport control this time. I spent the rest of my baht on two slices of pizza, a muffin and a coke zero. The simple comforts. SriLankan Airlines had a good selection of movies on the flight, so that occupied me. At the layover airport, I drank a milkshake while waiting for my two hour layover.

Upon arriving in Delhi, I needed to get the money out for my yoga tuition. The ATMs only let me take out one hundred and fifty dollars at a time and there was a line, so I grabbed a chunk to cover my taxi and some extra. The ashram had booked me a taxi and told me where to meet them so I headed there. Twenty minutes of waiting and no replies to my messages and I began to worry. Finally, they called. He would arrive in ten minutes. I thought the ride would be five hours but he informed me it would be seven. I planned to sleep in the backseat but as we got to the car, he opened the front seat for me. I felt bad telling him I wanted to go in the back so I sat in the front.

The roads in India are not the best maintained, there were limited lights and its similarly aggressive to Thailand, but with mostly cars as opposed to motorbikes. I pulled my buff over my eyes and put headphones on. Every time I woke up, it was to oncoming headlights, which was unsettling. Gas stations in India require you to fully get out of the car, so that didn’t help either. We made a pit stop at the driver’s home for me to meet his family and have some chai tea, which I appreciated but at this point, I had no interest in being social. We got back in the car.

Gas stations in India are wild

Two hours left, I fell back asleep. I woke up with around an hour left and the driver informed me how tired he was. Yikes. I did my best to hold an interesting conversation. Asking him about himself and asking him to teach me some Hindi. He got me to Rishikesh and informed me that cars can’t cros the bridges over the Ganga river so he would have to go around or the ashram could get me. He got me to the bridge and someone from the ashram picked me up on a motorbike. As he rode through narrow passages and over crushed bricks, I acknowledge that I am not the lightest person and hopped off or pushed off walls whenever we would get stuck. He got me to the ashram. It as 2am and he informed me I could check in in the morning. The days start at 5:30am but lucky for me, the orientation day started with breakfast at 9am. I had booked a shared room but he took me to a private room. I decided to deal with that in the morning and passed out.

That’s the end of the story of the journey to Rishikesh. For the next month, I will be living in an ashram, learning about yoga. This will include learning Hatha and Ashtanga Yoga, as well as meditation, mantras and other aspects relating to the topic. It also includes a yogic diet, much to my dismay. I can get meat in the town but am dedicated to trying to follow the experience as it is presented to me. I will write one big blog post about the whole experience, but intend to get back to the weekly schedule, so I will write some extraneous posts in the next two weeks. Feel free to message me if there is a topic you want discussed or I will write about some other travel related things that never make it in to these.

The Banana Pancake Trail: January 17th – January 23rd

After a few days of seeing all the same people and hearing about the same travel route frequently, we found out it was affectionately named “The Banana Pancake Trail”. Still haven’t found out why, but I have had a lot of really good banana pancakes for free in the hostels. The past week started our actual traveling and the more two to three day stops in cities and then departing that is more common with backpacking.

Chiang Mai’s More Authentic Sibling

We departed Chiang Mai for Chiang Rai. We only had one day there, so we had to make it count. We woke up to the best breakfast I’ve had so far…for free in our hostel. Banana chocolate chip pancakes, score. We utilized our new scooter skills to make it work. There was a much lower population of tourists around Chiang Rai, so scooter rentals were not as frequent as we had seen in Chiang Mai.

The Singha Lion
One small part of Singha Park

First stop was heading to Singha Park. Singha is a Thai beer with a cool lion logo. We head off for their park and saw their giant golden lion. We grabbed some matcha ice cream and decided to ride through the park. It was acres of perfectly manicured grounds. This also included a cool viewpoint of the grounds, ziplining and rock climbing.

A close up of some of the art surrounding the White Temple
The main temple of the White Temple
The Ganesha building

Next up was the famous White Temple. This temple is the work of famous contemporary artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. The temple is surrounded by skulls hanging from trees and the initial bridge is surrounded by a lake of hands reaching up from the ground. The entire grounds was covered in some really well done dark art. Hidden throughout were some popculture references, like The Ninja Turtles and their master, Splinter. Arriving at the entrance, there is a bench with Iron Man armor made to look like a buddhist statue. A little further into the grounds is an entire building dedicated to my favorite god, Ganesha. Paintings, tapestries and jewelry adorned the inside of the picture-restricted building. Each year Chalermchai paints a new interpretation of Ganesha raising the Dharma. The room is filled with many coins and other artifacts decorated with the image of Ganesha. The golden building was topped with a giant Ganesha statue. On the way out, the gift shop was filled with more Kositpipat art filled with pop culture references, including George Bush and Saddam riding a rocket and Spiderman slinging near the World Trade Centers.

One of the buildings from the Black House

A quick shoot over to the Black House just before it closed to see some crazy architecture and art made out of dead animal parts. The architecture was Gothic style and was mostly made of bones. A lot of it had restricted access, but it could have been because we got there late.

After the long day of being a tourist, we shot over to the local hot spring and enjoyed some relaxation before we had to return the scooters. The ride back was through rural Chiang Mai which was a fun way to test out some finer scooter techniques. Unfortunately, we ended up driving back in the dark which proved more difficult than we expected with how aggressive Thai drivers are. Between us and the scooter rental place was a very crowded roundabout, which required more faith than driving skill but we made it.

The Golden Clocktower

Charlemchai Kositpipat also created a large golden clock tower in the center of Chiang Rai that has a pretty awesome light show at the top of the hour in the evening time. We returned the scooters at 7, so we hopped across the street to catch the show. Music started and the clock tower began changing colors and the Ganesha statue in the center began to raise as a lotus rose from beneath it. The lotus began rotating and then opened before the process reversed. Pretty cool for local art.

We have been jonesing for our own ginger tea since all of the hostels have free hot water but only offer Lipton tea bags and there happened to be a tea shop across from the clock tower so we decided to stop in. As we walked in, I noticed one of my best friend’s college roommate sitting at the table journeying. I haven’t seen her in 5 years and randomly run into her in a tea shop on the other side of the planet. Life is cool. We grabbed dinner and checked out the night market before heading home for some sleep before our big journey.

Slow Ride, Take It Easy

Our new favorite form of transportation

Somehow, I was never able to wake up on time for my 10am job, but I’ve been a very good alarm clock for Ryan throughout this trip. Up at 5am to start our journey, the owner of Grace Hostel was nice enough to also get up that early and make us breakfast and drive five of us to the bus station. A decently long bus ride to the Thai-Laos border and we checked out of our Thai visa and exchanged our Baht for US dollars. I had brought my own, so exchanged it for Laos Kip, but Ryan exchanged his for USD. A quick shuttle across a river and we had to fill out some forms for our Laos visas. They take our passports and I pay for mine. Ryan hands the visa officer the money he had just received from the Thai border exchange and they tell him no. Someone had written “Hawaii, USA” on one of the dollars and they refused to take it. I offered them some of mine, but there was an ink dot, no dice. We tried to exchange it at the exchange office there and same issue. I got out some emergency cash and we got his passport. Pay a big some for our ticket and we’re tossed into the back of a truck with a group and a dog and on our way to the slow boat.

River views

I did an okay amount of research for this, but was mostly going with the flow. They take you to a store beforehand and we got some snacks. At some point, everyone headed to the boat without us so we were one of the last to go. The long tail boat contained three aisles of two car seats each all the way back, with some stair tiered areas. No seats available, we head to the back. A dark engine room filled with supplies and locals and the other tourists unfortunate enough not to get a seat. As soon as the boat started, the room got loud and hot and we were cramped. We paid for a boat trip to be stuck with no view and no breeze. I was raised better. We grab our stuff and head to the front. We post up on the stairs and set my tablet on a stack of backpacks and begin watching movies. Beautiful breeze, astonishing views and we can stand up and move while traveling? Easy choice. Six or so hours later and we hit the halfway point of Pak Beng, Laos.

Morning view from Pak Beng

Pak Beng is an interesting, little town. By all accounts, it seems its only purpose is to stand as the halfway point for the slow boat trip between Chiang Kong, Thailand and Luang Prubang, Laos. A number of guest houses, restaurants and convenient stores line the single street up the hill. Our guest house suggested us a local bar that would serve Laos and Indian food. I am always down for Indian food, but don’t like heading to places suggested by tours/guest houses as they tend to be tourist traps. We checked out all of the restaurants on the street and noticed it was all the same stuff at the same prices. Oh yeah, Laos is a communist country. We head to the bar to eat with people we had met on the boat. The Indian food at the bar was delivered by the Indian restaurant we had seen on the street. We order enough food that they assume it’s for the whole table. Nope, just two Americans.

Making our own space

Day two of the boat trip and we arrive early enough to snag some good seats. This boat had a cargo hold for the bags and two aisles of seats, one three or four seats and one two seat aisle. Bags under and we have another seven hours to check out the views and enjoy the breeze. Our boat arrives about ten kilometers outside of Luang Prabang and a young kid climbs into the cargo hold and starts pulling the bags out alone. All of the tourists are just watching him lift their heavy bags out of the boat. I step up and start helping him move the bags. Passengers are pushing through to stand in the way as they wait to see their bag. This is why people don’t like tourists. They get the last bag up and we hop in a tuk tuk to the city. A short ride with some drunk Englishmen yelling about Baker Mayfield and we arrive at our hostel.

France in Laos

Your favorite adventurers getting some relaxation time

The French colonized areas of Laos, so baguettes and crepes are in abundance in Luang Prabang. The city is pretty light on things to do but we were just passing through. Our hostel was a good place to relax. The popular bar was about a hundred meters from our hostel and the internet said there were sand courts there, but no one updates these things and it’s been gone for over a year. There were some cushion beds on a cliff overlooking the river, so we enjoyed that at least. The following day, we took a tour to the bear sanctuary and Kuang Si waterfalls. The entrance is lined with areas for the bears to hang out. After the bears, you get a view of some pretty majestic blue water. As we hiked up the trail that ran along the waterfalls, we got glimpses of the different tiers of waterfalls. A harder path takes you to the top of the fifty meters of waterfalls. Danger signs can be seen behind the spiked fences from when tourists were able to walk all the way to the edge, but now you can’t even get a view of the falls from the top. We hop in a pool at the top and then make our way down. A little more swimming and we head back.

Bears hanging out in hammocks together
Kuang Si falls

The Canadians we met at the waterfalls wanted to check out a waterpark, so we went on a long walk to check it out. Again, things don’t get updated online, so the park was closed for improvements. Oh well, we had a freezing pool at our hostel. The only thing open in Luang Prabang after midnight is a bowling alley, so we decided to check that out. An interesting place to say the very least. There’s an archery range as you walk in and an assortment of alcohol is sold alongside laughing gas balloons. Two quick games (which I won and tied for first) and we headed back to the hostel.

Statues of monks praying
Laos has some good sunsets

The next day we decided to check out the Phou Si mountain in the center of town and the temple on top. We’re a bit burned out on temples, so a quick run through and a mountain sunset view and we were off to dinner. Everyone makes their way down to Vieng Vang after Luang Prabang and it was closer to our motorcycle lessons, so we booked a bus.

Party Town Revitalized

Our mini van took off at 7:30am, so we grabbed breakfast and got in. The driver was a bit of a mad man but that was nothing new for this trip. I managed to fall asleep for a minute before waking up to us heading towards a sharp turn on a gravel road on the side of a mountain while we were above the clouds. Needless to say, I didn’t get any more sleep on the trip. I was sitting far enough up to get a good view of the driver whizzing past trucks on sharp turns while answering his cell phone, no big deal. Three hours of horror and we arrived in Vieng Vang.

Street view from Vieng Vang

Vieng Vang used to be the place to party in Laos. Hundreds of people would drunkenly tube and cause general mayhem in the city. When death became pretty common due to the high consumption of alcohol and drugs, the local authorities shut down tubing altogether. In the past few years, it reopened with more regulation. The shutting down of tubing killed the tourism in Vieng Vang, and it has slightly recovered with higher quality tourist attractions. This seems pretty easy because the area is the most beautiful we’ve seen so far, so a bit confusing why that attribute seems to be annoyed.

Making friends in the river

We decided to check out the tubing. I have been tubing before in Texas down the San Marcos river and had a blast. It’s mostly just drinking while going down a river. That’s what I thought we signed up for. My stomach was upset from dinner the night before so I was just excitged to sit in a river. Most of this tubing was short stints in the river between long intervals of sitting at riverside bars. The tubing itself and the area were beautiful, but I didn’t come to Asia to be trapped in small areas with drunk white people. Lesson learned we made the most of it.

Patiently Waiting

That’s a week. It feels like months. Ryan and I are both getting antsy to play so will likely maneuver some things to head to the islands early. For now, we have a few more days until we head to Kasi to do our motorcycle lessons and do a short road trip.

One Ticket to the Other Side of the World

It seems like if I got all of you to read me ramble about this trip, I should at least have a post about the trip to get here. I believe in being transparent about the negative aspects of good things, but they are usually necessities. So here’s the trip: Cleveland to Dallas to Seoul to Chiang Mai. Thirty hours of my life sitting in a seat in the sky.

I left the day after Christmas, which means Christmas Eve and Christmas were spent doing the final cleaning out of my apartment and trying to see everyone humanly possible. Anyone who knows me knows I am an extremely gifted procrastinator, so I finished cleaning out my apartment and handed in my keys at 9p.m. on Christmas. My flight left Cleveland at 6:30a.m. on December 26th. I left my car at my Dad’s house and they didn’t print my Seoul or Chiang Mai tickets and said I had to get them from the airport, so I wanted to go early to ensure that I got them with no issues. This meant that I had to go to the airport around 4:30a.m., so my Dad and I stayed up until I had to go to the airport. Around 2a.m., I decided I needed at least an hour of sleep. So I told my Dad I would be up in an hour and crawled into bed. His dog, Jinx, was nice enough to come cuddle with me (Sorry Dad, I know he isn’t allowed on the bed) and I fell asleep pretty quick. I got to the airport and found out they meant I had to get them from the airport I was headed to Seoul from, so no luck until Dallas. Two hours of sitting around with Ryan later, and we both headed off. He went to JFK and I headed to Dallas.

An uneventful three hour flight with only one hour of sleep later and I was in Dallas. As soon as I arrived, I headed to my gate and told the KoreanAir desk clerk that I needed my further tickets. She said I would need proof of onward travel to get my tickets, so I called Ryan to make sure we did the same thing. He had his laptop so I had him look up cheap flights. There were plenty of tickets with 24 hour total refunds but if I needed to show proof when I landed, it would be outside of that 24 hour window. Those were a bit more expensive if we didn’t get to refund them, so we decided on the cheapest we could find. I bought the $48 ticket Ryan found me and got my next two tickets. In standard Ryan fashion, he called me ten minutes later to let me know that he had found tickets for 26 dollars and gotten them for himself. I walked around for about an hour and then sat around for the last hour before my life, making sure everything I owned was charged and my limbs had a good stretch. Dallas to Seoul, 14 hour flight, the longest of my life so far.

The inflight animation of the fourteen hour Dallas to Seoul flight.

The flight itself was daunting and a weird experience in and of itself. Each row was split into three sets of three seats. I got the middle seat in the middle set, standard luck. I slept for the first hour, watched a movie, wrote some letters, watched another movie, regretted not putting games on my phone and then got some more sleep. The screen in front of me had a counter as to how much longer of a flight we had, a cruel joke disguised as a helpful feature. After all of these things, I was certain that I was at least halfway through my flight. No dice, 8 hours remaining. Everyone knows I am a huge movie junkie, 14 hours of movies is nothing for me, but trapped in a single seat is a different story. Luckily, they just kept feeding me, so hunger wasn’t an issue. I made sure to keep adequately hydrated, but they were really pushing the beer and wine. As fun as being drunk sounded, being hungover while trapped in a single seat sounds like a special kind of hell. Another movie down, I was running out of the interesting ones provided on the plane. 4 hours left, and I was starting to wonder if they would just let me jump out and swim the rest of the way. Thanks to the beauty of Netflix, I had downloaded some crime thriller series and began watching the episodes. Four episodes later and I was down to an hour and each episode was 45 minutes. One more episode and I am home free. Finished the episode and find out that timer is to when the plane will start it’s descent. Plane finally lands with an hour until my next flight. Unfortunately, we don’t get off the plane until forty minutes until my next flight. Added bonus, the Seoul Korea airport is gigantic and I am about a fifteen minute walk from the customs area. I make it through security, ten minutes until flight. I get a little excited to grab some food that isn’t from a plane and maybe lay on the ground or something. Mistake, the gate is about a ten minute walk. Ryan is messaging to ask if I got lost.

I hop on the plane and grab my aisle seat next to Ryan. Feels like four hours, but it’s been twenty two hours since we parted ways in Cleveland. We trade stories of our flights and Ryan tells me how cool the Seoul airport was, even sadder now. This is only a six hour flight and then we will be landing at 10:30p.m. Chiang Mai time. We decided we should refrain from sleeping so that we can dodge jetlag. I take a quick count, I slept for one hour after doing things nonstop all day on Christmas and got a total of three hours of sleep on my other two flights. The odds are low, but my body has done better for worse reasons. We play some games, we chat, we eat. I attempt to watch the final episode of my show and I can feel my brain refusing any sort of comprehension. Ryan grabs the provided blanket and rolls over to sleep. I agree that I could be more comfortable and wake up two hours later. Thirty minutes and we are in Chiang Mai, perfect. We land and remember we don’t read or speak Thai.

The inflight animation of the six hour final flight.

Airports are usually pretty self explanatory no matter what country you are in. Lines in airports are usually not as self explanatory. We get to an area filled with people with a bunch of signs that all vaguely seem to say the same thing. We need our arrival visa, we find the “Visa on Arrival” line. Before we hop in, I see United States is not listed. I do a quick Google (Thanks Sprint for the 2G everywhere) and find out that Americans have a visa exemption for arrival. We hop in to the longest line that seems to be about half Americans. We wait around for about thirty minutes hoping we are in the correct line and luckily, we are. We get to the front, I had in my arrival form and the clerk tells me I have to get back into line. Doesn’t sound like my plan for the day, so I quickly jot down the address to our hostel and we get our visas. Nothing to declare so we are on our way out the door. We exchange some cash for surprisingly close to the market exchange rate and dodge the taxis offering rides. We make it outside and realize there are none outside harassing people for rides, not something I have seen in other countries. We end up flagging one down and showing him the address. He quotes us two hundred baht, about seven dollars, pretty much American pricing, but at this point, we are about to pass out in the street so we agree that splitting seven dollars won’t kill us. Hop in the taxi and get to experience some authentic Thai driving and we make it to the hostel.
We settle our room debt (Seventy dollars total for two of us for seven days, score) and head to our room. It’s now about midnight Chiang Mai time. We open the door and the couple in our room are listening to something at full volume. Both take some long needed showers and get some much needed sleep. Thirty hours total and it only feels like six. I respond to all the texts and snaps I missed and realize that it’s about noon back at home. Time travel at its finest.