Category Archives: Traveling

Professional, But Not Professional Professional

When I went to Asia, I had been playing volleyball for a little over a year. After a month in Asia, Ryan and I played our first international tournament, which is detailed earlier in this blog. We had never touched the Mikasa ball, and in general, we sucked. We ended up winning one game and then going to another tournament the following week and I’m not sure if we scored more than ten points. One detail that I don’t think made that story is that we met some other Americans that had moved to Guam. One of them, Tatiana, told us that she had been playing for Guam and as new players, we were super impressed. She later informed us that she wouldn’t be a top player in the US, but the field is limited in Guam, so she’s top tier there. This started things swirling in my brain. I did some research and FIVBs at the time were using the star system. For American players, the prize pool of winning a one star wasn’t worth the travel if the tournament was held somewhere far from the US like Cambodia. I had the grand scheme of planning a trip to one of these locations and playing for the US and if we lost, then it’s just a vacation to that place. After that trip, COVID happened and after COVID, the FIVB switched to a new system that moved from five levels down to three, which basically pushed stars one through three into one division, crushing all hopes of us finding a tournament with no American teams.

I haven’t kept up with the blog or really posting, but I’ve taken a number of Ls this year. The citizenship stuff in Italy hasn’t gone well and it’s caused some other issues, but I’ll detail that in a post once it’s finally over. So after some bad citizenship news in April, I started digging into FIVB Futures details. There was a chance I wouldn’t be allowed to leave Italy and there were three events in Italy. I called up Ryan and asked if he was in to be dragged on more crazy adventures, and it’s usually an automatic greenlight for him. I began digging through player’s manuals and FIVB regulations and registered us to play in Lecce, Italy, a city we had lived in for a month. As I kept my eye on the registration list, no other American teams seemed to have joined, but neither had we. I had our confirmation so figured we just didn’t show up yet. What I learned is that US teams aren’t registered until the week before the deadline closes. A few days before the deadline closed, we found out that there were other American teams registered, and well known ones at that. There was no way we were taking that spot from them. Ever the optimist, I found an event in Switzerland, just outside of Italy, the same weekend that had another American team that I didn’t know and also wasn’t filled. Maybe that team didn’t have any points either, maybe it wouldn’t fill and we’d just get in. As the weeks went on, the tournament got more and more full. We were 25th on the reserve list. Even if we accounted for teams going over their country limit, we were still about 18th. We cancelled Ryan’s ticket to Europe and gave up on the dream. I had returned to the US and on the day I was to return to Italy, I randomly checked the teams list. Qualifications list, 16 seed, Massari/Rapini. We forgot that we didn’t need 18 teams to drop, we just needed the one American team to drop. Hopefully it was nothing bad, but we were in.

Test Your Might

I reached out to the USAV director and informed him that we got in and was told that we needed background screens, to complete classes and a health screening. Easy, easy and uhhh we will see. My Italian is decent, but is it “I’m playing a professional beach volley tournament, can you sign this to say I’m fit?” good? After returning to Italy, I called about making an appointment. Italy has two separate health certificates required for fitness things like going to the gym or competing in a tournament. For just going to the gym and general fitness, there is the medical agnostico and for competition, you need the medical sportivo agnostico. I’m still not sure what qualifies you to need either, as my yoga studio requires the first, but my gym requires nothing. I’ve played tournaments in Italy without one, but the big ones require it. Either way, I figured I would knock out the competition one and have it for the future, and then they would have to sign the FIVB health certificate because they’ve already said I’m fit enough to compete.

The only appointment I could get was less than a week before we were to be playing in Switzerland, so not much time if something went wrong. I showed up to the office and had a seat. Ten minutes, twenty minutes, things don’t move quickly in Italy. In Rome, government offices will give you appointment times like “8:30/9” which basically means, you show up at 8:30, but if I’m not ready until 9, you can’t complain. The doctor finally arrives and has some electrical device on his desk and then a step for step ups, so I think this should be easy enough. They take me to another room and start asking me questions. They mentioned a stress test and then take my shirt off and start suction cupping these electric wires around my chest. I’m stressed. Test worked. Then for five minutes, they are messing with the machine and saying it won’t work. At this point, I’m expecting to be shocked. We go back to the original room and get me set up on another variation of the device and nothing happens. They remove the suction cups and tell me to start doing high knees for three minutes. Mind you, I’m in regular street clothes, except they’ve had me remove my shirt and shoes and I’ve done no other physical activity today. I start doing high knees and they start asking me questions in Italian.  Like I said, my Italian is okay, but three minutes of high knees is removing all of the Italian in my brain. I am actively dripping all over this doctor’s office. They start having a conversation and I am pretty sure we go past three minutes. Then they have me lay down and suction cup me back up. It was an electro cardiogram, I’m an idiot. They ask me a few more question, I tell him I need the FIVB form signed, he gives me an odd look and asks if I’m playing for America or Italy. I tell him America, but hopefully Italy in the future. He says that’s the right answer and signs my form. Now we have all the requirements to play.

Right before Ryan arrives, I find out that Rome is rejecting my papers again and due to visa days, I will have to leave Italy again. So instead of having time to practice with Ryan, I am running around during the day getting documents in order and figuring out what I need to do. He arrives Sunday, I take care of business Monday and we grab some dinner Monday evening with our good friend (who has a bit more professional playing experience than us) Alex Ranghieri so that he could answer a million questions about our first FIVB event. Hilariously, all of the questions I was asking him were so commonplace for him that he seemed almost unsure of the answers. I was trying to make sure we did everything by the book and he just told us to go enjoy. So that was the plan.

We had moved up to Milan Tuesday to stay with Carla and be closer to Spiez, since staying in Italy is way cheaper than Switzerland and that’s where Carla lives. When we originally registered for the Italian tournament, we thought it was hilarious that we would be representing the US but with two Italian surnames in Italy, so I called our good friend Andrea Stuto to register as our coach. What could add to the hilarity more than having an Italian coach in the mix? Unfortunately, Stuto is cooler than us and had to bail last minute to go lead some physical training in the Maldives, so he didn’t come coach us, but we did get to see him for dinner in Milan. Dinner consumed, it was time to make sure we were packed and ready to go. The next day, we took a two hour train to Spiez. No backing out now.

Screensaver In Real Life

It’s a train station…they shouldn’t look this good

As I detailed in an earlier post, Switzerland is fake. It’s all a screensaver, I’m convinced. Every part is gorgeous, and the ride between Milan and Spiez was no exception. What is not gorgeous are the prices. Even with the player discount on hotels, the hotel was going to run us 240 euros per night, ouch. With the high chances of us losing, booking more than one night seemed like a big investment. Although, if you win two qualification matches, you move onto pool play and your hotel/food is comped. We were feeling brave and an extra day in Switzerland isn’t too bad, so we opted to book two nights. Right before booking, I found an Airbnb that had opened up right in the center of the city for 290 for both nights. Easy.

The view from the Airbnb balcony
A good amount of room with $290 for two nights, plus right along the river

We arrive in Switzerland, eat a pretzel and then go to register. I’m not really an anxious person when it comes to competition, but the entire day leading up to the tournament, my brain was on fire. A lot of the cool things I do aren’t fueled by bravery or some narcissistic view of myself, it’s more like an adrenaline whirlwind fueled by the fear of terror (and shame death associated with imaginary people talking shit about me). This was definitely one of those cases. I contemplated disappearing and leaving Ryan to register alone…but that didn’t happen. We booked a court to train the night before we played. First, we ventured to the main courts to register. Basically, we took a train and then had to go down a super steep hill to find the courts. I definitely have some photos here, because this is one of the most picturesque courts I’ve ever played on and they are permanently located there. Two courts at the bottom of a valley, right next to a lake with mountains as the backdrop. Insanity. A few teams are warming up as we walk by. As we walk up to the registration, I realize that I am the shortest player there by a large margin. We try on some jerseys and get a quick rundown for the next day. We received a name badge, some sports shower gel and instructions that we would receive our jersey on the court when we arrived for our game. Easy enough, we had some time before our practice court booking, so headed back to grab some snacks.

The view from these courts is insane

A train and bus ride took us to the other location of courts. Two courts in a gorgeous park in Thun. We had the reservation at 8:30pm, so it was already getting dark. There were girls practicing on the main court and a group of guys training on the warm up court. Ryan spoke to the court director while I went to get changed and one of the Lithuanian girls recognized Ryan from training in Mallorca and audibly laughed when he said we were playing the next day. After the court opened up, the group of guys sat around and watched us warm up. This year, the FIVB hastily switched to a new ball to meet the qualifications to use the ball in the next Olympics. Up until recently, it was impossible to get your hands on that ball, and I actually just got one the day before we left for Switzerland, so this was my second time using it and never in a game. I could hear the group of guys talking asking questions about us as we got started, so my anxieties became reality. Since Stuto couldn’t make it, we had no one to serve to us, so we did a pretty basic warm up practice set. Pepper, shot rundowns, shots, swings, serves. All the basic stuff made a bit more difficult by a ball that played differently. After a little more than an hour, it was already dark, so we said goodbye to the court director and took the bus back. We realized that Switzerland was not Italy and there were no food options at 10pm, so grabbed some kebabs and went home to sleep. The Airbnb had no air conditioning, so we cracked the window for some airflow and found that we were directly next to the river, so we got free river noises to sleep to.

We had our match assignment, first men’s game, 12:20pm against the Qualifiers 1 seed. The number two ranked team in Australia. I did some googling and unfortunately, there aren’t many videos of players at this level. From what I could tell, they were decent and looked pretty tall. We decided to show up a bit early to warm up and watch some games so we got everything ready in the morning, ate some food and headed to the courts. We didn’t receive our jerseys until the game and Europeans don’t usually play shirtless, so I had to decide what to wear for the warm up. We had just gotten the jerseys from Alex, so I went with that. Again, we didn’t have anyone to serve to us, so it was all basic warm up stuff, made extra weird because another team that didn’t play for 3 hours was doing a full practice session with their coach and we were using half of the court at the time. After a good warm up and serving at each other, we were about thirty minutes out from our match. The other team got on the court and started warming up. One was about six foot eight and the other was about six foot five. They definitely had us on height. No worries, we finished our warm up and went to take a break before the game. We were informed the game before us was a forfeit so we’d be on in twenty.

At this point, we’ve been given no real instruction on how anything would work. I’ve watched a lot of professional games, but I guess I never really paid attention to the tournament specifics. The woman with the jerseys awkwardly looked at me when I walked up and said she was looking for the USA team. I told her it was me and she pointed to the ITA on my jersey. I told her it was only for warm up. We had gotten blue, which matched our shorts pretty well. 

Another point that I need to make clear here is the amount of new things going on. Professional game, in another country, against people with professional experience. Refs, line judges, other officials, a crowd and an announcer. Honestly, there was so much going on that I couldn’t even hear the announcer. I have no memory of anything outside of the game itself. Ryan is famously aloof about pretty much anything. Where I am passionate and neurotic, he is unshakeable. This was definitely not the case in this situation. As my adrenaline spiked from the anxiety, I settled into a pretty calm rhythm. This is why I love arguing in games, once I hit that point, it’s nirvana. Ryan doesn’t function like that multiple days a week, so he was uncharacteristically rattled.

They told us that we had ten minutes on the court before the game started. We took some practice swings, but the other team was swinging as hard as they could and were sending the balls flying out of the court. No one went to get us more balls, so we basically stood there part of the ten minutes until I ran off to get balls. We got a few serves in until the same thing occurred. The next thing we knew, the other team was sitting down and the officials were just staring at us, apparently we were supposed to be sitting down. But not entirely, I guess I was the team captain so I had to go up to sign that we were starting the match. There was a coin flip and the other team chose receive, so I chose the side with the sun behind us as there was no wind at the time. They had us sit down and they announced the Australian team first, we at least got to see what they did. This part is pretty standard. As players are called, they usually remove hat and sunglasses, run to the service line and wave to the crowd. When they called my name, I popped off my glasses, jogged over and gave a wave. When they called Ryan, he just sort of ran over. Ever the rebel. We met the other team in the middle, shook hands and the game was to begin. I’ll link the video at the end, but the height difference was drastic.

Let The Games Begin

For the last few years since moving to Texas, I have been really working on my handsets. The more professional play I’ve watched, the more I’ve noticed that whichever team is giving better sets, is usually edging out teams. Being a good setter can help to nullify any weaknesses from passing or hitting. So I’ve put a lot of work in to have that skill, and it’s paid off in games. If you’ve ever played against Stephen and I when I’m in Cleveland and you left the net as soon as Stephen gave a less than ideal pass, you would have been immediately reminded about the value of a good set as Stephen bounced the ball in front of you. When Ryan and I practiced the night before our game, I could not give Ryan a set to save my life. I was doubling, launching the ball past him, setting lower than the net. I couldn’t get it right. So I definitely had some worries about how legal some of my sets were going to be with a professional ref watching, especially since the FIVB has gotten very strict in the last year. I only expound on this because point one Ryan put the team a little of system with his serve. This was followed by a pretty heinous set even by recreation league standards. You can tell in the video that Ryan and I both kind of stop, which you shouldn’t do at any level, and the ball is promptly hit with no whistle called. Everyone made predictions of me arguing with the ref, myself included, because I have a long and storied past of arguing with refs and players, but no argument here. I was a bit out of my element. . You can see Ryan and I discussing that our hands won’t get called as we walk back to serve receive. Next point. The player who doubled immediately serves into the net….ball doesn’t lie.

Throwing up a set for Ryan

I usually have a pretty calm serve routine and it’s usually very effective, but something about knowing there was an eight second limit after the whistle had me rushing for my serve the entire time. This led to a lot of easy serves, especially the first one. I also cheated on defense and the ball was promptly hit where I should have been. Next point essentially sees the other team getting a free ball and I make a quick dodge of the hit and it land right inside the backline.

Next up, Ryan gets dug but there’s a block touch so it has to come over. I get a trap set on the left side, but some time playing with Ahsan down in Texas has prepared me for this, so I recycle it to Ryan and it is promptly punched out of bounds, but the other guy got a net touch, point good guys. A service error sees them get the ball back. A nice rip down Ryan’s line gets him in an odd spot and the pass shoots past my face, but I’m able to take a look at the court and poke the ball into the net, dribbling right in between the players. I can tell Ryan is being a bit sporadic, so I tell him to take some breaths.

Two more service errors sees us with the ball again. Ryan serves, they toss up an option and the ball is hit just outside of my left hand as I go for the block and hits the back seam. A service error and a hitting error has us tied with the Australians. Next point, Ryan gets a block touch that is picked up…and then promptly does my least favorite Cleveland thing, leaves the net before the ball is set. The ball is immediately smashed down his line. Next point, Ryan gets blocked and it comes directly back to him, but again, there’s a lot going on and anxiety is high, so he punches it over as a free ball…again smashed down the line. Ryan takes a breath on the next point and hits a nasty cut shot that the defender can’t get.

Another important difference to professional play is that they have people in charge of getting the balls and given to you before the serve. As neither of us has ever had this and it was not explained to us, we kind of just played it how we’re used to. If there was no ball near us, we would get it from them, but if the ball was near us, we picked it up and went back to serve. On two occasions, Ryan was yelled at to switch out the ball, this was one of them. Doesn’t matter, the team realized how much taller than were than us and hit an easy line shot. Next point is an overpass, I make an attempt to get to the net in time to contest, but no luck. Easy point for mister six eight. Next serve is similar, but Ryan takes a bit off and I’m able to get a bump set off. Textbook tool off the block and it’s my turn to serve. I hit a deep corner serve and immediately hear a whistle…the ref never whistled to give me the go ahead to serve. Whoops. I get the ball back and hide it behind my back until she whistles again. This time, I lollipop a serve to the right side. He bangs it cross, I get a hand on it but no dig. “First serve was better.” I chuckle to Ryan as we walk back to receive.

A little float just over the net down the seam is the first serve I receive…it’s also the first in game serve I’ve ever received with the new Mikasa ball. I catch it low and put it a bit too far to Ryan’s left. I take my left step to line up to the set and…Ryan standing hits it several feet out of the back of the court? Like I said, he was rattled. Brand new territory for him. Next serve slams into the tape and pops up, but thankfully stays on their side.

For FIVB play since COVID, teams get a specific side that they must make switches around. Ours was to the side furthest from our seats and it was super confusing. There is a lot going on, so when you notice it’s a side switch, you have to go a specific way, regardless of where you are. There are also technical time outs once you reach a total of twenty one points, and at that point, you go back to your seat. If your side to switch is away from your seats and you go to just switch normal, you’re now very far from your seat and have to run back, which we did both games.

After the technical timeout, I walk back to serve. Fun fact: in beach volleyball, there is no penalty for serving out of order since technically the rules specify that the refs are responsible for keeping track of service order. There are actual refs here, so they tell me it’s Ryan’s turn. Aussies go with a back set and it is bounced into the hard angle where both players have been hitting most of the time. No worries, first game is for feeling out the team. Next serve comes to me. Middle pass, I step in for the set, but it goes wide and high and we’re on the side looking into the sun. No call so I try for a cut and it’s picked up. I go for the line block but it’s again bounced into the hard angle. Insert Sam bitching about no call after the set here. Next one comes down my seam again, but might deeper. I adjust my hips but I’m still not used to this ball so it goes a bit too far right. Ryan cleans it up with a back bump set and having just heard the no call bitching gives a line call. Nice little toss to the back corner is launched out of the court as the defender uses his inside arm to try to flipper. 

I never close my mouth when I play volleyball

My float serve is tossed up in the middle, Ryan doesn’t even make an attempt to block and the ball is hit directly at me. I get my platform that, but forearms are rotated too far internally. With a wilson, that goes right to the center, but with the Mikasa, it enters the stands. I loudly yell the F word. This is important to call out because I usually don’t swear on the court and you can get in trouble for it at this level, but I have yelled a swear word almost every other point at this point in the game and Ryan and I have been waiting for the ref to say something. Still nothing here even though it was pretty vocal. Next up, Ryan launches a seam ball just a few inches too deep, but the blocker isn’t being intentional with his hands and gets a touch on it.

Both of these guys have enough height and vertical on us that they could have just rolled everything over us with just a little pace, but instead they were going for bounces. The set goes out wide and I run with the hitter. He swings outside of my hands and bounces it just outside of the line. Ryan hits a nice inside out serve to the blocker’s line and he tosses the ball up to the middle, almost exactly the same as last time the right side slammed an option passed me into the seam. This time I acknowledge he’s only opened for the seam and reach my left hand in. Terminal block to the back of the court. Toss it on the stat sheet. I am a professional blocker. Unfortunately, next ball they learned their lesson. A weird little cutty just over my hands lands in front of Ryan. He’s still confused that these guys aren’t putting any pace on the ball and didn’t realize he would’ve gotten there fast enough.

After I pass another seam float like garbage, the next point is full of madness, but let me preface this part first. There are two camps as far as the morality of volleyball go on certain things. Most people will say “There is a ref, if they don’t see something, I’m not calling it. It’s their job.” Some people believe in calling their own stuff. I probably land somewhere in the middle. I’m not going out of my way but I won’t lie. Back to the game. I pass the ball middle, Ryan throws a super high double into a trap set by the pin. I poke it into the block and out of bounds but catch the net with my elbow on the way down. I call my net touch and start to walk away. The ref says it is my point, but I tell her I got net and the Aussie blocker also tells her I got net. The ref is super confused. I walk back to serve receive. After getting the video, I noticed the double, but I also noticed that when the blocker went up and got tooled, he put both of his arms into the net. So while I was running blind to a trap set, I assumed I got net due to the weird situation, when in reality, I got net because it was bouncing into me from him getting it with both arms. The audacity of this man to repeat that I got net when there’s no way he didn’t realize he got it with both arms. 

Quick little recycle
Quick little recycle

Another middle pass, another high set, but this time no trap. I slam it outside of the defender’s center line and he passes it out of the court. The rundown set goes a bit off of the net so I peel. This guy has done nothing but try to bounce the line so I’m cheated and low and he waffles a deep one at my chest. I get hands on it, but leave them together like an idiot. Time for more peel drills post game. The pass goes up to the net but with a bit too much forward momentum for Ryan to reach. Ryan tries to swing the next one down the seam and goes directly into the block. I’m immediately sad that this guy now has as many blocks as me. Immediately following being blocked, Ryan calls for a timeout. The score is 13-20. I ask him why he wants the timeout. He says this is their longest run and walks back to our seats. After sitting down, he realizes what the score is.

For the duration of these two games, Ryan was so psyched out about getting a double called that he was launching all of my sets about two times as high as they needed to be. This is usually pretty disadvantageous for a smaller player because it lets the blocker set up where the set will be, solidifying their height advantage, and it removes most of the hitter’s vision because they’re having to look straight up at the ball and losing peripheral vision of the court as the go up to attack, not to mention that the ball gains speed as it drops from a higher point, so it forces timing to be more exact. The extra variable in this match was the stadium. The bleachers and such tend to block out most of the wind on the actual court, but once you get above the height of the bleachers, there’s some wind movement, so the ball is affected at the vertex. Adjusting for wind is part of the game, adjusting for wind on some small percentage of the game is a bit more mental work. Nerd rant over, the next set goes really high and Ryan gives a line call. I shoot the line but the defender is already there. Ryan gets a hand on it, but is unstable so the ball is launched out of the back of the court. Game one, 13-21.

Again, But Better This Time

We take a seat and get some water. One of the officials comes and stands directly in front of us with her arms crossed and says nothing. I am immediately convinced I am about to be scolded for the amount of swearing I am doing on the court. I look at Ryan. His eyes are telling me that we’re on the same page. I stare back at her and she says “Your choice.”. They chose serve receive for first game so it was our pick. Again, there’s no real side advantage and Ryan requests that we serve first. Statistically, at this level, a team should have 65-75% chance of scoring the point when serve receiving (unless the opposing server is Evandro or Jake Gibb). For these reasons, I refuse to tell them we pick serve, so I pick the same side as last time and they obviously pick receive, so we still get serve.

Ryan serves the blocker and he goes for another line bounce….again a few inches out. He serves the defender…who goes for a line bounce, which goes a few inches out. Serve three of game one, Ryan slams his serve down the middle, but goes to high so it is definitely going out…but it has a slight curve to it and the defender is already too locked out on his receive to move, so it bounces off his shoulder and leaves the court. Ryan’s fourth serve trickles the net and heads to the line but the blocker gets it up. The set goes outside so he is forced wide. I line up the block, but he decides to take some off it, so my timing is off by about a second. The ball goes perfectly between my thumbs and skims off the top of my head onto the back line. I tell him he gave me a haircut and he doesn’t even crack a smile. Another serve into the net and it’s my turn. The blocker passes into the net and set goes tight. Ryan goes for the joust with his outside hand and the blocker is entirely over him. I get a hand on the resulting touch but not soft enough to get it back to Ryan. The ref makes no call on the open hand, so we head back to receive. Ryan passe middle, gets a set in the middle and I call him line. We’re at 4-2 game 2 and Ryan has gone line exactly 0 times this match….and this point was no difference. He hits cross inside the block and out the back of the court. 4-3 switch. 

A shanked pass puts us to 4-4. Next pass goes to the perfect spot, but we’re on the side with the sun, which is now directly overhead. I acknowledge that I can’t see the ball at all, but my hands are already up, so I’m a bit trapped. Ball goes directly through my hands and we’re at 4-5 from up 4-1. I’d be embarrassed about this point, but Jake Gibb did it at the Olympics in Tokyo, so I feel honored. Ryan passes the next one to his line. When we first started playing together, this was his favorite place to pass, so I’ve got a lot of reps setting from here. I dive under the next and get my platform on it. I get him a decent middle set and he…standing pokes it 20 feet into the air? At this point, I’m directly under the net, so when I roll over to give him the call, I see the blocker hit the net with his arms on the way up. Having read the FIVB manual, I immediately run back to defend throwing up the C with my hand for the challenge. I run into the cross and am a half step too late for the dig. It hits my thumbs and is dead. I immediately engage the ref requesting the challenge on the net touch and just as quickly, she tells me no. Not “There was no net touch”, just “No.”. She waves me back to receive. I’m entitled to 2 challenges, but again there’s a lot going on, so I didn’t push it.

Next point, Ryan over passes, I run to get it if it’s on our side and Ryan stays where he passed it, so the option is bounced to the open court. We walk back to serve receive and the ref doesn’t whistle for the other team to serve. We’re all staring at her and nothing. Then the officials all start speaking to each other, we’re still told nothing. The top ref is waved down to the table and runs over. We’re still told nothing. I’m convinced that the officials are now checking the video and saw the net touch I called the challenge on, but since the top ref completely ignored me and had us play another point, she can’t overturn the previous point anymore. They go back and forth, still saying nothing to us. Two minutes later, the top ref returns to her stand and whistles for them to serve. At no point did anyone tell us what was happening or what was going on, but we’re pretty sure it had to do with my ignored challenge.

Next one is a great pass from Ryan, the blocker is still not being intentional with his hands so Ryan easily goes off the fingers and it goes the opposite direction of the defender. Another bounce down our seam and the next serve comes to me. This time Ryan gives me the lower middle set I actually like, but I’m lined up for the high outside sets he’s been giving me. I dart inside and since it’s a lower set, I have complete vision of the court. I jump up with the blocker and cut the ball to the right side. My turn to serve, but I head back and we all realize it’s a switch. I’ve tossed balls back to the ball people all game, but at this point, it was my turn to serve, so I just walk to the other side with it. No one yells at me, but as we cross sides, the top ref notices and audibly laughs (check for it in the video at 24:18).

I finally get some pace on a serve and it goes up in the middle, this time for the blocker. Remember last time that he slammed it right at me and I was too tense and didn’t get the easy dig. This time, he runs up with a slide and smashes it right outside of my center line. I dive right and get it up to the center with a one hander (an old favorite of mine). Ryan turns of the block and bump sets the ball….to the left side of the court and twice as high as the dig. Insert tears emoji here. I’m just getting up from the dig and now not only don’t have vision but I’m running to a set away from my hitting arm. Ryan gives me a call, but it’s “Come on, come on”, which doesn’t exactly mean anything to me as a hitter. I got for the deep line and miss it by about a foot, which probably didn’t matter because it would have been directly to the blocker. I chuckle at Ryan as we walk back to receive.

Next pass goes just in front of Ryan and I don’t see him take the right step as I go for the set, because he’s a left side who always kicks out to the left. He doesn’t give a behind call until the ball is about to touch my platform, so he ends up getting the same set I just got as I try to change the outside set to a back set. Same as me, he’s coming from the right to a high set with no vision. He recycles the ball of the block and yells “Come on” for me to get the block cover. I get low and get the block cover, shout out Beachbox Camps. I look over to see if Ryan will get the set off and he’s facing out of court. Pika shocked. Back to serve receive. I give Ryan a tighter pass but he gets low and handsets a height I like. I got for my own hard angle bounce and realize I haven’t opened my shoulder to swing once yet. I catch some tape but the ball lands in the first three meters. Hardest angle point of the game, count it.

Good contact is key
Good contact is key

Blocker goes for a hard angle swing again, but I time the block better this time and get it. Unfortunately, he was swinging deep, so it goes right back to him. I switch the call to line and Ryan forgets that all they do is swing hard angle. Ball lands about four feet to his left. Next serve goes to Ryan and I give him a middle set. I give the line over call and he swings directly into the block I just told him about. I gently weep inside as I remember Ryan’s line shot count is still at 0, 7-12 game 2. Ryan throws his next pass up as an option, but doesn’t say a word. I run up late and poke a high cut. I’m trapped up at the net trying not to go into it and Ryan doesn’t move from where he passed it, another easy point for mister six eight.

Next ball comes to me, Ryan gives me another set I like and the blocker doesn’t reach outside of me or leave my viewline. A few feet of open court to my right and I drop it there again. Cue another technical timeout that we go the wrong way for and have to run back to our seats. After the time out, I go for a quick seam ball, catch tape and get the trickle ace. It’s bullshit, but I’m not sorry. I go back to serve again and for some reason go even lighter than my trickle serve. Rookie mistake. Next serve goes to Ryan, lower fast pass up to the net. I get there in time and toss the set up. As I go to make a call, I realize Ryan is in front of me, so he is definitely in front of the ball. He awkwardly steps back and outside, another shot from the ground, several feet out. I can actively hear Ryan breathing from serve receive now. The anxiety from the game paired with the fatigue from the amount he has been served is visually adding up. With this team going for nonstop showballs, our major key to success is to let them make errors and not make our own. Another reminder to take a breath.

Another seam serve my way. I take a step out instead of in and the high set drifts inside middle. Ryan gives the deep like call, but with the set drifting, anything line is going into the block or so high that I could go pick it up after I shoot it. I go for a little cut but the defender gets it on the dive. He hits a lofty line shot but I’m too dug into to take the two steps to get it. 59 points into this match and this guy hits his first shot. Next serve is down the seam to me again, but Ryan reaches in and passes the ball up to my side of the net. I’ve already taken the step into the seam so I’m nowhere near getting it. Ryan tells me to call him off…I retort that it’s my middle on that serve and his line. As if the server heard me, he hits a perfect float serve right down Ryan’s line next. Ryan gets there with an outstretched arm but not enough to get the ball up. A service error ends their ace streak and sees us switch sides.

Ryan has an odd toss and a mishit to repay them the favor on the missed serve. Deep float to Ryan goes tight on the pass. Following a set, I yell line. At this point, I’m not even looking. Ryan hasn’t gone line single time, the defender is camped in the cross before the set is even off. He goes for the same cut shot he went for before, but now he’s fatigued so it goes out by about a foot. I’m telling Ryan how he has half a court to his left before I’m even turned around. We both walk back to serve receive and as I look across the court, the Aussies are also standing to serve receive. Nothing is said to me, so I assume a net touch by the blocker, who has already had a few at this point, and head back to serve. 

Ryan goes for a cut shot

I hit a deep float to the guy who has hit exactly one shot. I see the set go out wide and his chest open up the same way it did game one when I got a hand on it and slide a bit more to my right. He slams the ball about a foot in front of me and to my right,  I drop to get my platform under but don’t get my hips under it enough. The dig is up and to the center. Luckily, it’s high so the blocker has an easy swing, but has no vision, which gives some advantage to the blocker. This is one of the reasons why you’ll see most pro blockers do a block redirect here versus swinging blindly into a block on these types of points. I stumble up and yell for Ryan to go, because from my vantage point, this is a ball he needs to attack. I look over to see if he’s going to attack or set me and realize it’s just over. I also notice in that moment that Ryan has done that stupid Cleveland thing I mentioned earlier where he just left the net instead of going for the block. So instead of contesting the ball, Ryan is in no man’s land and I’m stumbling up from my dig to defend the whole court. The blocker swings seam, catches tape and I’m only able to get a hand on it. Point not converted.

Next serve comes to me, decent set height but is drifting into the block. As I approach, the blocker is again in my midline and not actually in my line. He reaches to get to the ball before I’m at the top and I push the cut into his outstretched hand. The defender knows I have nowhere else to go, but the push off the hands drops the ball within a meter shorter than he was anticipating so he barely gets a hand on it. Shout out Ahsan again for all the trap set training. Ryan puts the blocker in some service trouble on the next point, but he gets an outside set and I’m trapped in the middle from watching the option. He swings line and tags it. Game over.

We shake hands with the team and then with the refs and line judges. I run off to thank the ball people and Ryan follows as the other team heads back to their seats. The officials head towards the table. After we say our thanks, I realize there was one more and start looking around…as I’m looking around, I realize everyone is back to their seats and we are standing on the opposite side like lost puppies. All of the officials are staring at us. I run back to the seats and since I have to sign the official papers again and Ryan is still over on the side looking lost. Everything handled, we go back to our seats to get our stuff. An Oakley case is sitting on my seat and I wonder why I would have left the case on the seat. As I pick it up, one of the Egyptian players up next says it is his. I chuckle as I explain the confusion and grab my things to go sit in the shade. 

The Aftermath

We had some friends speciating so we went to the stands and chatted with them before heading to the lake. We jump in and I immediately realize I’m still not cooled down from the sun. The water is in the sixty to seventy degree range and requires swimming the whole time. We chat about the game and after a few minutes, I realize my odds of cramping are rapidly increasing and take to the stairs. We stick around for a few hours to finish watching the qualifiers and hang out with friends. It starts pouring so we hide in a nearby tent to continue watching. As I realize we’re sitting in the tech tent, I ask the tech guy if the games will be available after that date as they were live on Youtube and you couldn’t go back to previous games. He tells me that due to copyright stuff, the game plays live and is gone forever so they don’t worry about copyright issues with music. I ask if there’s some sort of local copy that we could steal since we played at 5am US time and he says no. After a few minutes, he says “Actually, we had a weird issue today where it recorded the first half of the day. If you have a flash drive or something, you could take it, but you have to find your own game.”. Luckily, Ryan has all the tech gadgets so we did and he said we could come the next day to get our game. 

We stuck around to see how some of the teams we had met ended up and the Australians that beat us ended up playing the only other team that was about our size and didn’t end up making the main draw. The beauty of beach volleyball. After the long day, we head back to the train to go home. As we’re getting on the train, two girls with volleyballs are behind us and just say “Hey, volleyball” as they step on behind us. We find out they are the Canadian team in the main draw and tell them that as the only other North American team, we’re now rooting for them. A few of the top main draw players were on the train as well as they had to go register.

A quick stop for Indian food has us remember why we don’t venture to Switzerland much. Twenty to thirty euros per plate for mediocre Indian food. Ouch. Oh well, we pay and venture around the town a bit. We stop to watch some surfers riding dam waves and then roam around a bit more before opting to go home.

The dam waves

The next day we get up and pack our things. The Airbnb host says we can just keep our key since we will be leave two hours after checkout. We decide to head to the tournament early to get the video and show up in the middle of the first game. There are quite a few Swiss teams in the main draw, so the fans are filled with locals…and many screaming children. We got the video from the tech guy and ventured around the lake for a bit. Ryan stopped to fly his drone around and get some nice videos of the area (which I think are on his Instagram if you’re into that stuff). We had randomly picked some teams to support the previous day, so we stuck around to watch them before running off to the other location to watch the Canadian girls. We were told there was a bus between the two locations, but when I asked about it, I was met with a blank stare.

Since the main courts were in a valley, it was a bit of a brutal walk up to the bus station. We followed Google’s instructions and waited at an unmarked bus station. After a few minutes, we began to wonder if this bus was going to drive right past us. A local from a balcony yelled that the train station was at the top of the hill. We told him we needed a bus and he pointed across the roundabout to a stop. Then he yelled that there was one coming and we sprinted off to catch it and it was the one we needed. Thanks, random balcony man.

A gorgeous bus ride and we get to the courts we had warmed up on. Before we left, I reminded Ryan to grab his player badge because it was required for free admission. He doesn’t love listening so definitely didn’t do that. I flashed my badge, which at the other venue was enough for them to let us both in, but for this one, she immediately looked at Ryan and said “You’re a player, too?”. I withheld my urge to tell her that he is too short to be a player and explained that we play together and she let us both in. 

We made our way to the courts and the Canadian team was down in the first game. This venue was much quieter. No one in the stands and other things going on. In fact, the courts existed in a large park that was entirely filled with people sunbathing and swimming. We stuck around and cheered a bit, but they lost the first and couldn’t eek out the win in the second. The court director we met while training mentioned to us that there was also an international high diving competition at the venue so we walked over to watch some of that. My grandfather and uncle used to high dive, but I’ve never seen it in person. It was madness. Standing at the very top of this structure, the divers would just stare off like in a meditative state, and hop off, flipping through the air into the pool below. Humans do some cool stuff.

The view from the park at the second courts

A quick bus ride back to the hotel and we stop for some snacks. The Airbnb host informs me that the guests taking our room are early and ask us to give the keys directly to them. Weird, but no problem. We walk in and there are three girls sitting in the common area. As we walk towards are room, they ask “Do you have our key?” and I tell them we do, but need to grab our things first. When we were told we had the room until we left, I didn’t think about the fact that they’d want to clean it still, so we just left our things mostly packed on the table. The Airbnb owner put all of our things in the closet, so now there was an extra layer of checking that we grabbed everything. The girls then proceeded to just stand in the doorway as Ryan and I packed up our things. Mine were mostly packed, so I just grabbed it and handled it in the living room. I hate people being over my shoulder. After a few minutes, Ryan walked in and asked why I did that to him. Whoops. The girls then proceeded to hang out in the common area, so there was no reason for them to hover over us. Oh well. We catch the train and make our way back to Milan.

Two more days hanging out with Carla in Milan and then I was off to Morocco. Rome had rejected my papers again, so I was playing the visa day game again. Ryan headed off back to Switzerland to catch his cheap flight to the US from Zurich and that was the quick trip to become professional USA volleyball players.

The boys are pros now

I’ll be trying to be a bit more consistent with these blog posts for the time being so next up is Morocco, getting laid off and a trip to Serbia. Until next time, friends!

If you’re interested in watching the game, you can find it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6eCjWKOiYM

On The Road Again

A farewell to cool dogs, Lady Bird Lake and my favorite downtown to see the sunset hit

It’s been quite a bit since I’ve written one of these…and if you go back to the first one, the writing was not so good…so I’d expect the same here as I get back into this. It’s not that I haven’t been adventuring, but I have been finding it difficult to sit down and write. This month, there have been a few milestones…and humans have the easiest time starting things when there is a milestone so it seemed like the perfect time to start writing here again.

This month, I turned 30 and moved out of Austin…to live in Italy. Over the last two years of bloglessness, I have been practicing Italian. After meeting a few Italians via volleyball and other friends, I started coming to Italy every other month to practice the language and see the country. The more time I spent here, the more I felt aligned with my heritage. Learning Italian in Texas is a bit difficult and I was becoming a bit exhausted with America and missing adventure. I did some work to get all of my documentation lined up and am going to get my Italian citizenship by descent while I live here. Outside of that little update, this blog post is going to cover the trip out to Italy.

The trailer made it from Austin all the way to my sister’s house in Olmsted Falls

At the beginning of August, Ryan came down to Texas and I did a little farewell tour to Austin. I spent some time with all the various friends I met, ate at all of my favorite restaurants and sold a lot of my things. Needless to say, I spent too much time doing fun stuff and packing didn’t take priority. Ryan and my dear friend Becca did all of the packing while I lolligagged around last minute. One day, I’ll stop procrastinating…but as long as it keeps working out, probably not. We attached a trailer to my Encore and set off on the twenty four hour drive back to Cleveland. Pretty boring drive, but it preempted the three weeks I got to spend in Cleveland with my family and enjoying the city for the first time in summer in four years. The three weeks were mostly filled with family time, volleyball, a dadchelor trip to West Virginia, and a wedding celebration.

Shout out Guardians for a win when I took my Dad for our birthdays

When I decided to move to Italy, I had no idea where I wanted to live(spoilers: I still don’t), so I came to Italy a bunch to check it out. To finish my citizenship, I have to have a lease and have to stay in the same city for four to six months while they finish all of the processing. I decided that I should spend a month somewhere while I get comfortable being in a foreign country before signing a lease, so Ryan agreed to spend the month in a small town we visited earlier this year called Cesena. We came here in February to visit our friend Andrea that we met via Beachbox Camps and he agreed to train us if we lived here for a month. Last time I was in Europe, I realized I had been to twenty seven countries. This gave me the idea to hit three more countries before we got to Cesena so that I’d hit my thirtieth country just after my thirtieth birthday. The battle plan was to leave Cleveland on August 29th.

Like any of my travel stories, they don’t go as planned. I spent the day of the 29th saying goodbye to my family and finishing up packing (see earlier for other procrastination references). An hour before I was supposed to meet Ryan at the airport, the flight got delayed by two hours. No big deal, just some more time to spend with family. After clicking into the app to check on the exact time of the delay, I saw another message stating that the delay pushed us into a storm, so the flight was canceled. After interacting with support for the booking site and the airline, nothing had changed. They booked us for a flight the next evening, which would have us in London later than we were even planning to stay there. Ryan headed to the airport and got an agent to get us another flight in the morning to Oslo, Norway so we wouldn’t miss our plans there. Once that was settled, we spent the evening playing Mario Party and eating pizza with my family, so overall, not too bad.

Prior to leaving, my dear sweet nephew, Max, couldn’t help but be a little plague bearer (because that’s what children do) and so I left Cleveland pretty congested. We got to the airport the next morning, no problems and headed off to an eight hour layover in New York. My work wife, Chelsea, also happened to be in New York for the weekend and was heading to Europe that afternoon. The plan was to hop into the city, hang out and then take an Uber back to the airport with Chelsea since she was heading to the same airport. What I didn’t plan for was the pressure change of a plane descending to smash my eustachian tubes with the congestion, making me feel like I permanently had an earbud in my ear. So basically, my few hours in New York were spent feeling like I had my head underwater and I couldn’t hear anything. Regardless, we met up with Chelsea and her friend, Rachel for drinks with a view of the Brooklyn Bridge and wandered around the city for a few hours.

I guess I see why people visit New York

The taxi and flight were pretty uneventful. At some point in the air, the pressure had changed enough that I was able to clear my ears and finally feel normal again. It was all a ruse though. As we descended, my ears became congested again, but this time both of them. This time accompanied by a brutal pressure in my head. Not a fan, but not too bad.

Bring Me Your Best

Of all of my travels, I have only checked two bags. One when I moved to Austin…and one for this trip. I thought I could just ship a package to Italy after I arrived…but right before I left, I found out that would cost me upwards of fifteen hundred dollars. So this trip, I had my regular travel bag (around thirty pounds), my Yeti laptop bag (another twenty) and a large checked bag (almost exactly fifty pounds). This is important because it dictated some of our movement for the week. 

Back to the actual trip, we landed in Oslo, got all of our bags to a nice hotel that our friend Jenny booked for us. With little to no sleep and both of my ears congested to the point where I couldn’t hear, Ryan and I head off to a tournament. We ubered to the event and walked up. We got lucky and it was around 75 degrees, which is rare for an evening in Oslo at the end of August. We made it a priority to make it to this tournament because the Olympic gold medalists are from Norway and they would be playing. This was also a threes tournament where you randomly got different teammates of various skill levels every game.

Exhausted and with the inability to hear, being social wasn’t really on the menu. Everyone there spoke English well but were obviously defaulting to Norwegian. I got the chance to play against both olympians, but it’s always difficult with random teammates to play a solid game. Ryan didn’t get so lucky. Seven or eight games later and the tournament came to an end. We stuck around to play a game with our friend Jenny and Adrian that we met in Zanzibar earlier this year. After the event, we roamed our way back to the hotel. It was around 10pm…everything was mostly closed. We tried ordering things but didn’t have texting in Norway…so ended up getting pizzas and kebabs. Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs, so we definitely got a bit too much.

The next day, we stored our bags and headed to the Oslo city center. My favorite thing to do is go to a single point of interest and then just walk as we find other things. So we headed to an area of Oslo called Barcode and roamed around. The architecture of Oslo is gorgeous, it’s like a mix of modern and older European. It’s a bit odd because they will make buildings that look like older European cities but are obviously new. The city is surrounded by water and nature, which is always a beautiful backdrop. There are also places to sit everywhere, which seems so odd. Around 3pm on a Thursday, the area was full of people just sitting around. Norway has a really interesting situation because it was one of the poorest countries in Europe before they found all of the oil. After getting all of that oil money, they made a lot of decisions with the good of the people in mind, which seems a bit wild coming from America. Every citizen has a large pension set for them and they did a lot to improve the quality of life there, knowing that eventually the oil will run out. It seems crazy that like 5 Norwegians didn’t take all that money but I guess we don’t all capitalism so well.  Anyways, after that, our friend, Adrian, met up with us and we walked around the city a bit more. He left because he had to get ready for a Rome trip and we realized we had walked about 15 miles so we headed back to the hotel and ate some food.

Norwegians sitting around with some nature

The next day, we had a flight around 6pm, so we went to find some Norwegian waffles with yogurt and strawberry on one half (amazing) and caramelized cheese on the other (not so much). After we tried this, the weather turned gloomy. Our hotel was actually attached to an IMAX and despite my deep love of movies, I had never been to one. Ryan doesn’t really love movies, but it’s raining, so too bad. We looked up some movie times and NOPE was playing in IMAX and ended right at the time we needed to leave. So we packed our stuff, brought it to the main desk and headed over. Norway apparently treats their concession stands like a convenient store filled with snacks, which is pretty cool, and after posting that, I found out apparently a lot of Europe does too. We saw this movie, it was great, and then hopped in a taxi on our way to the airport.

A Land of Castles and Friends

Next stop: Estonia. This one has been on the list for a while. We’ve met a lot of Estonians via Beachbox Camps, since they’re neighboring countries. I had heard it was all castles, so what’s not to love. The part we were a bit quieter about (shout out Americans lack of geographical knowledge) is that Estonia borders Russia and Russia wasn’t so happy with them when we arrived. I wasn’t particularly worried, but no reason to make loved ones worried. Anyways, we flew in, walked around some castles and found the closest open restaurant….an American themed pub. Whatever, food is food. The next day our friend, Merike, picked us up with her boyfriend and we met her beach volley partner and some others from Beachbox Camps at the indoor facility they play at. Upon walking in, I noticed it looked strikingly similar to the one in Riga, Latvia, which I found out is because it is owned by Renars, who runs Beachbox Camps. Small world. We played an hour or two of sideout and then Martin gave us a tour of Tallinn.

This looks quite familiar

During the tour, we stopped for some lunch and walked by the seaside. They had some historic battleships that we were just allowed to climb all over. I always enjoy these things because Americans would die or break things if you let them do this. As proof, I immediately climbed into a gunner seat to mess around. Other than this, jet lag was starting to hit me and Estonia doesn’t share the same love of seats as Norway, but luckily we found some public bean bag chairs overlooking the sea to get some fresh air. After this, we saw some other volleyball places and then went to relax in the hotel. A few hours later, we ordered a straight up American portion of food and met our friends for a board game night. Other than Mafia, I haven’t played board games in any other language and we immediately realized that if we played in English, we likely hold an advantage, but if we played in Estonian, we just can’t play. After some solid hospitality and friend time, it was time to head home to sleep before an early flight.

We flew into Venice and grabbed a train to Rimini, the Myrtle Beach of Europe. One chill night here walking along the beach before heading to Cesena for our month long stay. After this, I spent the month in Cesena, hit Belgium to see Amine and my thirtieth country. At the end of the month, I headed back to Austin for 5 days and immediately flew back to Spain for Beachbox Mallorca. These things will just be covered in an IG post in favor of writing more vaguely about Italy and living here. Thanks for reading while I knock the rust off. Ciao ciao!

The plaza in front of our Cesena apartment

New Game+ (Or Is It Weird To Be Back?)

You wake up in Bangkok, Hanoi, Dharamshala. You wake up in Riga, Milan, La Spezia. If you wake up at a different time, in a different place, could you wake up as a different person? These lines similarly echo one of the first scenes of the Chuck Palahniuk/David Fincher collab “Fight Club”. This scene popped up in my head frequently as I would wake up in different countries day after day. Most mornings, I was in a different city, if not a different country. Was I the same person in Koh Phangan, Thailand that I was in Vienna, Austria? Will I be the same person in Cleveland, Ohio tomorrow that I was before roaming the planet for one hundred and sixty seven days with just my trusty backpack? I hope not. For the last month, I have woken up in the same place, and to be honest, my brain is still adjusting to being the same person. That difference, however subtle, is what the post will be focused on.

I did a way better job of keeping up with this blog while traveling than I originally thought that I would, only missing the weekly post a few times and usually making up for it with a longer post. So I didn’t write a blog post about Madrid or New York, but it wasn’t too blog worthy. In Madrid, I walked around like I always do, I ate a lot of food and I went out to the second biggest club in Europe to cap off all of my traveling. I had an uneventful trip to the airport and flight to New York, stayed with a friend and got to watch pros play volleyball and was able to see my buddy, Chaim, who helped improve my game in Thailand, play some other pros. There’s an Instagram/Facebook post about it but otherwise, we’re just starting with me being back in Cleveland. This post is titled after the ever famous “New Game+” mode where games would let you restart the story, bringing along your experience, skills and items from the previous playthrough. I have returned to Cleveland, the same story, but with more experience and skills (but definitely not more items).

Where Do You Get All Of This Energy?

“All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring.” Does that last sentence sound familiar? That’s the inspiration for the somewhat odd blog name. Chuck Palahniuk single handedly got me back into reading in college. His unique, often dark, writing style and view of the world helped to guide me when I wasn’t sure what kind of person I wanted to be, or would be happy being. I think about this quote often, my driving force for continuously doing more when I just want to lay on the ground and do nothing. If you knew me at all before I left, you would remember that there wasn’t much time left unused. Wake up, stretch, go to work, go work out, play volleyball, hang out with friends, work on whatever side project/new thing I was learning, sleep for five hours, repeat. I was living most people’s entire week in a single day. A driving force was something I had found, or maybe become. The drive to never be boring may have gotten a little out of control. My ever constant movement usually made me miss enjoying things, being focused on what was next on the plate, and quite frequently left my mental state in somewhat of disarray. I have the passion and determination to be an unstoppable force, but do I have the clarity and persistence to be an immovable object?

I like titling these things after sentences that have been said to me, or are said frequently, and I constantly get asked where I get all of my energy. Peaks of energy are not something I tend to experience. Some might say intermittent fasting is the cause, as it has been a mainstay in my life since 2012, but if my energy levels change with my diet, I don’t seem to notice. I either do something, or I don’t, having the energy is never the question. I firmly believe most of that is mental, as mental strength is something I have heaps of as far as determination. The image of Goku flexing and an aura of ki energy bursting around him when he is beaten and bruised always tends to pop up in my head in those instances when most people say they don’t have the energy to continue. Where the body is weak, the mind must be strong. This explosion of energy and determination is great in situations where you must push beyond your limits, but that passionate fire isn’t the answer for every situation. A campfire that refuses to go out in cold winds keeps people warm, an uncontrollable wildfire leaves destruction in its wake. All things with balance.

Preemptive no, I am not an immovable object. I did not become a stoic monk in the mountains of India. I still come off as overly aggressive when you catch me being competitive. I still can not stop talking about something when it is currently piquing my interest. However, I am aware of these things now. Most people would guess that sitting in Rishikesh, India, learning yoga and meditation and the philosophy behind both are the cause of this increased awareness. You would be right, but I think the entirety of the trip are the cause. Whether it was learning to go with the flow because nothing goes as planned in Asia or listening to someone wow me with information about something that I personally don’t believe in (read as: previously would have laughed in your face if you even began talking to me about it) because I promised to go into every situation with an open mind, all of things things helped make the change.

One thing I always disliked about my constantly working brain was that I am fully immersed in things that I like, but in that constant movement, I never slowed down to appreciate what was happening. Much of the trip exists in small snippets of memories, or just these blog posts, because I didn’t stop to appreciate it when it was happening. I still do this, and I am sure it will happen forever, but for much of the trip, I got much better at consciously appreciating things while they were happening. I am sure it annoyed everyone around me, as I would often say it out loud, but I stopped to consciously appreciate. To withhold my ever present radiation of energy, even if just for a moment, to take a mental picture, to acknowledge that I am somewhere I had never been, that I might never be again, that people dream of. For all of the bad things that happened, all of the difficult days, I was lucky. When the power went out in Dharamshala (a frequent occurrence) and I was freezing on my walk home, I was grateful to look up at the stars with no light pollution with my Lasik-fixed eyes and freeze in a peaceful place.

I Bow To The Divine In You

No, I didn’t drink the Kool-Aid, although I would have loved a glass of Kool-Aid when I was sitting in India. As with all things, I took the pieces of my yoga training that I aligned with or admired and tried to incorporate them into my life. If you have ever been to a yoga class, or seen a yoga post, or even heard someone mock someone who does yoga, you have heard the word “namaste”. Bowing to another person with this word is not an uncommon occurrence in some areas of India. The combination means “I bow to the divine in you”. Essentially, thanking the other person for this interaction. If I learned one thing on this trip, and hopefully I learned a few more since that is what this whole post is about, it is that everyone enjoys being appreciate and nobody appreciates quite as much as they could. Appreciate more, thank more, acknowledge the good things people do more. A common suggestion when giving a criticism is to pair it with a compliment. If you can, leave off the criticism. If you see someone do something well, even if it is expected or not as good as someone else near them, point it out. If you see someone doing something you have seen them do before and they are doing it better, point it out. If someone does something for you, even if it is minuscule or their job, thank them. It takes a ton of mental fortitude to push yourself to do things all day and even a single notice is usually enough to re-energize someone. It costs you nothing to smile and be kind to something.

People Will Stare At Me

The amount of people who won’t work out at a gym because “people will stare at me” has always surprised me. Let me prefix my actual point by telling you that anyone staring at you at the gym is either mindlessly looking, has a tip for you but won’t tell you because of gym etiquette or thinks you’re doing something wrong because they don’t know what they’re doing. Keep going, then they’ll stare because they’re impressed. While I don’t remember ever feeling that way about the gym but it has certainly stopped me from doing other things. I have definitely skipped events because I was so in my head about everyone staring at me and how all of my imaginary brain people would ridicule me and I would die from actual shame. I mention this in the Learning To Learn post but if you are that worried about this stuff, and don’t mind throwing yourself in the deep end like I like to do, I have a suggestion. Go live in Asia for a few months. Not the touristy areas. Do what Ryan and I did, take a motorbike through the actual countries of Asia. Go to cities where they may have never seen a white person other than on television. After a few weeks of entire restaurants of people turning their heads as you walk by, you can do anything without fear of people staring, because they will be staring. Then come back to America or Europe and try your hardest to worry about people staring at you.

What Do You Miss Most?

The most frequent question when you tell someone you have been traveling for over five months. I hate answering these types of questions. They are mostly asked by people who personally don’t know me, so when I answer “laying on a couch watching movies” or “taking a hot bath when I’m sick”, all I got is a weird look. None of the things I missed are what people think they would be, they are the things that were constants in my life. Of course I missed my family and friends, but thanks to the internet, I was able to keep in contact with them. I couldn’t lay on my Simba pillow, no hot baths anywhere, and watching movies on a tablet is not the best. The duration of the trip really brought to light the things that I missed most.

The bright side of this is that now I know which things to intentionally make time for. I never really had a problem with it, but now I have no hesitation about it. I wasn’t a big drinker when I left, and have never enjoyed hanging out at bars, but after the amount of fun I had over the last six months with drinking being a part of it less than a dozen times, I have no qualms skipping going out or telling people I don’t want to meet them at bars. I would much rather sit somewhere and watch a movie or eat ice cream, so that is what I will be doing.

Boy, It Sure Is A Hot One Today, Huh?

Even before I left, I always hated things like small talk. I get its purpose in our society, but it isn’t fully necessary. It’s so lukewarm, you will never offend with it, but no one will ever leap at their excitement to make small talk with you. Hit me with random facts, stories or just blurt out a sentence, and I’m in. I was never one to sit around and randomly chat about the array of appropriate strange small talk topics. I had things to do, places to be. Traveling alone for over two months definitely pushed me further away from small talk (read: made me even weirder socially), but it magnified my awareness of how important talking to people is.

Traveling alone, you can go days without talking to people, if you aren’t careful. Throw in some headphones, hop from train to bus, hostel to hostel, and don’t say an unnecessary word to anyone. As much as I prefer to do things solo, I don’t think that much alone time is healthy for the human mind. I don’t think zero alone time is healthy either. Again, all things with balance. What I did learn was that most people will happily participate in a real conversation if they aren’t busy and you aren’t being a total weirdo. Western society seems to dictate that you shouldn’t go talk to strangers without a purpose. People tend to enjoy new interactions, especially if it requires no work on their end. Chatting with strangers at restaurants or in public places is always something I have had no problem with in group events, but towards the end of the trip, I was doing it more at random. For the most part, it tended to end up in a decent conversation. I mostly utilized this when there was no seating somewhere and one or two people were sitting at a table with an open seat. We’ll see how it works in Cleveland when I give it a shot.

One Foot Out The Door

Towards the end of my trip, I really burned myself out on travel. In my last seven days, I hit eleven cities. This really drove home the reality that I was constantly living with one foot out the door. Every city I was in, I had a train booked to another city. I had my next night book at another hostel. Any human interaction had a predetermined deadline. Maybe I would see this person again, but how much effort could I put into a relationship that was shorter than a season of a television show. All of my interactions skipped the standard “Where are you from?”, “Where have you been?”, “How long are you traveling?” conversations that happen between every traveler. Thank God. Monotony is my kryptonite, but everything doesn’t always have to be in a constant state of change.

This consistency of always having one thread of my brain focused on the next trip has been going on since I first went to Iceland in 2016. It’s my main reason for loving physically exhausting things like Spartan Races and beach volleyball. In a true state of exhaustion, all power is diverted to the task at hand. There are no side thoughts about what else needs to be completed, just here and now. So I’m back, and not planning a next trip. We all know there will be one, but I’m here for now, so I will keep my focus on being here.

Look At The Bright Side

For a long time before I left, I really began to take notice of just how negative most people are, myself included. I consciously made an effort to not say negative sentences. Most people start conversations with negative content. That’s not just bad for your attitude, but it starts any interaction on a bad foot. Life isn’t that bad. Many of those famous self help gurus preach to write down what you are grateful for every day, as a positive kickstart to your day. You can always follow any negative sentence you say with a positive sentence. I am not sure if it has gotten worse since I left, or if I am just more cognizant of it, but it feels like everyone has even more negative stuff to say since I have been back, even strangers. All of the negative energy is exhausting.

Life is good, you live in a Western civilization. Your biggest worry is likely someone else’s smallest concern. The unfortunate part of this realization is that suffering isn’t universally relative. One person suffering more does not make another suffer any less. However, it is personally relative. Go check out other cultures. Go talk to other people. Write down all of the great things that you have in your life. Remove all of the excess and find out what is really important. Even if you have nothing, being positive is free.

A Last Minute Thank You

Over the one hundred and sixty seven days I was gone, I have been to so many incredible places and done so many incredible things. All of those things pale in comparison to the people who have been a part of the journey. I’m not sure there are words in any of the languages that I learned to describe how grateful I am for all of the people that I have met and spent time with over the course of this adventure.

To everyone who laughed at my stupid jokes, listened to my drawn out stories, appeased my need for volleyball, joined me while I ate ice cream (especially all of you), or just took care of me, intentionally or not, I want to extend all of my thanks to you. For months, I was away from everything that I know so well. People, places, languages, all of it. Because of all of you, I never felt alone. You’re all beautiful and amazing people. I love you and unfortunately, you will likely have to see me again. The man who left on Christmas is not the same man who arrived in Cleveland lsat month and you were all a part of that. Until next time, friends.

I also have to add a little snippet in here for everyone who followed along with the blog posts as I traveled around. At no point would I have guessed that as many people were reading it as have told me since I have been back. The messages following the posts were cool to see that people weren’t just completely ignoring them. There likely won’t be any new ones for a while, at least not any travel ones. Thank you for spending your most precious resource reading what I thought was important.

You’re Up

Everyone keeps asking what the takeaway is, well, there are a ton. Hopefully, this post shared some of them. I am sure most of them are only takeaways for me specifically. It’s all of the things that you already know, that you read in motivational Instagram posts. Slow down to appreciate things, be kinder, do things that scare you. To truly feel the importance of these words, it was important to live all of these situations. Like any advanced math test, the answer gets you very little, you must show your work to get there. So, if you don’t like my takeaways, sell all of your stuff and run away for half of a year and write your own.

Off the Rails: May 20th – June 5th

Most of me traveling is just walking around in beautiful places

So it’s been a bit since I posted, so this will cover just over two weeks. Back to solo traveling has slowly pushed me into old habits, namely very rapidly jumping from city to city. I can rip through a city alone and after sitting on buses/trains/planes the last thing I want to do is sit in a random city. So I’ve been a bit busy running around to write a blog post, but I am uncomfortably blasting this one out on a train ride. Without further explanation, our story left off arriving in Vienna.

Like a Storm Cloud Over My Head

So I have been dragging rain clouds with me to each city. Apparently before I arrive and after I leave is beautiful weather, but storms arrive with me. I exit my bus in Vienna in a rain jacket and with my rain fly on my bag. A short walk and I arrive at my hostel, my first time back in a hostel in Europe. I couldn’t check in yet, so I dropped my bag and roamed around for a bit before coming back to check in. Vienna is home to some of famous musicians of the past and is known for its music. I walked around to see all of the amazingly detailed statues throughout the city and feel sad that all of the food options were similar to Berlin but much more expensive. After roaming, I wasn’t feeling very social so I found a local artsy movie theater and saw Stan and Ollie.

Hercules statues let you know what houses not to mess with

The next morning, two people from my room were doing the walking tour so I joined them. Vienna’s history is filled with cool stories and has all the awesome statues to match. I was especially a big fan of all of the Hercules statues on the palace entrances and will be sure to grab some of those when I settle and get a home. The tour guide went over some interesting things about why Viennese coffee comes with a cup of water and Vienna’s very involved history during World War II. After getting the history rundown, the tour dropped us off on one of the most expensive shopping streets in Europe. The group of us snuck away to grab some food and I had an amazing Goulash while an Australia asked me every possible question about living in India and getting yoga certified.

Never miss a chance for some authentic schnitzel

Afterwards, I roamed the city a bit more as there were some sights we didn’t cover in the walking tour and usually most of my time is spent walking. After the long walk, I hid in a little cafe and checked eating an apple strudel in Vienna off my list while writing some code. In the morning, I needed to catch a bus but wanted to grab a schnitzel before I left Vienna, so my roommate and the yoga informed Australian joined me for brunch before I took off.

Everyone Is A Beer Drinker In Munich

Arriving in Munich, I was starving. I was supposed to couchsurf with another volleyball player, but I still wasn’t feeling very social so I paid for a hostel. I got a recommendation on where to eat, a brewery that was super famous in Munich and had been brewing beer for almost two hundred years. I ended up walking past it because it was a large, crowded place and I was just trying to eat alone. I found a little place where I could grab another schnitzel and spetzl and popped in. I asked for a table for one before realizing the tables were set family style and was sat in the middle of a group.

The bartender probably poured over a thousand of these in the short time we were there

The group already had liter steins of beer, and I don’t like beer, but after a short discussion, we all agreed I was in Munich and needed one. The group ended up being three guys from Southern California so we chatted while I ate. I intended to see the brewery after eating, and they were looking to continue drinking, so they joined me. The brewery was awesome. Casks and casks of beers flew out of a back room and the bartender hammered a tap into them. The bartender took no money and served nothing but beers. For the almost three hours we were there, he was consistently pouring beers. Munich turned out exactly as I imagined it.

Here’s some churches from the roof of another church

The next day, I roamed around Munich, checking out the glockenspiel and various churches. Roaming Europe is a bit less exciting than Asia as it mostly ends up being what churches you can see and what statues are where. I ended up sitting in a park with a giant pretzel and just people watching for a bit before I decided it was time to take off.

Sir, You Can’t Afford To Breath Here

A short bus ride later and I arrived in Zurich. Maria, the awesome photographer who took care of Ryan and I our first time in Koh Phangan, was gracious enough to let me take over her apartment for over a week. I got off the bus and made the fifteen minute walk to her apartment, stubbornly refusing to take the tram so I could see the surrounding area. Upon arrival, I took a shower and did some laundry before she asked if I wanted to watch a movie. My favorite question in the world. I hadn’t laid down and watched a movie on a television since that night in the Vietnamese hotel in the middle of nowhere over two months prior.

All over Zurich, you can find stores filled pretty much wall to wall with decadent chocolates

The following day, she had to go to work, so I explored the area and found that Zurich is at least twice as expensive as anywhere else I had been in Europe and I was still used to Asian prices. A Swiss Franc is almost equivalent to the US dollar and a fast food burger meal cost almost twenty Swiss Francs. I knew this week would be rough on the wallet. Luckily, Maria left me her gym pass so I did some yoga before heading to the gym for a workout. My first time lifting weights in over two months and I had to make sure not to get too excited and hurt myself so I could go again the rest of the week.

Hitting a nearby grocery store to let me afford eating, this was the first time I had cooked my own food since I left besides during cooking classes. My cooking skills have never been as intricate as I would like, but I have my usual stuff down to a tee. Maria showed me around Old Town and to some chocolate shops and I finally got a chance to relax with nothing planned to do. Most of my week was yoga, gym and movies, and anyone who knows me knows that that isn’t something I was upset about.

These ice cream prices are a straight up personal attack

A scoop of gelato was four Francs, so I didn’t eat any gelato while I was there out of principle, as it was two Euros for two scoops in the rest of Europe and I would be in Italy next. Otherwise, Zurich was a great pitstop. On my last full day in Zurich, Maria won some tickets to an orchestra and I remembered how much I enjoy watching people perform such intricate music in perfect harmony. This wasn’t my final full day in Switzerland though.

The view from the top of Harder Klum

I am happiest when I am above things

The next day was a Swiss holiday, so Maria didn’t have work and we took the train to Interlaken, a city between two lakes (thus the name) that was in the Alps. We hiked up to the top of Harder Klum and I got to take in the breathtaking views of the Alps behind the lakes. I am eternally baffled that people grow up in places so beautiful. After the hike, we came down and I had to get some fondue in its birthplace and got to try to rosti. A train ride stopping in Lucerne and then back in Zurich.

The bus from Zurich to Milan needs no entertainment

Most of me visiting people on this trip has involved me disappearing while they are at work, and this was no different. I left at 9am, so unfortunately another instance of taking off unnoticed.

You Think You’re Too Good For Your Home?

Everyone always assumes I have been to Italy, as that is what most of my heritage is. I have held travel to Italy on this high pedastal, always saying that if I go to Italy, I have to go for a while and see everything. I decided that excuse doesn’t make sense and I should at least hit one Italian city, but you know me by now, and sitting still isn’t my M.O. My bus went from Zurich to Milan and then I had a train to Pisa.

This nice police puppy came to celebrate my twentieth country

Arriving at the Italian border, I was excited to mark Italy as my twentieth country visited since I first left the U.S. less than three years ago. As we reached the border, our bus was stopped. The first time a train or a bus had ever been stopped at a border for me while traveling in Europe. Police came on and checked everyone’s passports. I immediately realized that my Spanish knowledge wasn’t helping much with Italian. I speak all of these languages and can’t understand the language of the place my bloodline is from. This was embarassing. The police brought on a dog and it found marijuanain someone’s bag. We waited while they were processed and then we got to Milan.

Please know that I had two or three of these majestic objects in hand every day

Upon getting to Milan, I took a tram to the train station and searched for food. I got a giant calzone and some gelato. Italy already topped the list of places on the trip. A few more hours on a train and I was in Pisa. Worried about missing my stop because Pisa wasn’t the last stop for that train, I ended up hopping off a stop in advance. My hostel was a twenty five minute walk away with all of my stuff, but the route took me past the Leaning Tower. I’m not sure how many direction lists include turning right at famous monuments, but these ones did.

This was the most touristy picture spot I have seen in over five months

I got to the hostel around ten and the only things open were pizzerias, so I grabbed a big pizza for only five euros and then got some sleep. The next day I roamed around and hit all the monuments in Pisa, which isn’t too many. Finding a riverside cafe, I grabbed a cannoli dipped in chocolate chips and pistachio, perfection.

The day didn’t go well, but look at this culinary art

A friend told me about an area just west of Pisa where they play volleyball on the beach so I booked a hostel without doing any other research. That bit is necessary because I didn’t realize that there was only one bus per hour that went that direction and it took forty five minutes. As a reference, the city further south than that that also had a beach required a fifteen minute train that came frequently. I hopped on the bus and it broke down halfway, leaving me over an hour walk from the hostel to wait thirty more minutes for the next bus. If you haven’t gotten the memo yet, I have bad travel luck.

Never would have guessed this many Italians do Capoeira

I relaxed in the hostel before heading to the beach. The beach was a forty minute walk from my hostel, and since I didn’t catch the bus in time, it was faster to walk than wait for the bus. The beach with the volleyball nets was called “Bagno Del Americani” which means “Bathroom of Americans”, which I am still confused about but was pretty consistent with the other beach names. Upon arriving, I hopped in the water and watched some volleyball. They were only playing fours and there were about seven groups of four waiting to use two courts and with my lack of Italian language knowledge, I ended up just spectating. There was also a Capoiera level test going on near the courts, so I got to watch that which was cool. Capoiera is high on the list of skills to learn. It’s essentially Brazilian breakdance fighting. After having my fill of spectating, I caught a bus back.

I hoped to just grab dinner at my hostel but there was some sort of family reunion going on so I snuck out to a nearby restaurant. For the first time on this trip, I ordered pasta. A carbonara really hit the spot for how hungry I was. Like an idiot, I am always determined to try local delicacies and a local signature of the area I was in, Livorno, is the Ponce. The Ponce is a variation of an Espresso Corretto, which is espresso and whiskey, but with rum replacing the whiskey. I don’t like rum or espresso, and the drink is served piping hot in a shot glass. I did my best to finish it quickly, as is custom, and ended up burning my tongue.

A Quick Blast of History

The following morning I woke up at 6am and caught the long 7am bus back over to Pisa. Getting to my 8:30am train early, I found the platform heading to Florence and waited. I hopped on and wrote some code for an hour before checking my GPS to see how close I was. I was very far. I had gotten on the train in the opposite direction. The sign had said where the train was departing from , not where it was headed. I was now two hours from Florence and was immediately sick of traveling. I just wanted to lay on the ground until it was time to fly to Madrid. A thirty minute wait and then a two hour train ride and I was finally in Florence.

There’s no good place to get a picture of how huge this cathedral is

Exiting the train station, I found a place to drop my bag not far from Santa Maria Cathedral. The cathedral is huge and awe inspiring, and was entirely wrapped in a line to get inside. This would be a common sight in Florence. Next, I hit Galleria Accademia, where the original David statue lives. Again, the building was wrapped in a line and even if you waited, entry cost thirty Euros. I have been traveling long enough that I am good on paying a lot or waiting a lot to see inanimate objects. I headed back to the cathedral to grab some gelato and people watch. I decided it was a good idea to eat before gelato so I grabbed a porchetta panini from a little shop. A group of Chinese tourists were having trouble ordering so I did my best to bridge the gap between the Chinese group and the Italian staff with my very limited Italian knowledge. Luckily, they were asking about sugar and I know that word from ordering Coke Zero. Next stop, Edoardo’s for gelato. It was suggested by several people, so I actually waited in line for this.

This is probably one tenth of one of the infinite lines

Next up, I went to see the statue of Dante Alighieri, author of Dante’s Inferno and the Basilica of Santa Croce, burial place of Galileo and Machiavelli. A walk along the river and I hit some museums with even more huge lines. I began to wonder how much time on average a Florence tourist spends just standing in lines. Next stop was Ponte Vecchio, a bridge with shops built into its walls that sells mostly gold and jewelry. Off to my favorite spot, Piazza del Signoria.

It’s not the original, but can you tell?

One of the coolest stories in any mythology

Piazza del Signoria is an open plaza filled with statues surrounding a church. Here you can find replicas of famous statues, including a replica of Michelangelo’s David, that statue people were paying thirty Euros and waiting hours to go see a few blocks away. Amongst many others, this plaza houses a statue of Perseus holding Medusa’s severed head with an insane amount of detail and more of the Hercules statues like in Vienna.

After this, I needed some food so I hit up another suggestion, All’antico Vinaio. I was told this was a really good sandwich shop, what I wasn’t told is that there were five of them all next to each other and all of them had an insane line. So far, I had only waited in line for gelato and food, not mad.

Good luck piggy

After eating, I roamed the city a bit more, in search of a bathroom, which is much harder than it should be. I found the Fontana del Porcellino, or the Piglet Fountain, where you rub its snout and put a coin in its mouth and if it falls into the grate below, it means good luck. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the good luck and I accept my fate and didn’t grab my coin again for another try, like many of the other tourists. Back to my bag and I hit the train station to go to La Spezia.

I Expected Italian To Come Out When You Opened Your Mouth

The train arrives and I make the walk through La Spezia to my hostel. The hostel was a converted modern apartment, and it provided a very homey feel making it very easy to make friends. I grabbed a soda and found some information about hiking the Cinque Terre, five seaside towns on the western coast of Italy separated by trails.

For real, I had a lot of gelato

Up early and ready to go, I grabbed breakfast and made a battle plan for hiking the Cinque Terre. Some of the friends I had made were also doing the hike, so I made plans to meet up with them in the cities. Over the course of this trip, I have learned that all the Spartan training made the speed I like to hike at significantly faster than a comfortable speed for normal humans and normal human hiking speed now makes my brain want to explode from boredom. I started in the middle city, Corniglia, and hiked off to Vernazza. A one and a half hour hike knocked out in forty minutes and I grabbed myself a panini and some gelato while I waited for my friends.

There was an abandoned building at the viewpoint with my name on it

After we spent some time relaxing in Vernazza, we went to start the hike to Monterosso. The person checking tickets at the beginning of the hike saw my Tevas and said I needed closed toe shoes, even though I had just done a full hike and the shoes offered more support than most of the shoes other people were wearing. No go. I contemplated taking the train to Monterosso and hiking the other way, but there was a chance I would be stopped there too. I grabbed the train back to La Spezia, ran to the hostel to switch shoes and came back, then a train back to Monterosso. I got there around the time my friends did, so we checked out the beach town and then began another hike. This one reaching a viewpoint that provides the other view of all five cities.

This wine was made in those mountains

Manarola is easily one of the most picturesque cities I have ever been in

After the hike, we took a quick swim. The water in this area is so clear you can perfectly see your feet while swimming. It mostly looks like a giant pool of blue Powerade that extends to the horizon. A pitstop at a restaurant to eat some lasagna and try some white wine made in the surrounding mountains before eating some gelato and heading to the city of Manarola to watch the sunset with a cannoli in hand before heading home.

Back to the hostel, I made a pit stop for more food. I found a burger place near the hostel and stood there for a minute looking at the menu. When I opened my mouth to order, the cashier looked immediately surprised. “I expected Italian to come out when you opened your mouth.”, he blurted. Maybe next time. My burger and I returned to the hostel where the common room and the kitchen were packed with people. I found a corner seat and began eating. The preface this part, I had told my new friends that in over five months of traveling, the only nationality that ever had anything to say about me being American was Canadians. A girl asked where everyone was from. She was unphased when she was told the Netherlands and New Zealand, but when I replied, “I am American.” between bites, she began a tirade. Usually, I reply to this question with “The States” or “USA”, because in the past, other countries from North and South America have been a bit displeased with this answer, but “The States” and “USA” bring about their own confusion with non native English speakers. Her immediate response was “Where are you from? You’re not American. Everyone in North and South America are Americans. So where are you from?” In the past, I probably would have gone toe to toe with her, using my intelligence and general lack of caring what people think to brute force her into an apology, but these things are trivial. I have been traveling for months, this is not the first time someone has had a holier than thou response to me being American/from the US. I calmly replied, “Are you Canadian?” To which her look changed to confusion. “Yes, how did you know?” I told her that Canadians always have something to say about America. She continued and I explained to her that in almost every other language, citizens of the US are referred to with some sort of “American” prefix. Americano, Amerikanisch, Amerikanskiy, etc. I didn’t make these languages and it seems like an odd thing to get up in arms about. My burger was gone and I snuck into the kitchen to find other people to chat with.

At 11pm, the common areas closed and we went to a nearby bar to continue chatting. Looking at alcoholic beverages, I saw “The Godfather”, my go to drink in college when I was quitting drinking but wanted to just have one so everyone would leave me alone. Marlon Brando’s Scotch/Amaretto mix seemed like the perfect drink for Italy. We finished up and headed back to sleep.

One Last Stop

These stairs look prettier than they felt after over a thousand of them

The next morning, I hit up Riomaggore, the fifth city, to check them all off the list. I planned to hike to Porto Verene but it would have been six hours, which would have put me all the way up to my train time. I hiked with my friends from the first night for the first hour of their hike and stopped at a viewpoint that gave me a view of some of the other cities, as well as the viewpoint we hiked to the day before. After I left them, I hiked back down to grab some gnocchi. After finishing up, I grabbed the train back to La Spezia and did a little sight seeing there, since I never saw the city I was actually staying in. From there, I grabbed some gelato and got on my train, with a quick stop in Parma before ending up in Milan.

People had given me many warnings about how boring Milan was, but I rip through most cities in a day, so I wasn’t really worried. I paid a bit extra for a more social hostel to hopefully make a friend to see the city with, but when I got there, it was mostly filled with twenty year old Americans. No thanks. I got a recommendation for what area to eat in, took off and came back to watch a movie.

Doesn’t look to Wes Anderson-esque

The next morning, I had hoped to play some volleyball, as it had been over two weeks since I had played. Most of the Italian cities had left me empty handed while looking for beach volleyball, but my lack of speaking Italian and their usual lack of speaking English made it not so likely I would stumble up anything. No luck here either. I left the hostel at 9:30am and headed for Bar Luce. Bar Luce is entirely designed by Wes Anderson and is housed in the Fondazione Prada. After chatting with some Americans who had awkwardly asked me for directions in broken Italian, I took off for Bocconi University.

Prior to deciding to quit my job, discard all of my things and roam the Earth, I had considered quitting my job and running away to a top business Master’s school. SDA Bocconi had been my main choice, since it was in the top ten and was located in Italy. I still have hopes of attending that school, and my newfound desire for Italian fluency only pushes that. I stopped by the campus and it felt a bit like a super tiny Ohio State, so future me could definitely do that. A bit of a walk to the famous Duomo and I stopped to grab a bunch of pictures.

The Duomo looks like a super villain lair

Name that Pokemon

The Duomo is overwhelming. It is huge and full of ornate details. For some reason, there is a crazy long necked dinosaur creature right near the main door and I sat for a bit wondering what other crazy things are on this building. A short walk to the shopping area led me to a tile mosaic bull where you’re supposed to spin on your heel on the bull’s balls for good luck and then to a statue of Leonardo Da Vinci. A lucky text from a friend sent me to the San Bernardino alle Ossa, a church with a room filled with human bones and skulls. The history of Christianity is insane and when they ran out of cemetery room, they decorated this room with bones and skulls. A short walk over to the “L.O.V.E.” statue to end my tourism. This statue was of a very details hand, with every finger cut off besides a raised middle finger, apparently meant for the bankers that fill Milan. Back to the Duomo to enjoy some ravioli and try the apertivo “Crodino” and I decided to end my time in Milan.

Bone art

After walking ten miles for the day, I went back to the hostel to charge my phone and download some movies for the trip. I also found out the trip from hostel to airport would be an hour and a half, so I wanted to leave early to account for any issues. I grabbed some gelato and carried my stuff to the tram, which I took to a bus, that had fifty minutes to drive to the airport. Then I went through the slowest airport security and finally got on my flight to Madrid.

Technically, Madrid should kind of be in this post based on the date but I will save it for next time. Two days in Madrid, then a weekend in New York for the AVP NYC Open and then I am back in Cleveland after over one hundred and fifty days. Ciao!

Journey To The West : May 12th – May 19th

Alas, the story has me returning to Western culture. I woke up and headed to the Delhi airport. I hailed a tuk tuk, only to find out that tuk tuks can’t actually go all the way to the airport, forcing me to take a shuttle bus the remainder of the way. At this point, I have been in a lot of airports around the world and I currently consider the Delhi airport the least efficient one I have ever been to. To enter the airport, you wait in a line where they check your boarding pass and passport/id. I am not sure how you get in if you need to check in there, because you would have to get through the doors for that. Throughout the whole process, they checked my boarding pass nine times. They were checking my boarding pass in areas that required checking my boarding pass to enter. Oh well, a bit of annoyance later and I was on my flight. My seven hour flight turned into over eight due to issues between India and Pakistan and us having to go around, but otherwise an easy flight.

Not a bad way to burn five hours

A five hour layover in Kiev, Ukraine saw me have my first taste of beef in over a month, an underwhelming burger. I’m not particularly fond of beer, but it’s such a staple of Eastern European culture, it seemed wrong not to have one. Also, there’s not much to do in the Kiev airport. A short flight later on the tiniest plane I have ever been on and I was in Riga, Latvia.

I am counting this as a private jet

Latvia Is Not Latveria

I have been dragging bad weather with me through Europe

I landed in Riga around nine thirty at night. Oddly enough, th sun still had not set. I was told it would be cold, but it still felt like tank top and shorts weather to me. Sandra, one of the people from the Beachbox Camp in Thailand, was nice enough to come get me from the airport and let me crash in her apartment. The next morning, the weather was not so nice. It was gloomy and raining pretty consistently. As I have been in hot weather since Christmas, I have no jeans or anything else to wear for cold weather, so I did some Riga sight seeing while checking out some stores. Found a pair of jeans after a bit and met Sandra at Lido’s, a buffet style Latvian restaurant. Latvian food is what you would expect from an Eastern European country, heavy food, potatoes, good food for the cold weather. This style of food is pretty much non existent in Asia, so I was more than looking forward to it.

The entrance to Beach Box indoor courts

After a month of sitting around India, I was not quite in volleyball shape. Sandra took me to see the indoor sand facility run by our other friend from Beachbox Camps, Renars. After a few hours of playing, I was feeling a bit more like myself. As tiring as doing several hours of yoga in one hundred degree weather was, it never gave me the level of exhaustion that a few hours of volleyball does. A little food after and I slept like a baby. The following day, we got lunch in Riga’s central market before I went and finished the post about Dharamshala. Then I got the chance to do some more volleyball training.

Indoor sand courts with heated sand and fake island decor for the winter months

I was easily the weakest player and the shortest person in the training group. Usually, I make up for any shortfalls with endurance and defensive skills, but a month of yoga killed my endurance and lack of reps had diminished my defense skills. We spent the training doing a good amount of drills, some focused on advanced hitting techniques. Hitting is my least used skill, since it’s a new one and I prefer to shoot. We did a drill that required me to hit cross body, which loses height from a normal swing, really showing off my lack of height and my legs’ current state of weakness. Following the training, we played some pickup and I got some confidence back being able to shoot the ball and play defense like I never took a break. After playing, I remembered how bad my endurance was after a month of sitting in the yogashala and kind of wanted to die. Some food and another good night’s sleep before my last full day in Riga.

More courts in Jurmala

Luckily, Sandra convinced me to buy a hoodie, because she took me to the beach and the wind off sea was freezing cold. I don’t know too many people with sponsorships, so the idea of it is still a bit foreign to me, but it was weird to find out that Samoilovs is sponsored by the municipality of Jurmala, a very popular beach area of Latvia. We made a walk down the beach to see where the FIVB held an event and where Samoilovs trains when the weather is nice. After that, we walked through the beautiful park near the Jurmala beach. Adding Riga to my travel recommendations list. After the super long beach walk, we took the train back to Riga and grabbed some Indian food (because I didn’t have enough of it apparently) and I attempted to give my tired legs a break. Sandra had other ideas.

Something about biking off into the sunset

She had borrowed a bike from a friend and hade her own so we rode around Riga to see some of the areas I didn’t get a chance to see on foot. We made a pitstop to see one of her friends that was attending a Nike group fitness event in the park. Over fifty people were there going through an interval style workout run by a few trainers. The personal trainer part of my brain exploded as they had people of all skill levels attempted exercises that you should likely refrain from using with the beginner crowd. Oh well, better than nothing. We biked a bit more before stopping at a bridge to watch the sunset. Day total ended up being over fifteen kilometers walking and over ten kilometers biking on a city bike. My poor legs never get any rest.

Bye bye, Riga

Back to Berlin

After an awesome breakfast at Big Bad Bagels, I carried my fifteen kilos worth of stuff to say goodbye to Sandra and catch a bus to the airport. A painless flight to Berlin and then to make it to another friend’s place. Berlin is the first place I have traveled back to, but after visiting the first time, I decided I could live there. It is pretty much the Austin, Texas of Europe. Tons to do, plenty of people doing all sorts of crazy stuff and not as expensive as you would expect. I was amazed at how much of the city I remembered exactly, but I guess that’s the benefit of a photographic memory. Even the airport had changed dramatically since I was there over two years ago. Interestingly enough, Germany was my second country I traveled to, two months after my first time leaving the US. It was also my first solo travel, an attempt to tackle my anxiety. I was a nervous wreck when I landed the first time, having already made travel mistakes and arriving with dead electronics. Fast forward two and a half years later and I was arriving solo again, this time much more comfortable traveling and being alone. I took the train to a coffee shop near where Julia, another volleyball player I met in Thailand(Thanks, Beachbox!) lived.

Berlin Wall art

I got to stay in an extra room in Julia’s flat, which was likely one of the nicest places I have stayed since I left America, much better than my hostel bed from my first trip to Berlin. After getting settled, she took me to a cool artsy area called Holzmarkt to check out a coffee shop. I have been attracting horrible weather to every city, so we got to do some walking in the rain after this. Our walk brought us to a length of the Berlin Wall that is regularly painted with different art. As we walked, I fully remembered where I was and was able to describe where other things were in relation, which was a really weird feeling for a place I was at over two years prior and only for three days. We grabbed some currywurst so I could check that off of my food list and headed home for some much needed sleep.

That’s one way to prove where your vegetables are sourced from

The following day, we did some more roaming of Berlin and grabbed some lunch at a place that grew their salads inside of the restaurant using hydroponics. Following that, we grabbed some ice cream, because ice cream in Berlin is all delicious and super cheap. While finishing my cone, we passed another highly recommended ice cream place…so we had second cones. My addiction knows no bounds. Julia showed me a really cool park near where the lives where every weekend people sign up to do karaoke and hundreds of people watch before heading home to do some work. While she worked, I hid in a coffee shop and worked on some code.

Following the little coding session, we caught the train to go check out some 3D blacklight minigolf. Walking around with alcohol is a legal and common occurence in Germany, so we grabbed some drinks for the long ride and made our way to the golf place. For an extra euro, we got 3D glasses and played two rounds of mini golf. It’s been a long time since I’ve done minigolf, but most of these holes were pretty intense. The blacklight art was all well done, and the 3D glasses made putting a mental struggle, so we played one game without them on. On the ride back, I grabbed a bratwurst to knock another German food off of the list and then we headed home.

The following morning, we were signed up for a volleyball tournament. The biggest tournament in the Cleveland area happens twice a summer and has thirty or forty courts set up. Several places in Berlin have over forty courts set up permanently and are in daily use. Absolutely madness. I got a chance to play at one of those places for this tournament and it was great to play outdoors again.

When playing mixed tournaments, most places have an unwritten courtesy rule that men serve the ball to the other men and other places have other variations of the courtesy rule. I usually tend to avoid playing mixed due to varying adherence to this courtesy rule. Berlin plays that the men should serve each other and they actually lower the net to between men and women’s height, so it is even easier for the guys. Surprisingly, Julia has been playing for less time than me, so it was cool to get to play with her. The weirdest thing about the tournament was that teams were allowed to sign up with two men, playing on the lower net. Of course, most of the men didn’t adhere to serving the guy, even when they had two guys on their team. Not my favorite occurence, especially with both of us getting used to playing together and getting used to playing outside. After the first few matches, we got our act together and pulled out some wins, finishing four and eight. Twelve games is a solid amount of play for a tournament, especially for one that only cost ten euros per player, and playing with Julia was a lot of fun, so it was a good day. After playing, the hunger was real, so we went and ate some delicious burgers (because I have missed burgers so much) and hit another ice cream place on the way home.

Commemorative 2018 FIFA World Cup Moscow coin for speaking Russian

Following some relaxation, Berlin had more in store for me. On the way to our first destination we had a conversation with a drunk Russian group who were in Berlin to watch Russia play Germany in indoor volleyball. The conversation was part English, part German and part Russian and ended in one of the guys giving both of us commemorative 2018 FIFA World Cup coins from Moscow. Life is pretty cool.

Birgit & Bier decorations were awesome

Julia got us on the list for a “Summer Love” party at a place called Birgit & Bier, which had a cool open space area that reminded me almost of a carnival, which was insanely decorated with hearts. After hitting up a little stand with kettle corn and heart shaped candies, we hit up the different bar areas. There was 90’s pop, Hip hop & RnB, Techno and another one that wasn’t open yet while we were there. After roaming around that bar, we made our way over to the Soho House. Apparently, Soho Houses are members clubs around the world for creatives to work out, hang out, relax and attend events and most of the bigger cities have them. By bigger cities, I mean London, New York, Berlin, etc. Due to their membership including celebrities, they have a no photos policy. We went to a “Gods of Hip Hop” event that was being djed by DJ Lord from Public Enemy and had a number of people in attendance from Public Enemy and Wu Tang Clan. The mixes were all awesome and the atmosphere was cool as well, even though it was weird to watch well dressed white people dance to remixes of ODB and DMX. After a few hours there, the exhaustion from several hours of volleyball in the sun set in and I made my way home.

I found myself a flea market

And a pride parade found me

Berlin is filled with cool stuff to see

HolzMarkt little dining area is so calm in the city

My last day in Berlin was spent roaming around, as Julia had to work. I did what I always do and popped my headphones in and began randomly walking around. I hit a nearby fleamarket and walked around before grabbing some ice cream and heading over to another part of the Berlin Wall and some other monuments I wanted to see again. As I got to the monument areas, the streets were filled with a Pride Parade. As I made my way around the city, I kept hitting filled streets, so I am not sure if it happened to be moving in accordance with me or there were multiple areas doing it. I found another one of the volleyball places and sat down to watch some people play for a bit. Afterwards, I made my way back to Holzmarkt to take some pictures of the area as I didn’t have my phone with me the first time and to say goodbye to Julia, as she would be working still when I left. I hopped over to a burger place to use the wifi to watch my new buddy, Chaim Schalk, kill it with one of my other favorite players to make it to the finals of the AVP Austin Open. Then I made it back to Julia’s apartment to get all of my stuff together.

Goodnight, Berlin

A few delayed train rides later and I was at the bus station waiting for my bus to Vienna and watching Chaim play my other favorite AVP team in the finals. Next up, I roam around Vienna looking at statues and eating strudels and get used to speaking to native English speakers again.

The Feeling Of Cold: May 4th – May 11th

A lot of the time, people ask me if I am homesick. Of course, I miss things about home, my family, friends and city, but there are some more abstract things that come to mind when asked if I miss things. Laying in a hot bath, South American food, and cold air rise to the top of that list. After the crazy heat of Rishikesh, I fled to the cold of the Himalayas. First, I had to finish up things in town.

Inhala, Exhala

Early morning Spanish/Yoga lesson combo in the other ashram

A friend from the three hundred hour course invited a few of us to attend her required teaching course. The three hundred hour course was made up of girls from Russia, who didn’t speak too much English and the most patient Chilean girl I have ever met. The group had a translator, so she spent the month hearing information in English, followed by a translation in Russian, all day for a month. As I said before, I spent a lot of time at the ashram hearing and attempting to speak Spanish. As there would be no translator for the class anyways, she opted to teach in Spanish. Up at 6am, I went to the class, fully prepared for my tired brain to fail me. A good flow class actually requires little instruction. The movements should go with your breath and a quick peek to the front can confirm yopu are in the right pose. As the class went on, I realized that regardless of how good my Spanish was, I don’t know the names of body parts, and most of yoga instruction refers to body movement. I also realized I forgot the word for breathe. Oh well, an hour later, I had completed my first yoga class in Spanish. We all said our goodbyes and then I made a visit to the place that helped encourage me to do my training in Rishikesh.

All You Need Is Transcendental Meditation

It’s like they knew I needed a featured image for the post

About fifty years ago, the Beatles lived in an ashram in Rishikesh, India to learn Transcendental Meditation with Maharishi. Since this occurrence, Transcendental Meditation and Rishikesh gained popularity. The ashram in which they lived still stands today, but almost as ruins. The ashram is a tourist attraction, costing about a American dollar for locals or eight dollars for foreigners. This ashram is more of a complex than an ashram though.

A very small fraction of the little domes

Currently run by the same people who run the Rajaji Tiger Reserve, the profits are used for upkeep. Upon entering the ashram, you go up a long winding walkway which end up upon the area of dome shaped meditation buildings. The bottom floor of each of these appear to be living quarters and a bathroom, with the upstairs being an open area with an opening facing the river. Some of these are filled with graffiti, a common occurrence here. Most of the ashram is covered in graffiti, outside of areas clearly marked “No Graffiti”. The domes are small and peacefull, the stairs had a minimalistic design, and some of them have held the test of time better than others.

Not a small place, by any means

Pictures from the complex’s former popularity fill these rooms

Past the meditation quarters, there is the post office and some other buildings before reaching a building containing a cafe, and some photo galleries. The galleries cover wildlife, Maharishi, The Beatles and Transcendental Meditation. A year or so ago, I had looked into Transcendental Meditation, even going so far as to sign up for a session in Cleveland. Upon hearing that you had to pay a fee before you could receive your mantra and certain things were not to be discussed, I opted out. In the future, I will probably attend one just to check it out, but I usually keep away from those kinds of scenarios, although a lot of my favorite celebrities are TM supporters. After this building, the complex gets expansive.

This artist must have been in town for a while, as his detailed paintings were all over the complex

These paintings are all huge. Here’s me next to one of the smallest ones

There are tons of buildings in the complex, many of them were housing quarters or kitchens or who knows what. I checked out most of these, as the graffiti was quite impressive. I will sprinkle some of my favorites throughout this post, but the yoga hall deserves a special mention, as it held some very large portraits of The Beatles and Maharishi, as well as some word art.

One of the multiple housing quarters from a distance

For scale, that doorway is almost as tall as me

Of course, the artist from before had to have their own dome

Next was the very large housing complexes. There were two of them, with many levels of rooms. I made a quick run through both but mostly the ground floor and roofs contained the only good art I found. Both roofs housed more of the meditation domes, but these ones had their externals beautifully decorated. Here is a cool view from the one whose ladder was still intact enough to climb (Sorry, Mom), enjoy.

Behind these buildings, overlooking the river, was Maharishi’s home. I didn’t get many pictures of this, but it was much more ornate than the other simple buildings of the complex, even having a marble looking porch. A small path from the home led to the eighty four caves used for meditation and yoga. I didn’t venture into these as it was dark, and they were lined with river rocks, which just looked like tiny skulls. This was a no graffiti zone, besides the main yoga hall where they all converged and this had some cool graffiti. Throughout the caves were also small areas dedicated to specific asanas. After these caves, I found the home The Beatles actually lived in. This was actually the least interesting part, as it was not graffiti’d but had been mostly stripped, so was just a small building.

Maharishi and The Beatles

An interesting look at the past, some beautiful grounds and a nice walk later and I headed back to get everything together in my room.

Back To The Backpack

I grabbed lunch with the remainder of the yoga group. There were probably five farewell lunch/dinners, as everyone left at different times. I left mine to get everything together and head to my bus. After being dropped off by the ever helpful Mukesh, the man at the desk informed me that my 4:00pm bus would not be there until 7:30pm and that I could sit there and wait. Doubtful. I left my bags and walked back to the ashram. A quick shower and some tea with Antonia seemed much more enjoyable than sitting in a hot building. When I returned, the office was filled with a group from the Spanish Yoga course housed near my school and a group of Israeli girls we had met in a restaurant.

When the bus arrived, we all got on. When I handed the man my ticket, he pulled out his phone and started yelling to someone. Never a good sign. My ticket said seat twenty eight, but he put me in twenty nine. Good enough for me. After a couple sat in twenty seven and twenty eight, he asked me to move behind twenty seven. I agreed before getting into said seat. The girl in seat twenty seven immediately put her seat all the way back, which let me find out the seat was broken. Not only was the fully reclined seat almost touching me, but the left side was broken, so it was so low my leg didn’t fit. When I made mentioned, she replied, “Well, I am going to have to sleep.”…and everyone thinks Canadians are so nice. After everyone got on the bus, half of the seats were open, meaning we would be picking up others, but twenty nine was still open and I paid the same price as everyone else, so I returned. Other people took the broken seats.

The bus was uncomfortable and the furthest back I could put my seat without physically crushing the guy behind me was not comfortable enough to sleep. I dozed in and out over the course of the thirteen hour ride. Entering the mountainous area of Dharamshala, the views were incredible and the roads were horrifying. Each lane was about one and a half cars wide, with the bus whipping around the corners. Every curve, you could feel the bus teeter on its center of gravity. I wish I was asleep to avoid this knowledge. I arrived and got my stuff. I contacted Ana, who had been my city guide in Rishikesh, and asked if I should walk or taxi to the hostel. She told me it was a thirty minute walk, but it was straight uphill, so I opted for the taxi.

A Hunger For Knowledge

The hostel

I actually stayed in Dharamkot, which is a bit higher up than Dharamshala, McLeodanj (where the Dalai Lama lives) and Bhagsu (where everyone goes for yoga), so it gave me a beautiful view. It was pretty awesome to do yoga in the fresh, mountain area overlooking the cities. My first day, I did a walk through each of the cities, which are about twenty minutes from each other. Bhagsu is similar to Rishikesh, mostly yoga and cafes and shops. McLeodanj is more of the busy, tourist streets you expect in main Indian cities. Dharamshala was the more commercialized area. Over trails and through rocks, I had to try the local dessert, Bhagsu cake. I also picked up some Thai fisherman pants, as I never got a chance to buy any in Thailand, and a yoga mat with accompanying bag so I could continue practicing.

The mountain views are always beautiful

The hostel I stayed in was brand new and also functioned as a coworking space, so it was perfect to get some coding practice in and write that big long post about my month of yoga. I had the whole dorm to myself for the first three nights, which was awesome. I slept with a comforter and was still uncomfortably cold, a feeling I had forgotten. I still opted to wear tanktops and shorts for the first two days, as I truly missed the feeling of being cold.

Apparently how you know there’s an area of Israelis

As I have mentioned in other blogs, I am constantly mistaken as Israeli, Spanish, Greek and, on rare occasion, Italian. Due to this, I have learned to say “I don’t speak Hebrew” in Hebrew, thanks to the frequency with which people come up to me in full blown Hebrew conversation. Dharamkot is literally brimming with Israelis. My aesthetic isn’t helped by the fact that my travel footwear of choice is a pair of Tevas, which seems to be the calling card of an Israeli traveler. I fall short on just the sheer amount they all smoke, but otherwise, I fit right in.

The very basic starting design

My patience for painting is limited

Little Tikes My First Mandala

he second day, I felt like learning something new, as yoga had been the only thing I really had time for in Rishikesh. I roamed around Bhagsu looking at different things. Music lessons, Reiki, Sound Healing, Hindi, nope, nope, nope. Although, keep an eye out for me learning harmonica in the future, just not for the prices they wanted. I finally decided on Mandala drawing, cool local art that you will see everywhere in India. I discussed prices and content and the man was a bit vague. Anyone who knows my family knows that my father and middle sister have a god given talent for art, and all that was left for me was math and science. I have always been able to memorize lines and angles to replicate art, but never outright create, so time to change that. I showed up the next day and he told me the four dollars per hour. Starting from a blank page, we went through drawing the design in pencil, how and why we made each design and what they symbolized. After the first two hours, I had a fully outlined design. Then he taught me about painting the design, and why certain colors were chosen for certain places. Painting takes forever, and I am not a patient man. As I colored in each intricate part, all I could think was how long this was taking and how much it was costing me. A friend who had also done the class told me it took her one and a half hours. Halfway through painting, I was at three hours. For the duration of the painting portion, I was sitting alone painting because there wasn’t much to tell me, so I was paying for someone to sit next to me. Oh well, still less than it would have been in America. I took my finish design and went home to relax. My legs were dead from sitting cross legged for four hours.

A Sam with food is a happy Sam

The first two nights, I spent relaxing, writing the blog and checking out the local cafes to hang out with dogs and drink chai. The third day, I headed into McLeodanj to register for a teaching with the Dalai Lama that would be happening while I was in town. I was actually supposd to go to Agra the night before, but I figured seeing the Dalai Lama was a better experience than seeing the Taj Mahal, so I decided to stay. Later that night, Ana and I took a cooking class, where I took the reins on what we would be cooking. I chose my three favorite dishes since I have been here: Malai Kofta, Dal Makhani and Bhagsu cake. Malai Kofta is a creamy, lighter sauce covering kofta, which is grated potato, carrot and paneer fried into cigar shapes. Dal Makhani is a similar sauce but not as creamy, which is filled with dal, which is black beans and lentils. Bhagsu cake is just butter. It’s actually a base of crushed cookies mixed with butter, a layer of condensed milk (MilkMaid) mixed with butter, and melted dark chocolate…mixed with butter. We were able to make all three things in under an hour and then eat ourselves into a state that one should not walk up a mountain to get home in. Add one more qualification for World Chef Sam Massari.

I Just Need Some Fresh Air

I am really going to miss random dogs guiding me on hikes

Following this, we hit some cafes to hang out and work on things. I say some cafes, because power outages are so common in India that every time we would get settled in one, they would lose power and we would hop to the next one that had internet. Due to this hopping around, and probably vegetarian food being the devil, I got a bit of food poisoning. This is also a common occurrence in India, no one even bats an eye when you tell them. I woke up and my stomach disagreed with the day’s plan of hiking, but I am the boss and my body listens, or it stops getting ice cream, so the hike continued.

Not my idea of a big waterfall

It was Ana’s last full day, so she opted to go to the big, local waterfall over the more popular Triund hike to the Himalayas. The hike was through a trail that was mostly rocks and was very up and down. After over an hour of hiking, we reached a waterfall that I wouldn’t call big, even by Cleveland standards. The water was directly from the Himalayas, so it was crystal clear and ice cold, which was refreshing. A local dog guided us back and we decided to do the Triund hike even though it was about 1pm. Google stated it was only a two hour hike. When we got to the head of the trail, a man told us we had to come tomorrow, that he was with the police and that the hike takes three to four hours each way. Oh, well.

I woke up the next day sick again, but this time and a very loud snoring roommate. He was snoring when I fell asleep, and snoring when I woke up six hours later. If you snore this loud, probably don’t stay in hostels. If nothing else though, it was a good motivator to get up and go hike.

I did some research and everything said the hike took three to four hours. With my background, researching hikes while travel is always a bit useless, as you have no idea what someone’s physical ability is when they tell you how long a hike took them, even if they state they are “an experience trekker”. Ana agreed to wake up at 8am and attempt the hike, agreeing to go back on her own if we were not close after two hours.

Goats don’t even hike up mountains as well as me

The trail was at an incline the entire time, wrapping around the mountains. It was actually a pleasant trail for the first three kilometers, which took under an hour. The remaining two kilometers were a bit more treacherous, but I told Ana the best secret Spartans taught me. You’re going to be tired and sore either way, if you take a break, you get to experience that several times. If you push through, you just have to be tired and sore one time, and somewhere that you can actually relax. We came up over the ridge in under an hour and a half to a beautiful view of the Himalayas.

Which one is the better view?

After the hike, laying in the cool, mountain air was the most peaceful thing I could think of. Alone, besides some campers and the shop owners. I grabbed some Oreos to snack on while enjoying the view, because duh. The other side of the ridge gave a view of what looked like the entirety of India. It is standard to enjoy some instant noodles at the top of the hike, so we made sure to do that before heading down. We spent two hours at the top, so it was definitely worth the hike. The way down took about as long as the way up, as the rocks made it difficult to head down quickly.

Ana left, so I helped carry her stuff to the bus station. Since I was in town anyways, I checked some shops for a radio, because I had been told that I would need one to listen to translations at the Dalai Lama. The first shop I entered offered me one for thirty American dollars. I left out loud. I wouldn’t have paid thirty dollars for a radio when radios were useful. I shopped around a bit and ended up finding one for six dollars. Two other friends would be in town for the teaching, so I told them they could use my headphone splitters and share my radio. After this, I hid in a cafe and drank Chai and wrote code like the good little travel nerd I am.

Just hanging out in the Himalayas, no big deal

The Main Attraction

I returned home to find I had another roommate. Snoring roommate was awake when I got home, but asleep by the time I got out of the shower. Today, his snoring was so loud that I couldn’t hear the Netflix show I was watching. I assumed new roommate would have something to say, but fell asleep immediately. I waited about an hour, in hopes that the snoring would reduce or stop, but it didn’t, so I had to get up and shake the guy to get him to stop. It worked. After about fifteen minutes, the snoring continued, but this time, new roommate was also snoring. The absolute worst. I had had zero loud snoring roommates this whole trip, and now I had two, one being the worst I had ever heard. As if someone checked the stats and saw that life forgot to give me snoring roommates and needed to even things out. I practiced some meditaton techniques and fell asleep. I woke up to even more loud snoring. Full of rage, I looked up to see it was not loud snoring roommate, it was new roommate. Just the worst, I grabbed all of my stuff and headed off to see the Dalai Lama.

No cameras allowed, but here’s my pass

There were a couple thousand people in attendance for the teaching, which was requested by Russian monks. Due to this, the Dalai Lama spoke in Tibetan, and then it was translated to Russian before being translated to other languages. I should have spent more time learning Russian. Using a radio was a brutal experience, between feedback and the signal cutting in and out, I remembered why we don’t use radios anymore. Not to mention that he would speak, then it would be translated, then translated again, so there were about five minute windows between when you would receive information in the language you actually understood. Regardless, it was cool to have seen the Dalai Lama. His voice was so calm and steady that it was almost like guided meditation. He only spoke for the first hour and a half of the scheduled four hours, so we left shortly after the next Lama began speaking.

From Peace To Chaos

I hung out around the city and got things together. The hostel asked me to do a small Instagram commercial for them, which I agreed to, even though I look a bit homeless as a mountain yogi. After that, I grabbed my things and headed to another bus, this time from Dharamshala to Delhi. This bus was significantly nicer. Usually, transportation in Asia states it will have power outlets and wifi, but they never do. This one wasn’t lying. The seats were also semi sleepers, meaning the legs reclined up as well. I had no neighbor, so I was able to spread out and get comfortable.

Some people have seen from my snapchat, but I sleep four to six hours a night, with three to four of those hours being deep sleep. On transportation, I can sleep for an hour at most. On this bus, I slept for eight hours of the twelve hour ride. It was amazing. I read for a bit and a listened to a podcast before falling asleep. A bit more reading after waking up and I was there. It was as great as I always suspected.

Upon entering Delhi, I expected to get blasted by a tuk tuk driver. Luckily, I was using Google Maps to make sure he was going the right way and was able to say something when he headed the wrong direction. We established that he was confused about where I was going. He took me to the right place and then tried to get me to pay him more because he drove the wrong way. We both laughed and I left.

The hostel stated it was in an upscale cafe district of Delhi, but I never found that area. The hostel was definitely geared towards Indian locals, which is impossible to tell from the HostelWorld posting, but I just needed to sleep there before my flight. I had no interest in doing any tourist things in Delhi, as it was over one hundred degrees and I am a bit over tourist things. It’s unfortunate that this is my final full day in Asia and I am in a hot, big city, but oh well.

I arrived five hours before the hostel check in, so I put my bags down and did some yoga on the rooftop before doing some yoga and eating some breakfast. After this, I roamed around to find an ATM. ATMs in India seem to be pretty hit or miss, so it usually takes about three before finding a working one. It was 10am and already too hot to be walking around.

Same Person, Different Timezone

I went back to figure out my taxi situation and see if there was a movie theater close. I agreed to wait to see Endgame until I got home to see it with my dad, so I haven’t seen one recently since India doesn’t play as many English movies as Thailand and Vietnam did. I found a fancy nearby mall playing the new Detective Pikachu movie, so I decided to venture there and get a ticket. The movie wasn’t for seven hours but most things in India require an Indian phone number to book, so I decided to do it in person. Upon arriving at the mall, I found it was way fancier than I expected.

The contrast is harsh between this mall and the streets outside

A few blocks from the mall looks a bit different

By this, I mean it was the fanciest mall I have ever seen. This is a harsh contrast to the fact that just outside on all sides are standard Indian streets. Random street stalls, garbage and stray dogs included. The mall was exclusively stores like Rolex and high tier fashion stores. I figured I could grab a ticket and sit in an air conditioned cafe for the next six hours, but the place was too fancy to just have a cafe and all of the surrounding places were open air restaurants. My plans were hosed.

I walked around for a bit before finding a small restaurant for lunch. I grabbed some chicken chowmein, which I was mad about paying too much for. When it came out, it was the size of my head and delicious, so I took back my anger. After the food, I sat around for a bit before venturing around to see if I could find a cafe. No luck, I headed into the mall to check out the restaurant that covered the whole first floor. It was a bit more open than I cared for but I figured I could just sit there and read. I got the menu and the regular cup of coffee was five dollars, ten times what a cup of coffee costs anywhere in India. I walked downstairs and found a giant food hall that had every type of cuisine imaginable, sweets and groceries. I sat down, ordered a scoop of ice cream(which was five times the price of ice cream anywhere else) and read for a bit before getting bored of how crowded the place was.

Again, I ventured out and found a small bakery. No wifi, no AC, but they were charging prices like they were still in the upscale mall. I grabbed a donut and wrote the majority of this post (oh, meta), before taking a walk around the park just north of the mall. The park didn’t have anywhere shaded to hide so I found another small restaurant with a fan and read a book while I waited for my movie time.

I entered the fancy movie theater and chuckled at the fact that my movie ticket was four dollars and a regular drink and popcorn was almost ten. Oh well, I grabbed some and headed for my movie. I have seen hundreds of movies over the years, so I have a pretty good grasp on how many trailers a place will play based on how nice the theater is and where it is. India threw me for a loop, they didn’t even let anyone in before the start time. Then they played about twenty minutes of trailers, standard for a big movie theater. Similar to Thailand, prior to the movie, everyone stood for the national anthem. At the start of the movie, a message came across stating that they was a point planned when it seemed best for an intermission. An intermission…in a movie that was less than two hours. I thought maybe they would plan it for the end of a scene but they must have just picked the very center part of the film. The movie stopped while a character was in the middle of a word. The lights came on and everyone rushed out for more snacks, even though you could order snacks inside the theater and it was only two hours. Twenty minutes later, the movie begun. If you’re keeping track, that’s forty minutes of non movie time for a movie that is less than two hours. Good movie, time to grab a tuk tuk home.

Following the movie, I contemplated heading to a night market, but decided to just go home and make sure everything was in order before leaving Asia for Europe in the morning. No tuk tuks outside of the theater, I realized it was my last night in Asia. My favorite thing to do is walk around cities at night, so I decided to walk home. Delhi is much cooler at night anyways, so I enjoyed my walk home. I got everything together and went to sleep in my bed that the air conditioning barely touched. I woke up hours before I needed to so I did some more yoga on the roof.

The city views in India don’t really hold a candle to the mountain views

It feels good to only write a post covering a week again, so this is the end. Expect weekly posts again with me making my way through Europe over the next month before hitting New York for the AVP NYC Open!

My Soul On Fire: Yoga, Vegetarianism, Meditation in India

The last travel post left off with me arriving at Akshi Yogashala in Rishikesh, India after some treacherous travel days. This post was postponed due to a weekly update off my life in the ashram not being very interesting, so I figured a big post covering the whole thing would be more worthwhile. Unfortunatly, that means this post will likely be four times as long as a usual one, and due to the fact that I wasn’t with my phone much, it will have significantly less pictures. That just means I will have to keep your interest with information.

Posted up with my favorite view

To start, “My Soul On Fire” is the name of two of my favorite episodes of Scrubs from its final season (the best show in existence, if you didn’t know) and ever since hearing the title, I have been obsessed with this phrase. Throughout this trip, I have had this constant feeling of my soul being on fire. Travel more, read more, learn more languages, write more code, make more friends, more more more. I was excited to finally write a post titled “My Soul On Fire” and saw yoga, meditation, and pranayama as the perfect chance to do so. My original thinking was that maybe all of this stuff would set my soul ablaze, and I could aptly name it, but after a month of slowing down, I realized that my soul has been on fire for a while now.

Akshi Yogashala ended up being the perfect choice for me. Rishikesh is brimming with yoga schools and I just wanted one that was Yoga Alliance certified, and they all are. My engineer skills came in handy when going through and cross referencing all of the reviews, number of reviews and types of yoga/classes taught at each. I got it from over two hundred down to five and then class starting time and tuition cost ended up putting me at Akshi. It was away from the busy streets of Laxman Jhula, had a nice courtyard right when you walked in and due to me being the only guy, got me a private room. So now for what I did there.

The view from outside the yoga hall

Just to keep this post a little more organized, I am going to break down each of the areas that I was taught then cover some things about Rishikesh and India and then do my usual story telling style. Without further ado, let’s begin.

The Only Routine With Me Is No Routine At All

I was never shy about saying that I was scared about spending a month in the ashram. It is likely quite obvious that I am a busybody and am always doing a million things at once. The daily schedule for the ashram was as follows:
05:30am – Tea
06:00am – Hatha Yoga
07:45am – Pranayama
09:00am – Breakfast
10:30am – Anatomy/Philosophy/Teaching Methodology
11:45am – Mantras/Adjustments and Alignment
01:00pm – Lunch
02:00pm – Break
03:00pm – Anatomy/Philosophy/Ayurveda
04:15pm – Ashtanga Yoga
06:15pm – Relaxation/Meditation
07:30pm – Dinner

Everyday. For four weeks. On Sundays, our day ended after lunch and Wednesdays, we had off entirely besides a planned excursion (I will cover these), but otherwise this was my life for a month. Needless to say, this was a significant change of pace for me. After the first week, I stopped going down for morning tea and opted to use that time to listen to music in my room. I am not going to give you a lesson on each of these things, but here’s a rundown of what each generally is and what we did in them from day to day.

Forget What You Know

This entire post really needs to be preempted with the fact that I signed up for this certification for the same reason I sign up for anything, I wanted the information for myself. If I can use the information to help someone else, perfect, but otherwise, I saw the potential for yoga to help me increase flexibility and reduce to some common injury areas for me. Also, doing things slowly, taking time to meditate and generally just focus on being calm are outside of my usual comfort zone, so I wanted to see if I could do it. I was pretty certain daily meditation or being a vegetarian would kill me, and I was almost right, but we will get to that later.

Spiritual is not a way that I would ever describe myself, and I tend to think that a lot of that stuff is just ignorance of facts but the more I have learned about things I had originally written off, I have found that it is just different words for the same thing. The amount of things that the Western world considers spiritual voodoo, is actually backed by science, but they just aren’t using the medical terms for it. A lot of the stuff I learned, works and is based on actual science that we also learned. Some of it is a bit more out there, and likely won’t make it into my normal routine.

Namaste all day

For the entire month, I made an agreement with myself that I would go into everything wholeheartedly as if it were something I believed in my whole life and after the month I would pick and choose which I would continue. I recommend this approach, it let me learn and enjoy a lot that I would have likely blown off had I not been so open minded.

Handy Notes

Here’s some quick terms that I am going to get out of the way so that I don’t have to repeat a million times and you don’t have to be confused when I mention them. Shoot me a message or an email if there’s a word I use in this post that doesn’t get covered.

Prana – Sanskrit for a unit of universal energy. Breathing brings this in and out of our bodies.

Asana – Sanskrit for pose. Techniquely means stable and comfortable, so even if you are in the correct pose, you are not in the asana unless you are holding it comfortably and stable.

External Yoga

Hatha Yoga is one of the six main paths of yoga. It is known as external yoga, because it covers the physical portion of what yoga pertains to, with Raja Yoga covering the internal. Hatha is the slow stretching yoga, usually paired with Vinyasa to create the fitness style yoga that is so popular in the Western world, but not here. Every day at 6am, we would slowly stretch out our bodies. A slow, monotonous daily routine that my brain took weeks to cope with without feeling the need to fall asleep once we hit the laying poses. Different sanskrit names and asana sequences filled the normal Hatha routine compared to our more standard Ashtanga practice. Hatha could change day to day depending on what part of us the teacher felt like we should be stretching that day. Hatha is likely the style I will teach anyone who wants me to introduce them to yoga, as it is less intense than Ashtanga and can be customized to each person or for specific goals. This class gave me a much greater understanding of the role each muscle and tendon plays in sitting, stretching and laying down.

The Expansion of Energy

In Sanskrit, Prana means energy and Ayama means expansion, so pranayama is the expansion of energy. Mostly, this was different breathing techniques. We learned a new one every day for the first few days and we would do a few sets of each breathing technique before adding a new one. By the end, each day consisted of doing an increased number of repetitions of five sets of different pranayamas. Each pranayama is described as helping different things, as well as being advised against for people with different ailments, from anxiety to depression to high blood pressure. Some increased the flow of energy, some slowed the heart rate, others increased focus. Alongside their desired effects, learning these techniques also taught us how to do different types of breathing. Abdominal, thoracic, ujjayi (throat) and yogic (all three at once) were all taught over the course of the class.

Alongside the different breathing types, we also learned to apply locks. These are said to keep energy from leaking out. There is a throat lock, an abdominal lock and the pelvic lock. Certain pranayamas called for different combinations of locks in their more advanced forms. The abdominal locks were actually a very common bodybuilding trick in the Frank Zane era for showing off abdominal control, which was an interesting skill to be taught and already know from the past. All of these further just increased attention to and control of the breath.

This class also included the shat kriyas, or body cleansings. Of the different ones, we had to practice three of them. The three we learned included the neti pot, rubber neti, and a specific dhauti. The neti pot, you have likely seen for cleaning your sinuses. Lean forward, pour in one nostril and watch water come out the other nostril, easy. The rubber neti required you to put one end of a long piece of rubber up your nostril and put it in until it entered your throat, at which point you pulled it out of your mouth. This was a big point of tension for a lot of people, but was no worse than anything in a Spartan, so I did it like it was an every day occurence. The final dhauti required you to drink three cups of warm salt water and then to vomit all of the water out, cleaning your stomach and esophagus. As I mentioned with one of the posts about food poisoning, I taught myself to puke on command year ago, so this was super easy for me, but not such a pleasant experience for everyone else. Overall, a cool class with an awesome teacher covering strict control of your body.

The rubber neti shat kriya

I Am A Soul, I Have A Body

The anatomy classes were things I had already learned during school and my personal trainer certification. These focused mainly on how breathing worked in the body and the functions of the spine. Learning each section of the spine and the muscles/tendons controlling these areas helped us to learn why certain asanas required certain muscles to be engaged or why certain adjustments should be made. Important for me, it helped with correcting some lower back issues caused my tightness from weightlifting and sitting at a desk. Other portions of the class were dedicated to showing the relation between yogic teachings and actual medical realities. For example, yogic teachings state that breathing brings prana into the body, so essentially oxygen, and the prana moves through seventy two thousand nadis to carry the energy throughout the body, which correlates to the blood vessels where the oxygen is carried through. How correct it is, I didn’t bother to check, but it was close enough that I never bothered fact checking.

This class was a bit slow for me as I knew it all, and being one of the only native English speakers, essentially functioned as a class for me to translate Indian English to something the other classmates could understand. It’s one thing to be fluent in a language, but to be able to understand technical terms is another thing entirely, compounded by the fact that those terms are being said by another non native English speaker. Overall, a good class to keep my scientific brain from writing off the whole experience as witchcraft and conspiracy theories.

Why Though?

The Philosophy class covered all of the things taught in the yogic teachings, from the definitions of all of these sanskrit words, to how energy functioned in the body, to the different types of yoga. Some of the main things were the main principles of yoga, such as the rules and regulations, as well as the different types of yoga and their uses. A ton of information here that helped keep things clear in the other classes.

Those Who Can’t Do, Teach

For three days, we had a teaching methodology class. This mainly covered things like how to structure a class, how to approach different situations, how and when to speak. A lot of this information we learned by experiencing our two yoga teachers lead us through sequeneces every day, but this covered a lot more of the planning and situations that will arise. A good course to have before our required teaching.

One Om Together

The course I was least excited for, mantras, ended up being one of my favorites. The course teacher was the wife of the director of the school and she was originally from Russia. She was awesome and was very clear about the fact that although all of the mantras mention different gods and Hindi things, that it was not inherently religious. We discussed different versions of mantra chanting and had to memorize about ten mantras. After learning them, we heard them everywhere, as they are usually sung over a melody and played like normal music anywhere else. The most simple mantra was just “Om” (Aum) which is the universal sound. It technically means god, but it is more symbolic of universal energy. This chant begins and ends almost every other mantra. Once you got the hang of it, it came more from your chest than from your vocal cords, and frequently, after about a dozen chants, you were told to focus on the feeling that was created from the chant. Try it, it makes focusing so easy.

The other mantras we learned were all meant for different things. Many were to receive help clearing negative energy or the create a bond with a teacher. Ashtanga yoga has a set opening and closing mantra. There is also a mantra that was done before any time we ate. My personal favorite was one to Ganesha (maybe you’ve heard me mention him before), that is said to help remove obstacles. Overall, a great class but we only had it for the first two weeks.

Good, But Could Be Better

Adjustments and Alignments were a source of dread for me when they started. Bulky muscles are not something that seemed to be common in the yoga community of Rishikesh, so mine were a common point of criticism for the classes. They held me back from certain things, as my muscles were able to counter a lot of the adjustments done, especially since the girls in the course were about half of my size and I can only relax my muscles so much. Add on to this that I work on computers and my hips and hamstrings are even tighter from that, and my flexibility is shot. My flexibility is quite high for someone my size thanks to volleyball, but the leg muscle from volleyball decreases my flexibility in certain areas. Oh well, many painful classes later, some of those issues have been reduced.

Showing off my newfound hip flexibility

The class essentially ran us through some common poses and what you can do to help adjust a student to the correct version of the pose, or variations you can give them to strengthen their body for the correct pose. It also covered some great things to do to open up your hips, hamstrings, shoulders and chest, all of which I plan to add to my normal routine so maybe one day I can actually be flexible.

Just Add Turmeric

Ayurveda is basically Indian Life Science. It covers the idea that each person is made up of some variation of the three doshas and each person’s personality and health is diffferent based on this combination. It was kind of cool to learn about, as my main dosha, Pitta, explains my body type, eating habits and generally necessity for cold and sweets. It covers different foods for people to each depending on the weather, eating and sleeping tips and some other things. Most of it was interesting, and if nothing else just promoted a healthier lifestyle. Some of the things were counter to what I have learned and personally experienced with nutrition, but like everything else, I will take the useful parts and discard the things I find less useful. This was another three day course, but there are many course offerings on just Ayurveda, so maybe one day I will learn more.

The Eight Limbs of Yoga

Ashtanga Yoga means the eight limbs of yoga. This form of yoga covers internal and external yoga. Unlike Hatha Yoga, this form is unchanging. Their are six different series, with each needing to be mastered before you can move onto the next. We learned the first series, which we were told takes about five years of daily practice to master. There is a set sequence of poses (which takes about an hour and a half) and specific moves for each inhale and exhale. This course was done by tradition, so we did the class with doors and windows closed, no fan, and no water, even though it was over one hundred degrees. They believe the sweat is purifying, so maybe I overpurified.

Personally, this was my favorite. I will cover the teachers later, but our teacher had been practicing daily for three years, and he was a great teacher. He brought a strict following of tradition and his voice was powerful. This was an hour and a half of constant poses, which is an insane amount of work. While it didn’t satisfy my body’s necessity for powerful work, it did leave me feeling like I did something. Unfortunately, due to lack of exhausting me, a lot of times it had me ready for a more power related workout following.

This is likely the type of yoga I will (and have been) continue practicing daily to keep up with practicing. It is a bit harder to teach, as it requires a bit more dedication and teaching the sequence took us about ten days of daily class. Not really something you can teach a beginner, and much less likely to appeal to someone who would be a more casual yoga practictioner.

Relax Your Forehead

Here is where the issue with my body being trained for powerful work after intensive cardio or stretching comes in. Following Ashtanga, we had relaxation or meditation. The same teacher as pranayama, his voice was one of the most soothing things I have ever encountered. Regardless, my body is always ready to work, and when it’s primed to go, relaxing is not an option. Sometimes I could full on meditate for about fifty minutes before becoming restless, but if I was already hyped up from Ashtanga, I would spend the entire hour restless.

My ability to enter a meditative state is pretty good, but staying in one is pretty weak. This is pretty common for me, as I don’t tend to rest. A normal person gets seven to nine hours of sleep, and during that gets one to two hours of deep sleep. As a reference, I get four to six hours of sleep a night, and get three to four hours a deeps sleep during that. I am all about efficiency, and that stands true with resting as well. When I shut it down, I shut it all the way down, but not for long. This is something I will work on, but I think going back to harder exercises will remove some of my restless, so I will play it by ear.

The course covered different meditation techniques, including things like staring into the flame of a candle, and different relaxation techniques, like relaxation. A really interesting class and something I would like more experiencing leading, and I think it was helpful to experience.

The Cast

In past posts, I only mentioned someone outside of Ryan and myself if their introduction is pertinent to a particular story. With this situation, I think at least a short introduction is necessary just to cover the different personality types. I was the only guy in the course, which growing up with all sisters prepared me for. There were seven other students in the two hundred hour course with me and one girl finishing up her final week from the previous course. There were also five other girls completing their three hundred hour course, as well as a translator for them as most of them were Russian and spoke little English. There were five teachers and some other people working at the ashram.

My classmates consisted of girls from Russia (the one completing her final week), two from Taiwan, one from Germany, one from Ireland, two from Brazil, and one from Chile. The other group consisted of four Russians and another Chilean, with the Russian translator being from Ukraine. Most of my time not speaking English was spent speaking Russian and Spanish, so I was happy to have that knowledge going in. Each of them came from different backgrounds, professions and varying levels of yoga experience, from current teacher to limited experience. On top of this, I was the youngest person in the course by a good margin. I was a bit worried about my lack of flexibility and being the only guy, but they all immediately felt like family and it was a joy learning all of these things with them.

A fire ceremony kicked off our time together

I will go into a bit more detail with the teachers, as their unique personalities brought something different to the table, which I think allowed me to construct what I think my desired teaching style will be if I ever pick up teaching yoga. We had to teach a one hour class for our certification, so I already practiced this a bit, but experiencing the different classes daily let me experience different teaching types to pick and choose the parts I liked best.

The Hatha teacher, who also taught Adjustment and Alignments, was very intelligent and straight to the point. A lot of his instruction came off as a bit harsh as a result, but the information was always spot on with no time wasted. From him, I learned a ton of techniques for working on flexibility issues, as well as what to look for when adjusting myself and others.

The Pranayama teacher, who also led meditation and relaxation, was a class favorite. The energy in every interaction with him was always pure joy, regardless of the situation. Even when he taught us the uncomfortable shatkriyas, he was coaching mental strength to people and brought such a positive attitude. As was mentioned before, his voice and manner of speaking was extremely soothing. For my required meditation in my class, I definitely stole is speaking style and cadence, which the other classmates said worked alongside confidence to make the experience very calming.

This man exudes to positive energy

The Anatomy teacher, also taught Philosophy and was the director of the school, was wildly intelligent and had an insane confidence in teaching any information. We had less personal time with him, but the knowledge he taught us formed the backbone of the other teachings.

I tried to convince him that he was a perfect height for volleyball, but something about dedication to yoga

Our Ashtanga teacher likely did the most in forming my teaching style, as his strict following of tradition as well as pinpoint accuracy in his means of communicating adjustments and alignments made everything so simple. As every inhale and exhale has a corresponding movement in Ashtanga, there is limited time to give or receive information , so every word must be chosen careful. This combined with his confident way of speaking allowed you to follow his voice and let your body follow along almost unconsciously. An admirable skill in a teacher of anything, especially something as intricate as moving the human body in odd positions for over an hour.

He only taught me Ashtanga so I’d be stretched for badminton

The Mantra teacher taught me the use of mantras as a focusing technique amongst other things, while pointing out their usefulness. They also allow you to introduce the class to following instruction and bonding together before any asanas are performed. Prior to this class, I usually stayed silent during mantras, but hearing an entire class perform a mantra is a pretty amazing thing.

I didn’t even know she was Russian for the whole first week

There were many other people in the ashram, including the people from the other course, but I think two of them deserve a special mention. Mukesh was mentioned in the previous post as he was the one who picked me up on a scooter and drove me back to the ashram at night when I arrived. He handled seemingly everything at the ashram. He led pre meal mantras, he handled our payments and any forms we needed, he fixed any issues we had. All around, he was delightful and helped whenever we needed it. The other person was Vidarth, the son of the director and mantra teacher. He was two and a half, spoke some Russian, Hindi and English, and generally brought joy to all of us. I have missed my neices and nephews since I have been gone, but this was the first time I had any extended time to hang out with kids. He sang mantras with us, flirted with the girls and was generally just a funny kid.

My man, Vidart, already spreading his vast knowledge

Becoming My Polar Opposite

Regularly throughout the course, other classmates would expound on how calm I was, and how they hoped to approach situations with my level of calmness. This isn’t me bragging, this is to point out how different my life was last month. No one who knows me would describe me as calm. I am all fire, usually competitive and on the move.

Beyond this, I am an avid meat eater. As of this writing, it has been thirty two days without meat for me. I plan to eat meat when I get to Europe, but said I would stay vegetarian for my stay in India. The first couple of days I felt tired and weak, but this was also likely from the significant decrease in protein, fat and overall calories. The sattvic style meals mostly consist of vegetables, broth and chapati. Occasionally, there are lentils and chickpeas but the amount of protein and fat was definitely not what my body was used to. Once I rectified this difference with desserts and the occasional dish outside of the ashram, I felt a bit better. I still noticed a significant decrease in size, although only a slight decrease in actual weight, but this could also be due to lack of blood in my muscles from not working out and not having any creatine in my system. Either way, it has been fine, although the focus has been more on carbohydrates with protein being harder to get. I miss the texture of meat and can’t wait to get back to it, but it allowed me to try some dishes I likely would have never tried.

Sometimes the meals at school definitely didn’t satisfy my American appetite

The cafes held it down on Indian food though

Rishikesh as a city is known as one of the holiest cities in India and the birthplace of Yoga. The holy river Ganges runs through the city and the area near where I took my course was literally filled with yoga, ayurveda and similar things. There were no other options, there was no meat sold anywhere, no books to buy outside of these topics, no alcohol. Living in Rishikesh almost forced you to live this lifestyle. I think the lack of choice made the reality easier to stomach.

Realistically, I sucked at keeping my focus purely to the practice. I spent eight hours a day meditating, doing yoga and learning similar topics. Never in my life have I had to study for things, my brain excels at holding information. Instead of studying the material we learned every day, I spent my minimal free time learning German, practicing web development, watching movies and reading books. So standard Sam stuff. I also spent some of the time practicing volleyball on the roof by myself, because I took our ball from Thailand, which helped keep me from being restless and helped me work on some stuff I learned from my olympic friends. Only so much can be changed at once I guess.

After the initial weakness from diet change, everything flowed pretty easily. With temperatures topping out at over one hundred and my general disdain for routine, there was a bit in the middle where I dreaded going to the lectures. A day or two where I spent sick in my room gave me a necessary break. Beyond this, the entire experience was amazing and allowed me to clear some things out of my head. It also allowed me to make some decisions that have been mildly haunting me about my future, as I couldn’t reconcile what I actually want and what I think I should do. Meditation definitely has its place in the busy mind.

All Work And No Play

On our full days off, we had one scheduled excursion. The first one was a mountain sunrise “hike”. I was pumped, I woke up at 4:30am excited to hike. What we really did was take a truck over an hour around the horrible, winding roads to a big staircase leading to a temple to view the sunset. A beautiful view, but not the hiking I was looking forward to. The second one was a Ganga Aarti performance. A nightly sunset ritual with mantra chanting and people moving varying sizes of handles set ablaze. Concluded with the standard blessing and forehead painting, this was a nice experience to see something more traditional on the river. The third excursion was rafting down the Ganges. I love rafting, and in the heat, the ice cold Ganges was perfect. Most of the girls had never been rafting, and the stronger rapids led to all of them screaming at the top of their lungs. This trip also included some jumps off of rocks into the water, which is always a fun way to increase your heart rate. The final excursion was an hour hike to a sacred cave which housed a Baba, a man whose life was entirely dedicated to meditation. He meditated in the cave for twelve years. After meeting him, we were brought into the cave. After the initial opening, we were asked to go further into the cave, which was a smaller opening used for meditation. One of the girls didn’t want to enter due to claustrophobia, and I wasn’t able to enter due to being too big for the narrow pathway leading to the second room. We meditated in the initial room with the Baba while the others meditated inside. Overall, each one exposed us to something new in Rishikesh.

Posing at the view where we saw the sunrise

The Ganga Aarti performance

Climbing back in the raft after leaping from that rock behind me

It’s really easy to grow your hair out when you just meditate in a cave all day

Outside of the excursions, we made many trips into town for dinner, dessert and to check out the shopping options. I found some new dishes that I will likely be ordering from Indian restaurants and desserts I will be making for events. I also got asked to play volleyball by some locals, which was a fun experience. The net was in the middle of a dirt field, and although some of the locals were good, they all insisted playing opposite me, so most of it was spent playing three versus eight or nine. They were also all hard court players, which isn’t exactly my favorite style of volleyball. Otherwise, I was hiding in my room or hanging out with my classmates.

The Holy City

Rishikesh was my first real exposure to India besides the ride from Delhi. There are a lot of similarities to Southeast Asia but tons of differences. The city is mostly silent, besides cars and scooters laying on their horns for almost no reason. Scooters and cars ride in both directions on the almost single lane roads. Trucks are filled to the brim with humans and drive with almost no logic. People ride scooters across bridges and down walkways that are too narrow for two people, yet they will lay on the horn behind you as you are blocked by another scooter or a cow. Patience is key here.

I guarantee both of this scooters were laying on their horn when I took this

Cows are sacred in India, and thus they pretty much do as they please. They block narrow walkways and lay in the middle of the street. The go to the bathroom wherever and whenever they want. Occasionally, an entire horde will block an area and you just have to sneak past them. They are nice enough though, so we pet them and fed them our flower necklaces every once in a while. They are absolutely everywhere in the city though.

There is at least one cow in Rishikesh

This cow got my respect and Thays’s flower necklace

Most of the month, Rishikesh was above forty degrees Celsius (over one hundred Fahrenheit), so sweating was constant. This made it almost impossible to have the energy to do anything outside of yoga. Luckily, the holy Ganges River was only about a ten minute walk and stays between ten and fifteen degrees Celsius ( fifty to sixty degrees Fahrenheit) and we headed there whenever we got the chance. The extreme temperature change gave us a chance to cool off, as well as time to work on some meditative breathing to be able to enter the water. Trips to the river also included locals approaching you to take selfies or facetime their friends video of you, with or without asking permission. Overall, a saving grace in the brutal heat.

I will never get sick of Ganges views

Other than that, the city is mostly yoga schools, ayurveda clinics, merchandise shops or cafes. Your options are limited on what to do outside of the yogic lifestyle, so we usually opted to just hang out in cafes or walk around. The girls spent a lot more time shopping than me, because I have no patience for this. There are some things I will miss about the peaceful city, but I was ready for a change when I left.

The Culmination

My meditation guiding skills are enough to put everyone to sleep

Our course came to an end with each of us having to teach a course. My course consisted of a beginning and ending mantra, five minutes of pranayama, one hours of asanas followed by ten minutes of guided meditation. It was interesting to see how everyone turned the same information into completely different classes. We also had to take a short multiple choice test on the information we learned, which we all passed.

The whole crew got their certificates

And then got real lazy after a long photo shoot

Our final day concluded with a ceremony where each of us got to talk about our experience, followed by the teachers telling us about their experience teaching us and then each of us getting our certificates. Following getting our certificates, we all ventured to cool off in the Ganges.

One day, I will grow up and get serious

But for now, I’m just an overgrown child

Now, with another certification, my soul is a little less aflame, I am a certified yoga teacher, and back to living out of a backpack. Before leaving Rishikesh, I visited the famous Beatles Ashram and then made my way to Dharamshala, home of the Dalai Lama, but that’s for the next post. As usual, let me know if there’s anything else you want me to expound on or especially bored you. Until next time, Namaste.

Goodnight, Rishikesh

The End of an Era: March 21st – April 6th

For starters, this post will be considerably longer than the past ones. This post will cover over two weeks, as opposed to the usual one week. The reasons for this are that the last two weeks have been extremely time consuming, I was trying to truely enjoy each moment I had left on Koh Phangan and with the yoga course being a routine, I will do a separate post for that all together. For the reason of enjoying each moment, my phone didn’t come out very often, so pictures will also be limited unfortunately. If I can find the time, I will continue to do weekly posts before the end of the yoga course, covering some topics I have been meaning to write on (and feel free to suggest some topics/questions you want to be enlightened on since I have been traveling so much). So let’s start where we left off.

Old Friends, New Levels

Ryan and I made our way back to our beloved Koh Phangan (the island from the second Thailand tournament), decidedly one of our favorite destinations from the whole trip. Our taxi to flight to flight to bus to ferry all went very smoothly and just about on time as we imagined. The ferry ride to Koh Phangan from Surat Thani took us into the night, so we got a really cool view of the blood moon, which looked gigantic over the island of Koh Phangan. One of my favorite things about how beautiful stars and the moon are is that it is difficult to get a picture to capture that, which I think just adds to the experience. We arrived to the island and received some inflated taxi prices, but we aren’t new here. We walked away and demanded a price we knew was far. The songthaew driver followed, because he has to drive far either way, so he might as well take any more money he can get. He quietly agreed to our lower price on the condition that we do not tell the other passengers what we paid. Score. We head to Haad Rin, back to SK Guesthouse where we stayed the previous month. A friend from the previous month grabbed us a three bed room for one thousand baht, or thirty three American dollars per night(Thanks, Martin!). Three beds, you ask? Surprise guest from Cleveland, Aaron Tenhuisen.

Aaron and I met playing each other at NEO and when Ryan got hurt, we played a bit together. During a tournament, I mentioned this trip and he mentioned that he was going to travel through Patagonia and India. We also discussed similar views on getting better at volleyball. So when we found training with Olympians in a cool destination, I naturally shot him a message to let him know the option was there if he had the vacation days. We arrived and greeted Aaron, who had already checked into the room. We hit up some favorite dinner spots and got some sleep.

The following day, we went and peppered on the beach and then headed over to Tommy’s, where the camp would take place. We got an early jump on meeting some other camp attendees and got back to moving in the sand after a month on the motorbikes. We had the luxury of knowing the island and some of the people already, so we gave Aaron the run down on where to go and what to watch out for.

How Do You Get to Carnegie Hall? Practice.

Players from all over the world showed up to learn

The camp started with an introduction to the team running BeachBox Camps. Amongst some other players from Latvia facilitating BeachBox Camps, the coaches were Latvian Olympian Aleksandr “The Lion King” Samoilovs, Canadian Olympian (and now attempting to represent America in 2020) Chaim Schalk, Latvian professional and brother of Samoilovs Olympic partner Toms Smedins, and Russian professional Elena Ponomarev. After a brief introduction, we were split into groups and set off to play sideout. Essentially, you are matched with another person, and you serve to the defending team. If the serving team gets the point, they move to the defending side. If the defending team gets the point, they get a point. Every time you were removed from the court, you would grab a new partner. Ryan and I were on the same net with Aaron on another. I felt fresh and played out of my mind, but not well enough to get moved up a group. The coaches were watching our games and adjusting the groups. At the end, we found we were placed in the second group, with group one being a bit higher level than us.

With about fifty attendees, the coaches did a pretty good job setting the groups from such a short sample size. The only blaring mistake was Aaron, he was placed in the last group. It could have been because it was his first experience with the international ball or the coaches just never saw him doing anything spectacular when they looked. Either way, we told him it would get sorted out. After the trials, we set out on a hike as a group.

The view from the first day camp hike

Normally, I avoid things like hiking when I know I am about to play a lot. Forcing the muscles I am going to require a lot of power from to show off their endurance skills beforehand is usually not the best combination. Either way, we hiked up one of the smaller mountain paths near Haad Rin and got a cool view of the coast. We even had some local dogs accompany us some of the way. After that, we headed through the city to the southern part to check out the sunset beach. After seeing the makeshift pier, we walked along a boardwalk to a small lighthouse. From there, we head up another large hill to a hotel bar, which included an infinity pool overlooking Haad Rin beach. A quick cool off in the pool (having a bunch of sweaty volleyball players around probably ruined some girl’s nice infinity pool Insta pic, sorry!) and then we headed down the rocks back to the beach. Some lunch and then off to the first day of practice.

Anyone who has played with me knows I prefer consistency. I always bump set to eliminate doubles and to keep things consistent. For training, I figured what better way to learn clean hand sets than to exclusively do them. The first practice was a lot of passing drills with Chaim Schalk. Luckily for me, Chaim’s coaching style is in line with my learning style. My hands had been pretty consistently clean, but hitting the desired location on weird passes was an issue. A few mental cues from Chaim and I was hitting all my hand sets. Day one of training over and we were off for some dinner and to relax.

I’m not very tall, but Toms and Chaim definitely tower over me

After the first day of training, the coaches realized they made a mistake putting Aaron in the last group, so we suggested he be put in ours. The second day of training started at 9:30am, which meant the sun was pounding down on us. Unfortunately, the motorbike trip didn’t keep my nutrition and hydration up to my usual standards. It was hot, I was dehydrated and we were running line to line defensive drills. This training was with Samoilovs and I had no intention of giving up during his training. A little over halfway through, we were doing defense drills followed by hitting. My energy was non existent and we were covering court and then having to jump into the air to hit hard. I tried to play it cool and do some roll shots, but was told to actually swing. Between each drill I would slowly trudge through the sand, saving my energy for the drill itself. Spartan training had taught me that I had much more in the tank when I felt like I had to stop, but that didn’t help things.

After I started to fade, sitting between each drill and running to the water whenever possible, Ryan and another member of the group decided to sit out. Now there were only enough of us participating to properly do the drill, meaning there was no sitting out time. My perserverance had damned me. Post practice, I grabbed my things and walked straight back to the hotel for a cold shower and air conditioning.

The second training later in the day went a lot better. It was still hot but I was more hydrated. My muscles were definitely beaten up by the first practice and now we were doing blocking drills with Toms, the most intense of the coaches. I am a defensive player, so I rarely block and when I do, it is wildly unorthodox. Repeated block jumps left me edging death again. Until I served a ball short on Ryan, causing him to dive and his also dehydrated calf muscle to cramp. He hit the ground in pain and began yelling that he pulled his muscle. Looking at it, I immediately told him it was a cramp and he said he didn’t know the difference so it was pulled. Science. Either way, it bought me some time to relax. Sorry, Ryan. On the bright side, Toms taught us some great footwork that really alleviated the weakest part of my blocking, pulling off the net. Day two of training done, off to Mexican for dinner.

The crew with the pros

We all ate a small pre-dinner, as we had had Mexican twice on this trip and both times had been underwhelming portion wise. The entire group loaded into songthaews and we road to a Mexican place in Thong Sala. Some decent food and decent portions and afterwards we got to hang out with Samoilovs and Renars, one of the people facilitating BeachBox Camps. Now that we had met people, it became more of training with friends which made it even better.

A Level Player, Olympic Level Smack Talker

Since the start of my volleyball career, I have been known to refer to myself as a “C level player, Open level smack talker”, but my skills have improved in the last two years, and I guess my smack talk had to to. We’ll get to that though.

Two more trainings on the third day and then there was a night tournament planned. We were told it would be fours, but when we arrived it was sixes. Sand sixes, my least favorite version of volleyball. It gets a little more fun when you add olympic players. I was put on a team with Chaim Schalk, Ryan had Elena Ponomarev and Aaron was on a team with Samoilovs.

The first game should have been easy for us. We made a ton of mistakes, hitting into the net and missing serves. I thought maybe Chaim would kill us all and just play by himself. Game two was a little better but still not a win. The next two games, we got it together and starting putting up some points. Chaim was having a blast running indoor calls with us. Dan did a lot better than I did, as he has played a lot of indoor. I was mostly just smiling and nodding and relying on my speed and unorthodox style to put some points down. Luckily, our losses were to the last place team and the undefeated team, so our victories against the other two teams put us in the position to go to finals. It was a mostly for fun tournament so it didn’t last very long and was just straight to finals. Our team had been making it work but we were facing the undefeated team in finals.

Finals was a blast. Matched against Aaron, our friend from the first time in Koh Phangan, Matias and Samoilovs, you know there was a lot of smack talk. Towards the middle of the game, I served a ball to Samoilovs outside shoulder and it went shooting into the ocean. Everyone began cheering but when they looked back, I was gone. I had started running and yelling “Book me a flight! I did it!”. After the dramatics, we played a close game that ended with us winning. We didn’t get a video of me acing Samoilovs but Ryan did grab a video of Samoilovs refusing to give me my medal because I aced him. The most fun night of sixes came to an end and we all went to sleep and had a free day following.

Beachbox Camp night tourney champs

Learn to Relax

For the free day, the camp offered a trip around the island to see some waterfalls and other sites, but we really needed the break after going straight from the Vietnam trip to training. Ryan and I grabbed breakfast and pretty much hid in the room while Aaron went on a hike and went to play. I got my India visa handled and later headed over to the courts to play. I got some good games in and after a few hours decided that my body needed rest. I went and grabbed two dinners and Dan and I decided to get them to go and go watch more pick up. Samoilovs had been traveling with his best friend and wanted to play some doubles, so we had to get back on the court.

Dan is a pretty good player, so to get points, my hand sets just had to be on point. Samoilovs didn’t jump to attack or serve, unfortunately, stating that he had to see my insurance first. Dan and I both got some aces on him but sadly lost our first game. We played him in the rematch and grabbed the win. We never had a chance for the rubber match, so I guess I can say I’m 1-1 against olympic players. Definitely an experience I likely will not get again.

Found my new partner for this season

Severely tired, I laid on the side of the court and said I was done playing. Sandra, one of the girls running the camp, offered me up to play and the other guy ran to change. I felt bad saying no after he went to change, so I played. Big mistake, I woke up the following morning with the tightest hamstring.

Everything is Better With Friends

The next two days were the standard two a days of training, but there was a half moon party on the island on that second day. Our final day of training. We all decided to skip it since it was a bit expensive for Thailand and we had the King of the Beach tournament the following day. The group decided to host some games of sand sixes with some special rules. Any time the ball hit the ground inside the court without being touched by that respective side’s team, that team had to drink. They also had to drink if they lost three consecutive points. Our team was at a slight disadvantage as Aaron and I both brought rum and Aaron is big on sharing. Team Rum definitely was not the most coordinated, but we had the most fun. Later in the night, we ended up playing much better and actually pulling out a win. A second time of actually having fun playing sand sixes. BeachBox has some magic skills. Everyone headed off for the Half Moon Party and we got some much needed sleep.

The following day was the King of the Beach tournament, my favorite tournament format. The tournament was split into groups 1 and 2 and groups 3, 4 and 5. Then everyone grabbed a number and the nets were made in numerical order. I got the unlucky draw and was the only one from group 2 on my net. Even worse, my first game was against the two players that everyone thought would win, my good buddies Matias and Dan. I played the worst I think I have ever played against some really good players and didn’t feel good about any of it.

After getting out, I just watched everyone else. Ryan also played poorly and didn’t make it through. Aaron tied for a spot in the next round but had to play a game of volley tennis to take the spot and didn’t end up winning. So we were all out. The BeachBox logo is a lion (because Samoilovs is “The Lion King”) so Sandra added some art to my lion tattoo. Finals ended up being three of the guys from my net, so I didn’t feel too bad. It was a good end to the camp. Following the finals, we were all given certificates for completing the camp and the winners of the tournament were given medals and actual game worn jerseys from the pros.

After that, we all went to a white party at the infinity pool bar mentioned earlier. I don’t travel with white clothes, so I went and picked up a white tanktop with a skull made of flowers on it. The drinks were wildly expensive even for America there, so I kept drinking to a minimum. We all swam and hung out and said goodbye one last time. On the walk there, Samoilovs mentioned that he had wanted the tanktop I had on when he saw it in the store, so I gave it to him, another cool experience I probably won’t get again. Party over, everyone said their goodbyes.

Ryan is a party animal…that animal just happens to be a cat

Time Flies

The following day was our last day with Aaron and some of the others from the camp. Woken up with demands of what was going on, I stepped in and planned the day. We would all rent scooters, go to Malibu beach (where the other volleyball nets were) and then head somewhere for sunset. We grabbed breakfast and figured out how many people we had. Eight people, so four scooters. Ryan and I were automatically drivers due to our Vietnam experience. I hadn’t missed driving after how much we did in Vietnam, and the lack of maintenance on the scooters there didn’t make me happy to get back on one.

We made out way to Malibu Beach and were all way too tired to do any serious playing, so we played some laid back fours. Honestly, a great way to say goodbye as we were all involved and just having fun. Some of the group left for the ferry and I found us a bar the watch the sunset.

One last day of play at Malibu Beach before people start leaving

We made the trek up to 360 bar in the northwest corner of Koh Phangan. The road up to the bar takes you up some pretty steep dirt roads, but we made it. When you park, there is a beautiful view of the ocean. Everyone started taking pictures and a member of the group, Paul, exclaimed how awesome it was. His girlfriend, Milla, pointed to some garbage and replied “Yes, look at this beautiful garbage.”. “And to think he was going to propose.”, I retorted. “Maybe later.”, he shot back. We entered the bar to see the even cooler view to the west that included to island of Koh Ma.

360 has a pretty good sunset view

Prices were reasonable, and a purchase was required, so we all grabbed dinner and I got an ice cream bar. While sitting there chatting, Paul pulled something out of his pocket while facing Milla. Confused, I thought “Paul is so dedicated to that joke from earlier, he even found what looks like a ring box.”. As he opened it, Dan and I both sat there with jaws open. Milla was equally dumbfounded. “You still haven’t said yes.”, Paul blurted out. An awesome day topped off with a marriage proposal. We grabbed a bunch of pictures and watched the sunset before taking off. This week will be a hard one to top.

The following day, we went to check out an insane hotel that we all thought was a temple. Ornate architecture and several pools were scattered along the staircases as the property went down to the beach. We checked everything out and went to sit on the beach for a bit. After that, we returned our scooters and grabbed a taxi to Thong Sala, where Aaron would grab the ferry. A stop to Phantip market for his last taste of authentic Thai food and then we took him to the ferry. Traveling so weird in that you spend all day for several days with someone and then they are just gone. Goodbye never quite covers it.

Aaron showed off his new shorts at the fancy temple hotel

Friendship Catalyst

I have often said that traveling creates my favorite types of friendships. In hostels, you instantly become best friends with people. Especially in a language with a different native language than your own, that person may be the only person you know in that country and maybe even who speaks your language. This creates bonds faster than any other common situation. Ryan was staying on the island after I planned to leave so I shared a hotel with Dan, our new French born American (we’re claiming him) friend from the camp. Dan and I negotiated prices for some scooters near the ferry so we could drop them off when we left. After that, we grabbed a bungalow in one of the western beach towns and headed off to play some volleyball. I played horribly again so I decided my brain needed a volleyball break.

These are a few of my favorite things

Following the play, we grabbed some dinner and decided to go check out some neighboring beaches. Unlike the always lively Haad Rin we were used to, all of these beaches seemed to die down at 9pm. We rode to several beaches and all of them were dark with no visitors. It was an interesting sight to see the stars with no light pollution and the ocean lit by nothing by boats and the moon. We had planned an early morning hike so we headed home.

Dan had been the one really pushing to wake up at 7am to do the big hike, so when I woke up at 8am, I assumed he wouldn’t be happy with me. When I sat up and saw him laying in his bed, I didn’t feel as bad. We grabbed free breakfast at our hotel and ate looking out onto the beach. In general, I do not appreciate things in the moment as much as I think I should so on this trip I have tried to be very conscious of appreciating things. Eating delicious food on one of the most beautiful beaches on the planet was definitely something I made sure to appreciate.

Life is definitely not bad

After breakfast, we met up with Ryan at a nearby waterfall. Due to it being dry season, there was pretty much no water, so it was just rocks. What was supposed to be a short hike turned into over two kilometers. The lack of water let us scramble up the rocks where the water usually runs, making it more of a climb than a hike. After over an hour of walking, we hit a viewpoint of the entire western coast of the island.

The view of the western half of the island

Ryan climbs up where a waterfall should be

I stopped up to the beach to watch Matias and Dan play, but resisted the urge to play to give my brain and body the much needed break. After they were done playing, Dan and I grabbed some Indonesian food that was recommended to us and checked out the night market. I had forgotten how much I missed getting a bunch of different foods for cheap at street markets. On the way bck from the night market, we passed what looked like a carnival at one of the wats. We checked out a bunch of local games, including a ring toss where you could win entire bottls of liquor. I saw soft serve and got a huge vanilla strawberry cone for less than a dollar. This is something I will be sad to leave behind when I leave Asia.

Bliss

Dan headed to Koh Samui for the day so I planned to take it easy that day. I remembered that Treva, my old neighbor from Ohio State, the one we randomly ran into in a tea shop in Chiang Rai, happened to be on the island that day so I messaged her and found out she was staying at the same hostel as me. She didn’t have a motorbike yet so I offered to scoot her around. Not feeling safe riding without her having a helmet, I stopped at some rental shops to get her a helmet. We stopped at three and all of them wanted more money to rent her a helmet than to give us another bike and a helmet included or just straight up told us no. We opted to get breakfast near where I rented the bike and just got her a helmet where I rented my bike.

After we rode around a bit, I decided I should do some snorkeling. I asked the hostel clerk where I could rent a snorkel and for how much, especially since I had been meaning to try out those new full face snorkel masks. He gave me a confused look and handed me an older style snorkel and separate mask and said I could just take them for free if I brought them back. Not exactly what I wanted but I always down for free. I rode to the nearby beaches that had been suggested for snorkeling. I walked into the water and began swimming through, passing all sorts of different fish and coral. I forgot how beautiful marine life is and was thankful it is so easy to float in salt water. I also remembered why they suggest not have a moustache when wearing a snorkeling mask. It makes it near impossible to form a seal between the mask and your face. Constantly, my mask was filling with water. I continued to breathe through the snorkel and ignored the burning as the salt water filled the nose area of the mask. I walked across the sandbar to Koh Ma and then road off to a few other beaches.

I’ll miss beach dogs a lot

I took the snorkel back and picked up Treva and back to Malibu beach we went. Ryan and I saw some of the people from the volleyball camp and played some sideout with them. After Ryan stopped playing, it was me and three Swedish players who were all better than me. They made a bet on the game in Swedish and then I was notified of the bet. We lost the game and somehow I ended up buying beers for everyone because of it. Thank god Thailand prices are cheap. Back home to take care of some things for India and finally get some sleep.

The End Approaches

It is always funny to me how motivated I become as a deadline approaches. I was fine to lay around the island and do nothing until we played volleyball for days and in the last few days, I had to do everything I could. I made some plans for us to go learn some archery on my second to last day. An older German man named Thomas ran an archery range near where we were staying. For five dollars per person, you got thirty minutes, which included the owner helping you calibrate the sights and teaching you the proper way to shoot an arrow. After each of our bows were calibrated, we went six rounds of shooting. After everyone finished shooting, we retrieved our arrows and Thomas taught us how to add up our scores. As a child, I loved shooting bows and it is still a very satisfying thing to do. Before I left, I had wanted to buy a bow and start that as a hobby but it was a decent investment when I knew I would be fleeing the country (bows don’t really fit in a forty liter backpack and airports probably don’t like them). Side note, there are some really cool places to go shoot in Cleveland if anyone has interest in starting it as a hobby. After the thirty minutes, we all had sore hands so it was the perfect amount of time.

We all went to play and I finally felt like I was back to playing better. Malibu beach is tucked in the Northern coast of Koh Phangan, so sitting in the water post game was a nice relaxation. I had wanted to hit my favorite Haad Rin restaurant, Mama Schnitzel, one last time but no one else wanted to, so I made the thirty minute ride alone. Afterwards, I stopped at the night market for one last sticky rice and mango. We made some plans to do the big hike to the highest viewpoint on Koh Phangan that we missed earlier in the week early in the morning. We were all set to meet there at 7:30am.

When I woke up at 8:15am, I was filled with a bit of regret. It was my last day on the island and everyone was hiking without me because I slept through my alarms. I dropped my bags off because Dan and I were again splitting a room for my last night and stopped off to grab water and snacks. The hike took an estimated one and a half to two hours. I sidelined my regret for missing the hike with everyone and remembered that most of my friends are humans. Lucky for me (and thanks to Jeff), I have that Spartan blood and my body is always ready to blast up mountains. I rode to the hiking trail, strapped my sandals tight, removed my shirt and put an audiobook on my headlines. One hour later, completely soaked from the hour of steep hiking, I arrived at the top to find my friends. They had only beaten me by thirty minutes. The viewpoint was honestly underwhelming, but the hour hike alone was something I had forgotten was such a calming experience for me. We grabbed some pictures and then headed back down the trail.

The view from the Khao Ra hike

We headed into town for lunch and then all met back up to play some volleyball. Ryan and I played our last game together and then we all headed to Zen beach so see why it was so popular for sunset. The beach was filled with yogis, people practicing poi, juggling and other skills, and a drum circle. I grabbed a big ear of grilled corn and we all sat and watched the sun creep down behind the ocean. I will never get sick of sunsets over water. We grabbed dinner and ice cream and I said some goodbyes. I headed home and made sure everything was packed and everything was in order for my journey in the morning.

I get why people go to Zen Beach every day

The Storm Before The Calm

I woke up and rode to return my bike. Ryan and Dan met me for breakfast and I finally tried Thai rice porridge. My day would consist of a ferry, a bus, a flight, a taxi ride, another flight, a layover, flight, layover, one last flight and then a taxi ride. It would be about twenty four hours from leaving Koh Phangan before hitting my ashram in Rishikesh, India. Ryan joked that something obviously bad would happen with all of those moving parts, mostly because I was involved. I let my anxiety about the situation subside and enjoyed our final breakfast together.

They walked with me over to the ferry and Ryan and I took a picture together in front of the port together. Over three months of being together every day and it came to an end just like that. My deep love for films and literature always leaves me feeling unsatisfied with goodbyes. I always feel like they should be grand or somehow notable. Three months of adventuring through three countries, countless new friends and a ton of new skills that most people never even think to learn in their lives. All of that has to end with something crazy, right? The action packed trip of a lifetime with your best friend doesn’t just abruptly end…in the movies. We hugged and said goodbye and I walked to the ferry. Hollywood leaves us with such high expectations.

After over three months, this is our final picture together

I sat on the ferry and the wave of emotion and anxiety overcame me. Either of us will be quick to tell you that I handled all of the planning and things for the trip, so I wasn’t worried about being stranded or having to handle anything for the remaining travels alone. Now, I was truly alone. My anxieties were not about dealing with the bad things alone, but not having someone with me to experience the good things. Had I appreciated the time as best I could? Three months is a lot of time to spend nonstop with a person, I am sure there are a ton of situations that I could have handled better or enjoyed more. Other than try to appreciate the insane amount of things that we did in the past three months, there was little I could do while sitting on the neverending ferry ride than reminisce.

The ferry that took me from paradise

My ferry finally arrived and I sat at the port and waited for my bus. I took my bus to the airport and made sure I made it to the correct gate. I watched Thai hard court volleyball nationals on a fuzzy television while I waited two hours for my flight. The plane arrived, but boarding didn’t begin. I had three and a half hours for my next layover, and the airport I would land at was thirty five minutes from the airport I had to leave from. Thirty minutes later, we still weren’t boarding. The women at the gate desk informed me it would leave any minute. Thirty more minutes and we took off. Over an hour delay for less than a one hour flight. Now I was down to just over two hours to get to my next flight. The delay also pushed my journey between airports into rush hour time.

I arrived at DMK and had to make to BKK. I acknowledge that the free shuttle would be too slow and headed to the taxi area. The airport taxi area had a queue system and I definitely had no time for that. I opened grab and called a cab and walked ten minutes from the airport for it to pick me up. When I told the cab driver my flight was in two and a half hours, his eyes got huge. I wouldn’t be at that airport for two hours. I told him I have to try. Google said it would take one and a half hours and Google hadn’t failed us yet.

The driver spent the first ten minutes of the ride telling me how I probably won’t make my flight. Great social intelligence from this guy. Google suggested hoping off the expressway and taking streets to avoid a blockage. When I mentioned it, he said no, Google is wrong and continued forward. Google’s predicted time shot up twenty minutes. My anxiety skyrocketed.

We continued forward and Google suggested another change of route that would knock off six minutes. I looked at his GPS and it suggested the same thing. I pointed out that it would save six minutes and he told me six minutes was nothing. I explained that when I am down to twenty five minutes, six minutes is huge. This started a huge argument that ended in me asking him to please take the route the GPS was suggesting. Angrily, he got off the highway…at the wrong exit. Now we sat at a red light while he yelled about me not trusting him and how I would definitely miss my flight now. I tried to explain that he got off at the wrong exit but he was too busy yelling. Cool, now I am late and am getting yelled at. Why didn’t I call a motorbike taxi? They don’t care about traffic and I don’t have to converse with them. My mistake for turning my back on motorbikes.

The driver continued and Google suggested he get back on the expressway. He passed it, exclaiming “Oh, now you want expressway? I thought you didn’t want to be on the expressway before. You make no sense.”. I started some breathing techniques, because I was clearly not going to explain to this man how GPS directions work and I really didn’t want to continue an argument and end up ejecting him from his own taxi. I called Citi to see my options, and they told me that because I was checked in, I had to deal with the airline. I called the airline and they failed to pull up my flight at all, so there was definitely nothing they could do. I hopelessly sat in the backseat watching my ETA approach my flight time.

As we neared the airport, I pulled out money to pay him. He looked at the money and said “What? No tip?”. My usual disdain for people expecting tips was compounded by the fact that this man had actively cost me time and added to my anxiety. I threw him an extra twenty baht and started putting my bags on. As soon as he pulled up, I hopped out and sprinted to the international departures security line. I asked them if I could still make the flight, they waved me through. Twenty five minutes until departure time. I got through security. My bag beeps. That damn screwdriver from Vietnam had made it through four flights, of course it would get stopped now. I reach in, throw out the screwdriver and run off with my bag. I hit passport control. I make it through. Fifteen minutes until departure time. I made it through security and passport control in ten minutes, I got this. I see my flight on the board. “Final Call”, it flashes. I am in C and the flight is in E. I start sprinting wit my almost thirty pounds of bags. It must have been about a kilometer. I began breathing heavy. My legs wanted to quit. I reach the gate, I see the plane. I arrive as a man is locking the gate. “I am on that flight, please let me in.”, I tell the man. “Closed, get another ticket.”, he replies. I plead, telling him I have three other flights. He again responds to get another ticket. I tell him the plane is still there. Another no. Two attendants come out and tell me they have to take me back to immigration. For the first time in I don’t know how long, I genuinely wanted to cry.

They take me the long walk I had sprinted back to immigration and cancel my departure stamp. I am defeated. I walk to an outlet to charge my phone and call my mom. I just want to talk to someone who is not involved to refrain from yelling. I have had Chase handle similar issues with ease, but now I have a Citi card. Not a mistake I will be making again. The flight I missed with a rewards flight booked through Citi. I had another flight in the morning through Citi rewards that had been booked within twenty four hours, and had been eligible for a full refund of points. The initial delayed flight that caused the whole ordeal was booked with my Citi card. I called them, and dealt with the horrendous mess that is their automated system. When I finally got a representative, they immediately transferred me to travel rewards. I never ended up figuring how to dispute the initial delayed flight. I discussed with travel rewards about options for the flight I missed. They explained that they couldn’t help and I had to discuss with the airline. I asked them to cancel my morning flight and refund my points and book me a later flight. Again, they told me that because I was checked in, they could not help. Great, I am doing a myriad of travel planning on poor airport wifi.

I call the missed flight. They tell me that for one hundred and sixty dollars I can have the morning version of the flight I had missed. That’s the best price I had seen. I took it. I checked the AirIndia site for any signs of being able to check out, but all of the reference codes I had been given, including the one to check in to the flight, did not find my flight. I called them and waited on hold for forty minutes without ever reaching a representative. It was now 10pm, I had a flight at 8am and still had to book a hotel. I figured I had done my due diligence, a Citi supervisor could override something. I dealt with their horrible automated interface again. The representative heard my story and apologized, putting me directly through to a supervisor. Immediately she told me she could not help me. I explained to her that none of the numbers they gave me worked and I was on hold for forty minutes with no reply. She told me to wait for longer. Never again will I get a Citi card.

I sat on hold for another hour with AirIndia while booking a hotel and waiting for the shuttle. I finally got a representative. The English was not the best. I explained that I needed to check out of the flight. She asked to cancel the flight. I said no, just check me out. She said she would do that I would receive a confirmation. I asked a second time about the confirmation, she replied yes, I never received one. I arrived at my hotel at midnight. I offered to carry in the bags of an older American couple. While I was carrying their stuff, they were arguing with the front desk about an accidental double booking they needed to cancel. I just wanted to sleep. They walked away to try to cancel while I checked in. Right after I paid, the woman said they couldn’t cancel their room so I could have it for free if I wanted it. Right after I was done paying, the cherry on top of my day. I went to my room and showered.

I called Citi and this time was not my usual polite self. I explained that it had been four hours, Citi had been the opposite of helpful and I just wanted my points refunded. The representative apologized and said he saw that things had been fixed (thanks to my calls earlier). I explained that I had a flight in eight hours and was done dealing with this stuff. He understood and put me on hold for twenty minutes. I resisted my urge to gain psychic abilities and kill him through the phone. Upon returning, he said he could cancel the flight if I gave him permission. I said of course. He replied that I was still checked in and he couldn’t. I almost snapped. I told him I had done more than my due diligence and it needed to be handled. He offered to call the airline for me. I was dumbfounded that the other three representatives couldn’t do that. He offered to call me back in twenty minutes with my options. I told him I would be asleep. I told him I wanted the points and wouldn’t be dealing with anymore phone calls. I still have to call Citi and handle the initial flight and inform them of the nightmare their customer service had been.

The Road to Peace

*Gently cries*

I woke up in the morning before my alarm. The earliest shuttle was full, so I grabbed a taxi. I got to the airport to find out that my second flight was unable to be checked in. I called the airline again and asked them to settle it. They told me that I had to wait until the layover airport to fix it. A supervisor at the Bangkok airport offered to fix it if I could show her all the necessary documents. Finally, a helpful person. Flights settled, I headed to my gate. It took me about forty five minutes to get through security and passport control this time. I spent the rest of my baht on two slices of pizza, a muffin and a coke zero. The simple comforts. SriLankan Airlines had a good selection of movies on the flight, so that occupied me. At the layover airport, I drank a milkshake while waiting for my two hour layover.

Upon arriving in Delhi, I needed to get the money out for my yoga tuition. The ATMs only let me take out one hundred and fifty dollars at a time and there was a line, so I grabbed a chunk to cover my taxi and some extra. The ashram had booked me a taxi and told me where to meet them so I headed there. Twenty minutes of waiting and no replies to my messages and I began to worry. Finally, they called. He would arrive in ten minutes. I thought the ride would be five hours but he informed me it would be seven. I planned to sleep in the backseat but as we got to the car, he opened the front seat for me. I felt bad telling him I wanted to go in the back so I sat in the front.

The roads in India are not the best maintained, there were limited lights and its similarly aggressive to Thailand, but with mostly cars as opposed to motorbikes. I pulled my buff over my eyes and put headphones on. Every time I woke up, it was to oncoming headlights, which was unsettling. Gas stations in India require you to fully get out of the car, so that didn’t help either. We made a pit stop at the driver’s home for me to meet his family and have some chai tea, which I appreciated but at this point, I had no interest in being social. We got back in the car.

Gas stations in India are wild

Two hours left, I fell back asleep. I woke up with around an hour left and the driver informed me how tired he was. Yikes. I did my best to hold an interesting conversation. Asking him about himself and asking him to teach me some Hindi. He got me to Rishikesh and informed me that cars can’t cros the bridges over the Ganga river so he would have to go around or the ashram could get me. He got me to the bridge and someone from the ashram picked me up on a motorbike. As he rode through narrow passages and over crushed bricks, I acknowledge that I am not the lightest person and hopped off or pushed off walls whenever we would get stuck. He got me to the ashram. It as 2am and he informed me I could check in in the morning. The days start at 5:30am but lucky for me, the orientation day started with breakfast at 9am. I had booked a shared room but he took me to a private room. I decided to deal with that in the morning and passed out.

That’s the end of the story of the journey to Rishikesh. For the next month, I will be living in an ashram, learning about yoga. This will include learning Hatha and Ashtanga Yoga, as well as meditation, mantras and other aspects relating to the topic. It also includes a yogic diet, much to my dismay. I can get meat in the town but am dedicated to trying to follow the experience as it is presented to me. I will write one big blog post about the whole experience, but intend to get back to the weekly schedule, so I will write some extraneous posts in the next two weeks. Feel free to message me if there is a topic you want discussed or I will write about some other travel related things that never make it in to these.

Goodbye, Vietnam: March 14th – March 20th

Ryan grabs breakfast without me, so I head up to the hostels free breakfast alone. I see one of the guys from our tour, so I join him. He is a young Ukrainian who grew up in Israel. He tells me he hits all the movie theaters when he travels, so we bond immediately. I mention we are going to the Crazy House, so he offers to join us.

Crazier Than The Crazy House

We decide to make the short fifteen minute walk to the famous Crazy House in Dalat instead of riding there. Kostya shows us a cheap spot to grab pizza and other things and we continue to the house. As we are all walking, we hear a cracking noise from the street and come to a stop in unison. A taxi van goes spinning into a concrete pole and bounces off of it back into the street as three bikes burst into plastic pieces and their riders go flying. This is not the first accident I have been feet from in my life and Kostya had just finished his Israeli military time, so the drill is pretty basic. Call for medical help and make sure no one moves anyone involved in the accident. This is easy if you know the emergency contact number and all of the people involved speak your language. Kostya tries to tell them not to move any of the people, but the crowd of Vietnamese ignore the English. We make sure no one needs help that we could provide and continue walking. The Vietnamese rarity of wearing a full helmet is on full display as we see some of the resulting aftermath of the accident. Talking to our hostel owner later, we find out that another car had been driven by someone high from marijuana and swerved into the wrong lane, causing the bikers to swerve in front of the van and causing the chaos. We also found out that high drivers have caused several traffic deaths in the past few months at red lights. Luckily, this post will go out once we are done riding in Vie

The concrete pole after the accident

We arrive at the Crazy House, made by the designer of the Maze Bar. The Vietnamese woman who created it traveled to Russia to learn about architecture and came back to design these crazy maze like buildings. This one is a hotel and rooms are spread out throughout the maze. The price is a bit exorbitant but it is only two dollars to walk through, so we check it out.

The roof of the crazy house

On the way back, we hit the pizza place and smash a ton of delicious food for the lowest prices we have seen in Dalat. Kostya and I hit the gym after and I am joyful to be sore. The three of us decide to hit a gaming cafe for a few hours since we are tired and pay twenty cents an hour to game. Life is good.

The Silver Lining

Our plan for the day is to eat breakfast, check out and take off to the coast at La Gi. We eat and check out. My bike refuses to start. The mechanic is about fifty meters from the hostel, so I walk it over. They unscrew the side plate and show me that the fuel valve is shut off and chastize me for it. I acknowledge that it was closed, but I don’t have a screwdriver and only rode the bike the fifty meters to the hostel, so I don’t know how that happened. We load up our bags and take off. A few minutes later, in the middle of an intersection, my bike dies again. I thank a higher power for powerful legs and push my way out of the intersection. Ignoring my current state of rage and still without a screwdriver, I pull the side plate open enough for my hand to squeeze through. I reach in, flip the fuel valve and pull my now bleeding hand out. I start the bike back up and take off back to the mechanic. It dies again in the middle of a busy roundabout. More cuts on my fingers, we arrive at the mechanic.

Conversing in a language you don’t speak is hard, but hand signals cover most of the things you say in basic interactions. Most things are universal. Google Translate does a decent job of covering things harder than that. Conveying complex thought is unfortunately still not easy. Trying to explain that this never happened before they touched my bike and now when I am riding it dies and I have to flip the fuel valve is not the easiest thing I have ever done. I regret not spending more time playing charades. Finally they get the idea and I ask them to fix what they broke. They explain that the fuel valve “has wear and tear” and wire the fuel valve open. Wiring things does not make me the most comfortable. I demand a screwdriver and we head off.

Ryan and I decide not to risk it and hit another mechanic to have it fixed correctly. I hit a Yamaha dealership and they tell me that the bike is too old for them to service. I just ask them to look, as that is a basic part of a bike. The mechanic sees the wire, laughs and immediately shuts the bike. They point me to another mechanic. I call Mr.Phung in Hanoi and have him talk to the mechanic who tells him that he is too busy. We hit four more mechanics, who are all either too busy or just wave me off without talking at all. At this point, my frustration is to the point where I just want to sell the bike on the spot and take a bus to Saigon. We stop and get some pizza and I do some research.

Mr.Phung says it should be good to ride, and worst case, my bike just dies and I just stay conscious not to aggressive pass anyone in case it dies out. I open the bike and secure the wiring job the young mechanics had done. They have a lot of experience, but I am sure a physics lesson would do them some good. We have burned a few hours now and won’t make the full ride, but we can at least knock out the two hours of horrible highway driving.

We ride for an hour and I stop to check the valve, it is slightly shut. I look and it has been wired to the air intake, which is not bolted into the bike and is just bouncing around. I contact Mr.Phung and he explains that that is fine and you could ride without an air intake. I explain that since it is wired to the valve, it would be better if it couldn’t move since the tension is what is keeping the valve open. He agrees to explain to a mechanic when we find one.

We finish another hour of riding and hit the town we will be staying in. I hit a mechanic and show him what I want done. He laughs and says it is okay, because he knows that it doesn’t matter if it bounces around. Then he points at the wires and shakes his head no. At this point, I’d just prefer a socket so I could do it myself but that doesn’t work. The next part is the most confusing and happened with a few mechanics earlier in Dalat. I called Mr.Phung and tried to hand the mechanic the phone. He repeatedly stared at the screen in confusion while I motioned to him for him to put it up to his ear while saying “Vietnamese” in Vietnamese. He hit the end call button and handed me back the phone, as if Vietnamese mechanics are scared to talk on the phone. I have Mr.Phung message me the sentence to show them and we head off.

We find another mechanic and show them the sentence. They immediately start unscrewing the air intake. The message must not have fully conveyed what needed to be done so I start showing them. They grab some wire (they all love wire) and secure part of air intake that had cracked, allowing it to be secured to the bike correctly. We ride down the street and find some dinner and a hotel.

Clear Mind, Happy Thoughts

The bike broke down one more time, but this time I had been expecting it. It died the same way it had been dying before, but now I knew the immediate solution. The bike was back up and running in a minute. So either the fuel line was dirty and the dirt was just barely keeping the fuel valve open or it wasn’t fully broken yet and closing it to clean the lines finally killed the valve. Now I knew the issue, we had eight hours left of riding total and I didn’t have to worry about if my bike would die for good. With this, I would be able to sell the bike to another backpacker with a clear conscience, which only made me sad because I knew a mechanic wouldn’t give me anything for it, so I was just going to push it into the ocean, because I thought that experience would be worth more to me than whatever a mechanic would give me. We head off through the mountains and the ride is smooth. Winding up and down mountainous curves is again fun with my bike working and we are surrounded by beautiful views.

Rows of dragonfruit trees

Suspension bridge to even more dragonfruit trees.

Two hours of mountains and we hit rows of dragonfruit trees and salt fields. We hit a cool suspension bridge and take off down the road. A short ride and we hit Coco Beach Camp, a beach bar where they have camp sites for travelers. One more hour and we hit Ho Tram Beach.

The sun setting over the dunes of Ho Tram beach

Part of Ho Tram each is covered in MGM Grand and Ramada, an attempt to make a mini Vegas strip. We find a hotel and head to the beach to pepper. The sand is nice but the sun goes down too fast and we end up peppering in front of a restaurant to use their light. We hit some restaurants where they stare at us like zoo animals before finding a small one. The waiter walks over with Google Translate out, the first time this has happened in the three weeks we have been in Vietnam. He takes our order and takes off on his motorbike to get ingredients. We tip him for the extra work and head home.

Goodbye, Old Friend

Personal space does not exist on the roads of Vietnam

We have a three hour ride to Saigon, our last destination of the trip. I have been growing a beard since the trip started, and decided I have had enough. I pull my bike into a little patch of woods and trim the beard down to my usual scruff. Two hours of riding and we hit the chaos that comes with the Cat Lai Ferry. The usual route people take is to hit the highway into Saigon, but we decide to make like locals and take a ferry across the river into the city. As we enter the city, we see what looks like a Vietnamese Chicago, not what either of us were expecting.

Goodbye, Battlecat

We had originally planned on selling our bikes for what we paid for them and then throwing in the nice helmets for free. Looking through the actual market for people selling their bikes, this looks like it would require some work on our part, which is why we gave ourselves a few days. I weigh the pros and cons of getting that extra money, and decide I would rather sell the bike for cheaper and get rid of it immediately. We post the bikes for forty percent less than we paid and throw in the helmet for free. Within a few hours, we have buyers. We wake up, take the bikes for an oil change and run the girls buying the bikes through everything with the bikes. My disdain for the bike has faded and I am sad to see it go. It broke down a lot, but it took me over fifteen hundred miles. We say goodbye and hit some sights.

One of many American vehicles at the Ho Chi Minh War Museum

A picture on the second floor of the war museum

The sights in Saigon are your normal toursit sites, besides the Ho Chi Minh War Museum. That thing where I said Vietnam was the first time I have felt awkward about being American? It got a whole lot worse in this museum. The museum is surrounded by US Military vehicles and the outside has a replication of the prison conditions the Vietnamese were kept it. The first floor is dedicated to other countries protesting America being in Vietnam. The second floor contained weapons and tactics used by Americans. Third was the facts and effects of Agent Orange and the fourth was just a floor of statistics. I would say my intelligence served me well and I learned a lot in school, having a good memory of most of the things that I was taught. Most of the things I learned in the museum, I definitely did not learn in American schools (and I was also conscious that there is a high chance of bias from both sides). A quick chat with my Dad about it, and I decide that is enough history for one day.

My dream gym

I head down the street from my hostel to a gym labeled “MMA Gym” with a rock climbing wall up the outside. I walk in, receiving the normal zoo animal stare. The day price is three American dollars and the gym is five floors of rock climbing walls, ninja warrior obstacles, heavy bags, and standard weight room equipment. My dream gym with a top balcony overlooking the city. A workout with no fans or air conditioning and I hit the hostel to shower.

Wanting to be more presentable for our volleyball camp, I hit up a place to get a back wax, my first professional one ever. It went well before I realized the hostel room’s air conditioning was broken and I would spend all night sweating. I woke up with my back completely broken out. The price of vanity is steep. I book a hotel room closer to the airport and spend the day watching movies in air conditioning before heading to a gaming cafe for a bit.

Our last day in Vietnam, but I am still caring for my back. Grabbed some breakfast and wrote this blog post(meta) while watching some Netflix. New content is released for Apex Legends, so Ryan and I plan to hit a gaming cafe and play that for a good amount of the day, since neither of us will be playing for the next few weeks.

Next, we will make our way back to Koh Phangan for the training camp and to meet up with Aaron. We will relax on the island before Ryan heads home and I head to India!

Using Up My Bad Luck: March 7th – March 13th

Ryan wakes up early for once and heads to volleyball. I decline to do some yoga but am woken back up telling me that there aren’t enough people to play and I have to go. I walk the ten minutes to play and it’s about as good as I imagined. I guess we could use the ball touches before we embarass ourselves in front of Olympians. We grab some breakfast at a place filled with ex pats working on laptops and the waitress is overly impressed at me knowing how to say “noodles with beef” in Vietnamese, which makes me sad about tourism. Off to Hoi An we go.

Fairy Tale Town

This blurry picture is all I got of the beautiful canals of Hoi An.

Hoi An resembles a town in an old fairy tale or a Zelda game. Filled with a ton of shops all identical to each other, like someone designed one and just copy and pasted. It’s all restaurants, souvenir shops and tailors. This is the town to get a suit made for under a hundred dollars and in twenty four hours. As enticing as that sounds, we opt out of lugging suits around on our bikes. We roam the streets and look at all of the tourist spots from the outside. Hoi An missed the memo on tourists wanting pictures of things. The good pictures of the outside are free, but the walk through the things costs money. Easy enough. We sign up for a cooking class and opt for some rest before getting up early for the class.

Ryan confirms he wants to stay vegetarian.

The ferry to the kitchen.

The course begins with a walk through a market and a talk through each of the ingredients, much like our class in Thailand. We take the ingredients on a ferry and ride forty five minutes to the kitchen. When we arrived, we were shown how to grind rice milk which would be used for the batter. Each of us get a burner and are run through making spring rolls, banh xeo (Vietnamese pancakes), beef noodle salad and Pho. Ryan got to learn the vegetarian versions of each and his soup broth was actually a bit tastier. At the end, we all received recipe books and chopsticks to take home. We were given Vietnamese straw hats to wear and put in boats to row back to the van. The woman in the other boat suggested a race, but Ryan and I were in the same boat, so that victory was guaranteed.

Presentation unfortunately does not add to taste.

We are rewarded with the fruits of our labor and passionfruit juice.

After the cooking class, we roamed the streets a bit and each grabbed a knockoff Nike DriFit tshirt for three dollars. I regret not grabbing another because it has proven perfect for the Vietnam heat. From there we took our bikes to a mechanic suggested to us by the man we bought the bikes from in Hanoi. When we arrived, he saw the sticker on our bikes and told us that was his brother. He tightened all of the things we needed and checked our bikes for free. When we offered to buy him food or beer, he hugged us and said goodbye.

From Bad to Worse

My bike was running well. After the cooking class, our next destination was Qui Nhon. This was about a eight hour ride, so we figured we could knock off two or three hours and finish the ride in the morning. Vietnam is filled with random hotels that all basically contain a double sized bed, a bathroom and a tv for about nine dollars a night, so finding a place to crash for the night is always easy. As usual, we took a route that kept us off of the highways and this time it took us down a picturesque dirt road. The bumps in this road were actually remniscent of our time riding in the mountains of Laos.

The roads in Vietnam pale in comparison to the treacherous roads we tackled in Laos. However, our motorbikes are also much less capable than the ones we had in Laos. Not to mention that my luck has been pretty much non existent since leaving the life of paradise that was my week on Koh Phangan. What all of this is basically preparing me to say is this: things kept getting worse. I found a line where the bumps seemed manageable and drove at a slow speed. Upon clearing a large hole, I felt my bag against my back. The bags are secured with three bungees, so their ability to move at all is pretty much non existent. I stopped my bike to see if my bungees had snapped and could feel that they were all in place. I lifted on the bag and the entire rack moved. The rack was bolted to the rack piece of the bike and that had snapped on both sides. I began to laugh out loud as I threw my bag where Ryan’s feet go on his bike and strapped my broken rack to the back of Ryan’s bike. I could see that my rack had previously been welded and the rack broke on the weld lines. Vietnamese children were pointing and laughing. Oh well, Ryan gets to carry my stuff until the next town so we can find someone to weld.

Ryan gets my rack and bag for free.

*WARNING : Mom’s please skip this paragraph *
Shortly after the bag breaking, we hit a narrow bridge over a wide river with people walking across it. Someone was slowly moving their motorbike down the bridge. Ryan and I agreed to push on. The bridge was about as wide as my shoulder, with some barrier poles every few feet. There was a gap between the poles and the bridge, which looked like enough for a motorbike to fall through on either side. As I began to move forward, I remembered how hard the motorbikes are to control at slow speed. The pieces of bridge were not all in line, so you had to navigate bumps as well. This anxiety inducing bridge went on for what seemed like forever. As I reached the part of the bridge that raises for boats, the barrier poles disappeared and there were some screw like poles rising up from the bridge about shoulder width apart. My handle bar clips one of the poles and I shoot a hand out to stop from shooting off into the river. I park the bike and walk back down the bridge to a visibly shaken Ryan. He also almost slipped off the bridge, but with both of our bags. I help pull his extra wide bike through the screw poles and we get off of that nightmare bridge.

If you look close, you can see Ryan on the other end of this horrifying bridge.

We roam the city looking for someone to weld my rack. Not only is finding someone who can weld a difficult task, but getting them to understand what I need is a second difficult task. We find someone who can weld but not until the morning. We hit a few more mechanics who wave us on. We find one that is actively welding and ask. They make a confused face at me and then shake their head yes,. The woman walks away and comes back with a new rack. Duh. We don’t need to weld it, we can just replace it. Making practical solutions under duress is not a strong suit. She motions that it does not have a rack like mine and I tell her it is okay. She puts a hole in the new rack and adds the full back rack. All of this for a few dollars. Easy peasy, we head another hour while the sun is up and find a hotel to sleep in.

We find a hotel on the highway and drop off our stuff. We walk down the highway in the dark to find some dinners and everyone looks at us like we’re zoo animals again. We decide we won’t find anywhere to serve us and hit a minimart. A twelve pack of ChocoPies, two bags of chips and two one point five liter bottles all for three American dollars. The hotel room has Netflix on the television, a rarity in Vietnamese hotels. We smash chocopies and binge watch movies for a few hours. All is right in the world.

Three dollars goes a lot further in rural Vietnam than anywhere USA.

The Myrtle Beach of Vietnam

The ride to Qui Nhon was supposed to take us fifteen hours of mountain roads from Hoi An, but we opted to do half mountain roads and half horrible highway to drop it down to eight hours. We finish the few hours of beautiful mountain roads and soaking in the views and hit the highway. The highway is hot and boring and trucks flight past as you ride the shoulder. This part of the highway was especially bad because the terrain was flat on either side with mountains surrounding. This caused the winding to come in hard across the highway. Driving down this highway required you to lean into the wind, the same way you would if you were turning. Not only is this terrifying as you feel your tires slide around, but when trucks pass you, they block the wind and create their own draft. This requires a lot of focus and induces a good amount of anxiety.

There is no argument about Vietnam’s beauty.

I usually ride in front because my bike is more likely to die and I don’t trust Ryan to pay attention and stop in a reasonable amount of time. I’m a little more neurotic so I check my mirrors all the time. Usually unnecessary but this day, I happened to be looking back at Ryan as the whole front cover of his bike popped off on the highway and exploded on the ground. He grabbed it and we taped it back on. Standard Ryan luck, everything still works but the headlight cover was broken. On we go.

We underestimated the riding time and ran into the night time. We raced the sun to get out of the mountains before it got too dark. By the time it got dark this time, we were in a somewhat civilized area. Shortly after, we hit a stretch of well lit highway and then brightly lit hotels and monuments. We turn off the main road and find our American Rock and Roll hostel. We are welcomed with a beer, which neither of us particularly want, but the gesture is nice enough. We grab some way too big burgers and head out.

We walk down the main road to check out the monuments and city square. We find a large carnival and walk past to find paths filled with small children riding bicycles with bluetooth speakers attached. As we continue, we find a large square filled to the brim with children and teenagers riding motorized vehicles. We keep walking to find that there are a myriad of riding options and they all seem to be free. We chuckle about the lawsuit that would ensue if something similar existed in the states and continued down the street. Outside of the hostel, we were the only Westerners. This was confirmed by the fact that every restaurant we passed, every head in the building whipped around to look at us. We have enough of being zoo animals and head to sleep.

This is only a fraction of what the children can use for free.

We head up a mountain for a beautiful view of the city and the coast and then head back to the hostel to escape the heat. We get oil changes and go looking for haircuts. We find a barbershop and they are ecstatic to have us.

Qui Nhon city and coast views from the mountain.

They offer us a price of fifty thousand dong as the woman in the shop runs up yelling “One hundred, Vietnam!”. We give them the “We know you’re overcharging us for being white” face and they agree to fifty. We sit down and then pretend to cut our hair while other people in the shop take pictures. The guy cutting my hair seems to be the owner and is doing a lot of flourishes, clipping the scissors and tapping things. Ryan’s guy gives him exactly what he wants, my guy basically ignores the picture I showed him. Following the haircut, he asks if I want my cheeks straight razored. I mistakenly agree. A female employee begins straight razoring my cheeks. She begins grabbing my biceps and saying “Massage?”. I laugh and say no. She continues to ask adding “Please”, “Boom boom” and “sucking boom boom” to the proposition. Nope. I am ready for this to be over. After about five minutes, the owner returns.

He returns with a handful of metal tools and a light. He turns my head and puts one of the tools in my ear. He begins pulling out earwax. This is likely the cleanest my ears will ever be. Afterwards, he razors inside. This is too close to my eardrum, I can hear it. Not a fan. Then one of the other employees begins using a deep massager from the eighties on my head, arms and legs. There is a reason they switched from hard plastic to rubber. It was brutal and he was going over the bones in my hands. Fearing that the language barrier would cause more issues, I just dealt with it instead of saying anything. After the haircut, the owner offered a massage from another female employee. Nope. He offers one to Ryan, Ryan loves massages. I say no for him and walk out.

We head to the beach to pepper. The wind is wild and we fly wildly around picking up the ball. We are the only Westerners on the beach so we have an audience. We run some diving drills. A local walks up and motions that he wants to play. We don’t know how to convey no to him, so he peppers with us. He can bump in a desired direction, so it’s good enough. He gets tired and leaves and we continue. Another younger local comes up and speaks decent English. He is in jeans and tells us he hasn’t played in a while. This is never a good sign. We begin and he has much less control than the first local. He was sending the ball wildly around, which makes good practice for diving after unpredictable balls. He alternates between getting tired and watching and sending us running for balls. After a bit, we decide it’s time for dinner and head home.

Easy entertainment.

Oh, The Places You’ll Go

Our ride from Qui Nhon to Nha Trang was some of my favorite riding we have done so far. The coastal road near Vung Ro Bay had ocean to one side and mountain on the other. I personally think it is much better than Hai Van Pass, but Top Gear didn’t go there so nobody knows about it. We grabbed some pictures and a snack near the lighthouse of the bay and took off. We rode all the way down the Hon Gom Peninsula to get some cool shots of the view and then finished the ride to Nha Trang. Otherwise, the riding was uneventful, but here’s some pictures.

The view from my favorite road in Vietnam. This spot overlooks Vung Ro Bay and its lighthouse.

Ryan snaps a picture of the view at Hon Gom Peninsula.

Nha Trang is just a touristy coast city with a beach. As with all the developed beach towns in the Southern part of Southeast Asia, it is filled with Russians. Again, all the signs are in Russian. Everything is expensive and touristy. We grab a ton of Indian food and Ryan heads home to do some work. I head to the mall to see Captain Marvel. Six dollars American for a movie ticket, cup of Coke Zero, bag of M&Ms and a small blizzard. Life is not bad.

The following day we hear about police traps confiscating foreigners motorbikes in tourist areas of Southern Vietnam and change our plan of going to Mui Ne, where the most famous trap is. As we learn this, we grab breakfast and see someone have their bike confiscated with our own eyes. Time to get out of dodge.

Stressed Out

The ride from Nha Trang to Dalat offers a pass more treacherous than Hai Van Pass and I am excited. My bike is not as excited. We have come to the conclusion that some part of my fuel system is dirty and that is what is causing the issues. It breaks down again. I begin the cycle of moving it and letting it sit and trying to get it started that has worked the previous few times it has broken down. We are sitting in the sun in the middle of the highway. A local comes and tries to get me to follow him to a shop, he is not grasping that the bike won’t start. Again, he uses his foot to transport me a few kilometers to a shop. I try to explain to him that the fuel system needs cleaned, but he runs the bike and exclaims that the spark plug needs replaced. I replaced it a while ago but he seems confident. He also replaces the spark plug cover that is cracked. He then takes us to another shop and adds transmission oil, which the bike had none of. We are still in the middle of nowhere, so at the end, he offers me some exorbitant prices and I haggled a bit. I knock off a small bit, but still end up paying way more than I would if I wasn’t stranded in the middle of nowhere. We see a gas station but decide to wait for the next one.

The treacherous mountain starts immediately and as we get into the clouds, the bike breaks down again. I am not pleased. Actually, I am the opposite of pleased. I get it going again and it is crawling. If we can make it to downhill, I am okay. The road continues uphill at a good incline for twenty nine kilometers. We are far above the clouds. I am very displeased.

The first set of mountains on the path to Dalat.

We finally make it to the downhill part and my bike runs out of gas, or dies, or both. I am not sure. We find some gas at a nearby shop and I get it going. We finish the ride to Dalat and grab some dinner.

We sign up for a tour at our hostel, which we haven’t done since probably Thailand, and I find a mechanic to take my bike before the tour. I wake up at 7am to take it to the mechanic and am waved off by three mechanics. I finally find one by the hostel that will do the fuel system cleaning for much cheaper than the guy who didn’t fix anything. I head back to go on the tour.

Tourist Time

I paid a bit more to rent one of their bikes while mine is in the shop and Ryan takes his. The bike I get has some weak brakes and no mirrors. I miss my broken bike. We head off in a group and the guides show us some cool views.

One of many cool views to start our tour.

We are taken to a small village called chicken village and see some locals working. I don’t take pictures of locals when I am traveling because it seems invasive. Tour guides always offer this, but it’s not for me. Some local kids come and playfully mock our English before we head off.

We got to see how mushrooms are grown in the villages, as well as how rice noodles are made. Then we headed to the famous waterfalls of Dalat. They are good for some pictures but you can’t go in the water so it’s not ideal.

The picturesque waterfalls of Dalat.

The early stages of a rice noodle.

Next stop, we see how incense are made. I am amazing by the precise work done by hand. Each bundle is made into a hexagon by hand, and it is oddly satisfying. One more and we see how silk is made. There are baskets filled with cocoons and machines for boiling them and pulling the silk threads. We are told each cocoon contains about a kilometer of silk thread.

Hand made sets of incense.

One of many baskets filled with cocoons.

The Elephant falls make our next stop. We walk down some paths that are surrounded by some wacky railings that almost make it more dangerous. Tourists make horrible decisions on when to pass others and when to stop and make it even more dangerous. The water is dirt brown, so swimming is definitely out. We grab pictures and head to the pagoda next door to check out some work they are doing on a very large statue.

The giant statue in progress. Those are full sized humans working all over it.

Rice wine and weasel coffee fill our next destination. We see the entire process of rice wine being made and get to try some. The liquid is almost hot, which really brings out the alcohol taste. We then see tons of containers of rice wine filled with snakes and other animals, which apparently can make it more potent. We try some weasel coffee, which is made by feeding weasels coffee beans and then using the beans they poop out. Gross, but supposedly it is very popular coffee. We try it, and I think it tastes like poop. In its defense, I think all coffee tastes like poop, but I wanted to be able to say I tried it. I toss a bunch of condensed milk in and then it’s perfect. Across the street, we find a restaurant serving cricket. We see the insane number of crickets they have and the guide orders two plates. With just toothpicks and vietnamese sweet and sour sauce, we make the crickets disappear and wash it down with rice wine.

Rice wine with cobra.

Drip weasel coffee, a delicacy, I guess.

It starts to rain, but we endure to hit a flower garden and see some more views. This concludes our day as tourists so we head home. The hostel holds a family dinner of Vietnamese noodle soup and I head to the gym next door. Vietnamese gyms are usually filled to the brim and there is a general sense of chaos with everyone just using things and leaving them wherever. Workout done, time to socialize.

Our final view of the tour.

We head to the Maze Bar, a five story bar that is filled with a maze. Each floor is filled with tunnels and stairs randomly leading you around. The front part of each floor contains a bar area, so we hop in and I lose Ryan almost immediately. We end up finding people from the hostel and hanging out with them. They tell us they are going to another bar to get a free shot for staying at our hostel and we agree to join. This bar is standard party backpacker haven. Drunk Westerners sucking Nitrous Oxide out of balloons. We ask a few and none of them seem to know why it makes them feel the way it does. For the uninformed, it is the same as Whip-Its in the states. None of them know they are inducing brain damage. Awesome. We head home.

The tiny corridors of Maze Bar.

We stay in Dalat two more days before heading to the coast and then Ho Chi Minh City to sell our bikes and head back to Thailand!